what do you guys think about this as a simple outside plug

[yycwrangler]

will eventually install a proper electrical system but for now just want some ability of we camp at a site with poor. I was thinking of getting two of these. One to run directly to a window AC and the other an extension cord to the galley area with a power block for coffees and blenders etc
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009ANV81S?ref ... e_304_dt_1

Thoughts?

Al

[lfhoward]

It has a 13 amp max, so be sure you don't overload the system. It will probably run a small air conditioner or the appliances in your galley but not at the same time. Not a bad minimalist idea though if you keep that in mind. You could have a power strip on it for some basic surge protection too.

[working on it]

will eventually install a proper electrical system but for now just want some ability of we camp at a site with poor. I was thinking of getting two of these. One to run directly to a window AC and the other an extension cord to the galley area with a power block for coffees and blenders etc
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009ANV81S?ref ... e_304_dt_1

Thoughts?

Al

Why get two? If you're going to use a 120vac extension cord to furnish you with outside power, why get two Noco plug sets, when you can use just one Taymac Weatherproof when-in-use expandable entry port cover. I use a single 120vac extension cord (either a 16 gauge or 14 gauge) because of my low power requirements (my A/C runs at <5 amps), run thru my galley wall. I keeps the cord end completely dry, even under monsoon conditions (Beaver's Bend '15), and can even seal when I used it for two cords at a time (one in, and one out). I bought mine for under $8 at Home Depot.

[low277]

I agree that it should work if you use it within its 13 amp limit. What are your longer range plans for later? Can you reuse the hole in the wall for a different system or repurpose it for something else?

[yycwrangler]

My plans are eventually to use a progressive dynamics unit and do the whole 9 yards including solar. I think that will be a project for next year, although I did by the PD unit last week via amazon. We're heading off to Moab first week in May but I don't pick up my trailer until the first week in April. This allows me 1 month to do the inside. Lucky for me the windows and vents and inside roof are already in. But insulating and wiring plus building cabinets will take a good portion of my time.

I did think about going to Home Depot and picking up a home outside waterproof unit but the ones I saw were all designed to have me plugging a male into the side of the trailer which can be dangerous as that would be 2 males on the extension cord (one to the trailer and the other to the 30amp plug). Is there an alternative home unit that has the male attached to the outside unit of the trailer just like the expensive twist lock ones. Or maybe I should just swallow my Scottish pride and buy the twist lock ones.

Al

[flboy]

Another way to do it is to put this cheap access panel into the floor under a cabinet or etc. and just run extension cord(s). I'd recommend buying a cord on a reel with a built in 20A or 15A breaker so you protect against overloading. That is very important because you never know what someone may plug in and electrical safety is important. When you get ready to wire it all up permanently, then you can decide what you need and drill holes in the sides. This is what I did with my first CTC and it worked great. At the end of the day, you will have a good reeled extension cord when not using for camping and the access panel is less then $10.00. Mounting this access under the trailer keeps the rain out when using it .. just put it close to an edge where you can just feel for and grab the cord to pull through.


Just a side note... this access panel is also useful if you are in a place where you can divert a little gray water from the sink... :-) A good use for it after you wire up permanently. Just sayin!

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https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-541- ... power+cord

https://www.amazon.com/Alert-Stamping-3 ... th+breaker.

[QueticoBill]

There are other power inlets - plugs - on device straps for mounting in a standard box. Google or search retailer sites for power inlets. Add 20 amps or 15 amps as fits, or weatherproof. A lot of them out there.

[low277]

You can get a " flanged inlet " which is a recessed male plug similar to the male part of the one in your first post link. These are available in different amperage and voltage combinations as well as straight or twist lock. Some have a weatherproof cover as part of the assembly others sell a separate cover.

A " Nema 5-15 " is the 15amp 125 volt AC straight blade unit. It is made by various manufactures.

Some part numbers are common to diffent manufacters, a WP1 is the number of the separate WP cover.

Edit: I couldn't remember the inlet number..... 5278 is the generic number. Eaton, Hubbell & Leviton use this number, they may add a suffix to denote options.

[Ol' D]

I bought one of these,
https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-150BBI ... ower+inlet[/url]

I figure later I might replace it with a 30amp power inlet. There are lots of choices that will work out for you. Good luck.

Dan

[McDave]

Well, I considered piece mealing the electrical and other systems, but decided it would be more efficient to just install complete systems one at a time. I used the WFCO 4955, 30 amp RV inlet and RV Power Cord and purchased a few adapters for the cord to cover whatever may be available at site and gennys. I did however wire in a extension cord to one of my breakers like Don suggested. It's 25' long with multi outlets and comes in very handy, inside and out. I have 120v outlets in galley and cargo area, but need to add 1 at rear inside by ramp and 1 or 2 outside just in case.

McDave