7x7x16 v nose

[Padilen]

The bed seems to be working nicely!

Regarding your HVAC installation, you may have already done this but if not you'll need to supply outside air to the intake vents on the sides and top of the unit.

The thermostat can be relocated. But before you try that, I'd make a deflector to send the cooled air upward. I have a feeling that it is just "looping" back to the return air grill.

If the deflector doesn't cure the situation, then I'd have a go at moving the thermostat. Check the wiring diagram - either in your manual or inside of the case of the window unit - to see how the compressor and fan motor are controlled. If relocating the thermostat requires moving any of the 120 volt A-C wiring, then be sure to discharge the capacitor before doing so. It looks like the membrane button controls are part of the front cover. If so you may have to cut out that portion of the plastic from the front cover.

I'm in the middle of an HVAC install in my teardrop. As part of my "hack" of a window unit, I am removing the controls that came with the unit and changing over to a residential style thermostat. This too is a possibility but is more involved than using the factory thermostat. This thread shows different "hacks" of window units:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=44561

You may want to peruse that to see what is involved on modifying a window unit.

I haven't completely got the bed able to raise and lower yet. I think now that I have more understanding of adding counter weights I will use the garage door springs/pulleys.
.

Seems like a lot have ideas and suggestions but I'm not sure how many actually have made one. Or made one that works without fail, cheap, and safe.
The springs and pulleys work, cheap and rather easy. But not great for safety and care must be used when lifting and lowering. May not be the best but I rather like mine. And I've added a few "safety's". I'd recommend using the spring safety wires. I used them in the lift loft bed I made for my friends. Liked them and added them to mine. I was concerned about them binding, but they don't. I also changed my bottom "stop's" to the Unistrut angle brackets. Lost the use of the "lowest" stop's. But that was a good thing. I had drilled one poorly and had to file it into an oval. This made the pin rattle when getting in or out of bed or rolling over. Now I don't have that rattle.



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[flboy]

I think the holes on the floor are adequate and the AC fan should draw the air in. I have essentially done the same thing, except my intake is on the ceiling.

If you have not already done so, you may want to have a covers for the floor intakes for when traveling, especially on dirt roads. The road film, dust and dirt will destroy your AC over time.

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[Onetype]

I think the holes on the floor are adequate and the AC fan should draw the air in. I have essentially done the same thing, except my intake is on the ceiling.

If you have not already done so, you may want to have a covers for the floor intakes for when traveling, especially on dirt roads. The road film, dust and dirt will destroy your AC over time.

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Appreciate the reply, I've definitely followed your build and liked what I saw.



I've been running it for a week or 2 now, actually I'm almost living in it to be honest. I will definitely be living in it full time once summer is full blown here so I hope it's up to the task. I still need to put some sort of screens or vents over the holes though.

I started on the plumbing the other day, basically just the kitchen faucet since I haven't ordered the water heater yet or started on the shower. Going to do a leak test sometime tonight!

I realize I actually haven't posted many pictures of this thing in it's current stage. It's still pretty much a mess inside with half of it being used for storage and the rest of it still in partial completion stages. I will update this thread for sure before it's all said and done.

[Onetype]

The bed seems to be working nicely!

Regarding your HVAC installation, you may have already done this but if not you'll need to supply outside air to the intake vents on the sides and top of the unit.

The thermostat can be relocated. But before you try that, I'd make a deflector to send the cooled air upward. I have a feeling that it is just "looping" back to the return air grill.

If the deflector doesn't cure the situation, then I'd have a go at moving the thermostat. Check the wiring diagram - either in your manual or inside of the case of the window unit - to see how the compressor and fan motor are controlled. If relocating the thermostat requires moving any of the 120 volt A-C wiring, then be sure to discharge the capacitor before doing so. It looks like the membrane button controls are part of the front cover. If so you may have to cut out that portion of the plastic from the front cover.

I'm in the middle of an HVAC install in my teardrop. As part of my "hack" of a window unit, I am removing the controls that came with the unit and changing over to a residential style thermostat. This too is a possibility but is more involved than using the factory thermostat. This thread shows different "hacks" of window units:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=44561

You may want to peruse that to see what is involved on modifying a window unit.

I haven't completely got the bed able to raise and lower yet. I think now that I have more understanding of adding counter weights I will use the garage door springs/pulleys.
.

Seems like a lot have ideas and suggestions but I'm not sure how many actually have made one. Or made one that works without fail, cheap, and safe.
The springs and pulleys work, cheap and rather easy. But not great for safety and care must be used when lifting and lowering. May not be the best but I rather like mine. And I've added a few "safety's". I'd recommend using the spring safety wires. I used them in the lift loft bed I made for my friends. Liked them and added them to mine. I was concerned about them binding, but they don't. I also changed my bottom "stop's" to the Unistrut angle brackets. Lost the use of the "lowest" stop's. But that was a good thing. I had drilled one poorly and had to file it into an oval. This made the pin rattle when getting in or out of bed or rolling over. Now I don't have that rattle.



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Thanks, I'm unsure of what you mean by spring safety wires. If it isn't too much trouble could you elaborate? I hadn't even thought this setup could pose a safety issue and don't want to take any chances.

[McDave]

I should note that I will be primarily hooked up to well water and as of now I'm not even certain there will be a fresh water tank inside. I would like to be able to carry some water jugs with me and maybe hook them up externally should the need ever arise but feasibly I can't find space inside I'm willing to give up for a water tank.

I have a 25gal fresh tank mounted underneath and just behind the axle. I located it there so the weight of the water could be used as ballast. I knew I was going to mount a generator on the tongue and really tried to plan for proper tongue weight. Worked out great, you can easily add or drain 200lbs aft of the axle to get proper tongue weight.
Well water is generally fine for showers and cleaning. and sometimes drinking, but I've been places where you can smell the water before you even get there... If you have a tank you could at least treat the water for most bio's, or haul city water of better quality.

McDave

[Padilen]

Per the doing safety cable.
It's now recommend by the garage door industry so some springs come with them. But it's just the same or slightly smaller gage cable used to lift the door. The springs can break and they fly around - dangerous if your in the way. So the cable runs down inside the spring O and through something to secure it. The cable is adjusted so it's length is the same as max spring extension. Then if the spring should break it can't fly off, it's force is "caught" by the cable.


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[Onetype]

I should note that I will be primarily hooked up to well water and as of now I'm not even certain there will be a fresh water tank inside. I would like to be able to carry some water jugs with me and maybe hook them up externally should the need ever arise but feasibly I can't find space inside I'm willing to give up for a water tank.

I have a 25gal fresh tank mounted underneath and just behind the axle. I located it there so the weight of the water could be used as ballast. I knew I was going to mount a generator on the tongue and really tried to plan for proper tongue weight. Worked out great, you can easily add or drain 200lbs aft of the axle to get proper tongue weight.
Well water is generally fine for showers and cleaning. and sometimes drinking, but I've been places where you can smell the water before you even get there... If you have a tank you could at least treat the water for most bio's, or haul city water of better quality.

McDave

That does sound like a decent setup. Is your pump attached to the tank? I would more than likely need to get a 120v pump to start off with. I don't plan on having any sort of 12v for some time, if ever. I don't know if this will limit me to certain types of pumps or not, I really haven't looked into it all much.

Ya, the well water I will be hooked up to smells pretty bad. I certainly don't plan on drinking it without some sort of treatment. I was planning on one of those water filters you attach to the hose on the outside but I'm not even sure that will be enough. I've also looked into a reverse osmosis system but again since it has like 5 stages of filtration I need quite a bit of room for it. I have little experience with well water so I'm not too sure whats needed to make it decent.

Per the doing safety cable.
It's now recommend by the garage door industry so some springs come with them. But it's just the same or slightly smaller gage cable used to lift the door. The springs can break and they fly around - dangerous if your in the way. So the cable runs down inside the spring O and through something to secure it. The cable is adjusted so it's length is the same as max spring extension. Then if the spring should break it can't fly off, it's force is "caught" by the cable.


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Awesome, I'll keep that in mind when I get started on that project.

[hankaye]

Onetype, Howdy;

I've lived in many places all over the country. Had the bad smelling (sulpher sented), well water in several.
Fill a glass and let it set for a few minutes the smell generally goes away. Every one that I had tested came
back with good marks from the county health dept.
The biggest problem some wells have (especially in the Southwest), is a high calcium level. will do in a metal valve
or other kind of fixture quickly. Best to get some kind of water conditioner, not a softener a conditioner. Does
the same thing just doesn't make everything feel slippery and hard to get a grip on.

hank

[McDave]

Hey Onetype,
Here's the setup I chose.

Ebay, $109.00 Tank, pump, strainer. It is 12v, but that doesn't have to be a deal breaker. I think you'll find that some way making 12v would be a boon to your overall day to day living in a CT. Most RV items will be 12v, and a lot of compact/ travel size items are as well. I'll have to go back and re read your thread, did you tell us why you will be living this way? Just curious. The point is, if you are going to do this, do it well. Bite the bullet and get set up with at least some of the basics. 12v power, access to good H2o, refrigeration, sanitation, etc. Unless you are trying to torture yourself, this stuff can make a BIG difference in comfort level and standard of living, IMHO.
Most folks in rural settings on well water use RO systems. The ones I have seen are under the sink, but you could mount outside, weather permitting.

McDave

[Padilen]

My Aunt &Uncle, full timed it a Motorhome. They used an old milk crate with their water filtration system mounted to it. Fit in storage compartment right by hookups. Just pull it out and hook up shore to it and it to RV. Easy to change filters and no worries of leaks.


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[Onetype]

Hey Onetype,
Here's the setup I chose.

Ebay, $109.00 Tank, pump, strainer. It is 12v, but that doesn't have to be a deal breaker. I think you'll find that some way making 12v would be a boon to your overall day to day living in a CT. Most RV items will be 12v, and a lot of compact/ travel size items are as well. I'll have to go back and re read your thread, did you tell us why you will be living this way? Just curious. The point is, if you are going to do this, do it well. Bite the bullet and get set up with at least some of the basics. 12v power, access to good H2o, refrigeration, sanitation, etc. Unless you are trying to torture yourself, this stuff can make a BIG difference in comfort level and standard of living, IMHO.
Most folks in rural settings on well water use RO systems. The ones I have seen are under the sink, but you could mount outside, weather permitting.

McDave

I'm not too sure if I mentioned my decision to do this or not. A few years ago My brother was just getting out of the Army and moving back home. His buddy moved down here with him and was staying with us until he could find some land and build on it. We inherited our childhood house, so at that point my future was pretty well set. I should note I live in a city with extremely high costs of living. Anyway due to family circumstances we needed the money and had to sell the house. Since then the 3 of us have been renting knowing we will be splitting ways at some point, that point is this summer. My brother got a school bus extremely cheap at auction to convert into a skoolie. I thought that was a good idea seeing as how I am single but owning a 20,000lb bus comes with its own challenges. So i started seeing CT's and decided that was my best option. I have a buddy who owns 5 acres outside of the city who will let me live on a corner of it with full utilities for $200/mo. Its still close enough I can commute into the city for work each day and that affords me to live without any rommates on some beautiful land. After a year or so I can save up for some property of my own. I sometimes work on projects in remote parts of the state so I could bring the CT with me and save all my per diem.


Basically i've got all the amenities needed to live comfortably in this thing, but I am new to this so there are still some challenges im coming across. I finally built some storage and got it somewhat picked up, i'll put up some recent pics soon.

I am having an issue with humidity since its been cool and raining alot. The A/C isnt needing to run so it's not drawing enough moisture out. I've got some Damp Rid containers but I may end up having to get a dehumidifier for days like this, it was like 75% this morning.

[McDave]

Well alright, that sounds like an adventure. I miss those days, I've been married 23 years now, but that can be an adventure sometimes as well...just sayin'...
I like your plan, a man (person) should get himself a piece of dirt at some point. As you build a financial portfolio, and diversify assets land can be one the more stable investments. And you gotta live somewhere. Just remember, the goal is to own the land, don't let it own you...If you have to borrow and sacrifice your freedom to have it, it may not be time yet.
You current landlords plan makes sense, if you get someone else to pay or help pay the on going expenses like taxes, maintenance etc., ownership is a lot less of a burden.
Well, I wish you the best of luck. Get out there and make it happen, ... ...

McDave

[Onetype]

Well alright, that sounds like an adventure. I miss those days, I've been married 23 years now, but that can be an adventure sometimes as well...just sayin'...
I like your plan, a man (person) should get himself a piece of dirt at some point. As you build a financial portfolio, and diversify assets land can be one the more stable investments. And you gotta live somewhere. Just remember, the goal is to own the land, don't let it own you...If you have to borrow and sacrifice your freedom to have it, it may not be time yet.
You current landlords plan makes sense, if you get someone else to pay or help pay the on going expenses like taxes, maintenance etc., ownership is a lot less of a burden.
Well, I wish you the best of luck. Get out there and make it happen, ... ...

McDave

The hardest part around here is finding land with little to no restrictions. Our roommate got 10 acres last year but there are all sorts of requirements when it comes to what you are allowed to build on the property, store on it etc.. Not to mention just about every road in and out of the city are being tolled now, I would assume they realize most people are starting to commute these days and want some of that $.

Anyway the property I will be living on, the guy is being really smart. He bought a 20x20ish metal building for like $7k and is building a tiny home out of it. Meanwhile he is renting the house already there out to his brothers family for I would assume probably most of his mortgage, and then there is me. So he will be living a good life for the foreseeable future.

Anyway here are some of the recent pics. Still have quite a list of things to get done but for the most part it's starting to take shape.

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[Onetype]

I seem to see quite a few people doing the diamond plate flooring. Is that stuff pretty easy to use, I assume you glue it down? I haven't done the floor yet really because I couldn't decide what to go with. I saw a picture of a school bus where they just put floor varnish down over the OSB, it looked good. I want to keep it somewhat simple and cost effective.

thumbnail_image4.jpg (176.3 KiB) Viewed 3296 times

[McDave]

I have had this for a year, still looks great. easy to install.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-7-5-ft-x ... /205442047

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfIma ... bc2edc.pdf


McDave