Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-Foru

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby onehoser » Sun Feb 25, 2018 10:53 am

i was considering installing a teardrop door in the barn door of my 5x8 v-nose, i have also considered removing the barn door, replace it with plywood and install the teardrop door there. i'm leaning towards the later but i don't think i would be able to get the girlfriends kayak in it (wouldn't break my heart if we left it home once in a while, lol)
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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby CaleyAnn » Sun Feb 25, 2018 11:16 am

onehoser, with your 5x8 you might just get the teardrop door back there. My big problem with my 4 foot wide door in the trailer rear is the big bar handle lock setup. It is in the way. I just have difficulty with this type of work, being unsure I can actually do a modification without ruining the whole trailer. I am now finding out just how daunting my latest idea of a side door is. I just don't have the tools or experience for such a modification.

I wish I could find somewhere on the web a description and photos, or a video of how you install an RV deadbolt, or some kind of deadbolt that I could engage to lock the big cargo trailer door, while the bar hangs down. I could then probably figure a way of installing my door back there. But again, I have the crazy screws holding things together, and cannot find a driver bit to remove them. Until I can remove all the exterior screws, I cannot get rid of the metal stud that blocks the door installation.

Here's how I think I need to do this. First, I need to remove those screws that hold the skin to that stud. I then need to cut out that metal stud. The I can install a wooden framework that the teardrop door will be attached to. I then cut out the skin hole and the interior plywood. After that I should be able to fit the door and install it. But the holdup is how to install that deadbolt, and how to remove those exterior screws holding the skin to the metal stud. The side door idea has exactly the same problem with the screws. I am stumped, and cannot do anything else until I can get that door installed.
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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby onehoser » Sun Feb 25, 2018 11:37 am

this is the type of rv latch i have and that is where i want to install it
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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby CaleyAnn » Sun Feb 25, 2018 11:46 am

onehoser, If the position of all the bar latch parts allow that, then go for it. I thought about this type of handle/lock, but after watching several videos I found they are not very good. So I am going with a deadbolt that also has a latch on the inside, if I need to just open the big door. I just watched a video on how to install a deadbolt in a trailer door. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIxuXv8mQgg for this deadbolt http://amzn.to/28QS9ig
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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby hankaye » Sun Feb 25, 2018 9:56 pm

CaleyAnn, Howdy;

Most (generally speaking), CTs are screwed together using a #2 Robertson tip (Canadian name),
better known here Stateside as a #2 square drive. Left to loosen Right to tighten, but that part
you already know. If you use an electric driver it's generally best to keep it slow and when installing
keep the torque low and finish with a hand held so you don't over tighten or strip out the holes.
Remember, this is supposed to be fun ...

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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby CaleyAnn » Sun Feb 25, 2018 10:14 pm

Hank, Totally big thank you. I know someone had said it was a square drive, but didn't know what size. Now I can go to the hardware store to get these, without spending extra by trial and error.

I can also get my 1 inch and 2 1/8 inch hole saws, so that I can install the deadbolt in my rear trailer door. Yes, I have switched my thoughts on door location again. I will put the teardrop door right of center in the rear cargo door. I just have to figure out how to keep the bar latch, latched out of the way in such a manner that no one can lock me inside. I will end up moving my bed platform to the other side of the trailer. Once the TD Door is in place, I don't have a lot to do. Run four more power wires, add the sheeting to cover the remainder of the foam insulation, and put down something on the floor to cover the wood paneling.

After all that, the sleeping trailer is basically ready for use, though a lot more work will be needed to pretty it up inside.
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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby hankaye » Mon Feb 26, 2018 9:00 am

CaleyAnn, Howdy;

Some folks have installed another latch lock for the open/unlocked position.
http://parts.trailersplus.com/camlock-e ... -included/

Others have used a simple Eye bolt and drilled a hole in the Bar at the appropriate
location.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3- ... /204273510

I'd go with the eye bolt slightly longer then needed, some flat washers and a nylock nut.
Hack-saw off the excess (leave 3 three threads showing from the nut for security), and
file it smooth to make for pretty and it won't rip something.

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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby CaleyAnn » Mon Feb 26, 2018 3:19 pm

Hank, Been busy this morning. Had to drive 40 mile round trip in order to get a #2 driver. No one in 29 Palms carried them. I also picked up a hand driver of the same type. The screws came out very easy.

Once I got the screws out, and removed the interior paneling and trim, I found that the only way I can install my deadbolt was to remove that latch you just showed, and remove the sheet of steel welded to the frame that these bar latch components use. So the bar latch has been completely removed until I decide if I want to reinstall it.

I also had to remove two pieces of square metal ribs in the center and lower part of the door. But it is now ready for me to install both insulation, and the required pieces of wood that the teardrop door will attach to. I will also probably need a thin sheet of ply to fir things out to the thickness of the rear door framework. That way I can sheet the inside of the door with better plywood than came with the trailer.

I frankly think I will be removing the entire bar latch setup, and just installing both the deadbolt I mentioned, and a regular RV latch set. That way the rear door is latched in three locations, and hopefully won't pop open during travel.

I am also thinking of having someone weld some kind of step to the rear of the trailer below the teardrop door. I am having a heck of a time just climbing into the regular door when it is open. I literally have to crawl inside, then stand up. Any ideas on a step that could work with this trailer?
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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby hankaye » Mon Feb 26, 2018 3:43 pm

CaleyAnn, Howdy;

You can get one of these;
https://www.harborfreight.com/step-stoo ... 62515.html
Good for temporary use or even as a permanent fix. Just haul it in at night
and deploy in the morning.

or

you can get one of these;
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-and-Camper- ... -1100.html

Bear in mind that with the second choice you either need to mount it to the frame wielding
or through the floor with thick bolts. But, there are a multitude of these to pick and sort
through so take your time selecting one.

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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby CaleyAnn » Mon Feb 26, 2018 4:43 pm

Hank, The second one looks great. I already have a two step type, but I am afraid that either someone will steal it, or I will get clutzy, and somehow either miss the step or knock it over as I try to step on it. A fixed one would probably do well for this old biddy.
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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby CaleyAnn » Wed Feb 28, 2018 6:59 am

Yesterday the weather was quite iffy, so all I managed was a trip to Home Depot for what I hope is nearly the last time. I picket up plywood for my bed pallet, anwild thinner ply sheets to go inside the back cargo door against the metal to provide backing for when I have to screw everything together. The problem, as usual was I was unable to find 1/4 inch thick ply for this backing. so the two thin sheets will be glued together to form a sheet just a smidgen over 1/4 inch thick.

I also picked up some 3/4 inch thick foam.

All of this will be put inside the rear cargo door, and then the sheeting on the inside of the door will be installed. Once installed, I can then plot the positions of my deadbolt and RV trailer door handle. I can also plot the pattern of the teardrop door. Once the deadbolt is installed, I can cut out the panel where the teardrop door will go, and install it. Or I hope this is what is going to happen.

For those contemplating installing a deadbolt or RV door handle, be aware that some cargo doors, like mine may have steel plates welded where the bar latch lock hasp is located, and that additional things like square support tubing my be in the way where you want to install those items. I could not rid myself of that 1x1 foot metal support plate for that bar latch, but was able to remove 95 percent of it. I will substitute a block of hardwood in that area where the bar latch was once attached in case I do reinstall the thing, adding aluminum bushings in the hole to beef up the holes for that eventuality.

Hopefully I can get the ply sheet made today, and installed,along with the foam insulation.
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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby CaleyAnn » Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:05 pm

I got the plywood and foam insulation installed in the rear cargo trailer door this morning. What a pain it was cutting. I tried using a steel guide so that my jig saw would cut straight, and somehow it managed to cut jaggedly, and bent my jigsaw blade. When I finally used the jigsaw freehand, I got perfect cuts. Figure that. I think I've got Gremlins fooling with me. :frightened:

I have my deadbolt lock set. Now I just have to get the courage to drill the big holes, and hope I don't goof the process.

I received my "Hounditioner" today. I found it may be a problem installing. It has two sized vent protrusions, a 2 and a 4 inch tube. Unfortunately they are not long enough to go through the cargo trailer wall. I need extensions, probably just two inches. I think that the black ABS pipe couplers might work. Based on my big house A/C, it looks like I will need a support platform on the trailer front to mount this unit, and that platform needs a slight slope backwards to allow for condensation drainage. The unit weighs 22 pounds. It also looks like this is an easy item to pilfer. So I will have to store the A/C unit in the trailer when not in use. Another nice feature is that it only draws 3 amps. Not sure what the peak starting amps are though, but my generator should easily handle this.
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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby John61CT » Wed Feb 28, 2018 10:55 pm

I'm guessing 3A at 120VAC shore power right?

So maybe 35-40A pulled from 12VDC by an inverter when the compressor's running.

If powerful enough to cool the well-insulated space right down so the thermostat cuts in, the temp differential will dictate actual AH per hour average consumption.
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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby CaleyAnn » Wed Feb 28, 2018 11:28 pm

John, I decided to purchase a 2000 watt gas generator for when I need to run something requiring 120 VAC, like this air conditioner. It will keep me cool during the summer when it just gets too hot. Unfortunately the A/C and generator become useless whenever there are other campers, and there are quiet hours required. I'm an ex-18 wheeler trucker, so I am used to the drone of a generator in the background. But I have my fan as backup for the night time.

But I will still run primarily off of batteries using 12 VDC. Anyway, I'm not worried about putting the A/C on except in the heat of the day, so I don't need a huge battery capacity
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Re: Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-

Postby John61CT » Thu Mar 01, 2018 4:21 am

Will depend on solar conditions, how many panels, and how many hours you want to run the aircon.

Is the genny one of the super-quiet inverter type? Some of those can be made more quiet than the aircon unit.
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