Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-Foru

[CaleyAnn]

John, Looks like I have a road trip to make this coming month. I will lug the Exide battery with me, and hope they will adopt it, giving me the "Core Credit" of $18. That way I hope I just have to pay for one core recycle. But after all the fees and taxes, it is going to be about $250+. That will include the connecting cables, and any other hardware I need to make a complete unit.

[John61CT]

Yes, wiring connectors fuses switches etc infrastructure are hard to budget for, can easily be as much all together as the "big ticket"devices needed.

But worth doing right, should be a one-time expense as opposed to consumables like batteries.

[CaleyAnn]

A little more work today, though the frustrating kind. I got the left side ply panel, and associated trim pieces off to expose the trailer studs. The forward bulkhead was going just great until I got to the bottom, where there was a metal plate that runs across the entire bottom, which was held in with star head screws. The star head drivers I had on hand were too big, so off to the local hardware store. A number 15 was thought to be the one, but when I got home, it was too small. I went back and got the next size up, a number 20, and upon trying again, too big. Apparently there are drivers that are somewhere between these two, but where I live they do not carry odd sizes.

So I had to just give up, and take my crowbar, and bend the heck out of that plate until the screws popped. Those that were too stubborn were eventually removed with vise grips. Now I know why there is this plate, and so much caulking there. In each corner, there are big gaps showing daylight. I can only imagine this was the manufacturers fix to keep out water. You figure that if they have been building this trailer for so many years, they would have the corner radii figured out, but apparently not. I will cut some curved corner pieces that will fill the gaps. I will both caulk and screw these in place against the forward bulkhead and the floor. This trailers gaps kind of remind me of when I was a finish carpenter at a yacht building business. I did the bilge pump plumbing and pump, the keep, the deck railing, and basically made sure the interior was finished and spotless. But seeing how many holes there are in these boats ensured I would never purchase a boat, if what I saw was any indication of how most boats are built. No wonder they need a bilge.

Anyway, tomorrow I will continue with adding the insulation until I run out. Then evaluate how much more I need, and go back to Homely Despotty for the remainer.

[CaleyAnn]

I've still been reading and watching videos about electrical systems. One video by Black Top Boondocking talked about the Duracell 6 volt golf cart batteries John mentioned. The video presenter made things much more clear to me, and also brought up some items I wasn't aware of. One thing was having a master fuse between the batteries and the regular fuse box. I'm not sure my 12 volt system needs a master fuse. But if I do, from what this video presented, I should put a 100 amp breaker in.

Apparently I need 4 gauge stranded wire for the wiring between one positive post of battery one, and one negative post on battery two. I also need to run the same type wire to a ground block that is grounded to the chassis of my trailer. The rest of the devices ground wires would terminate there also. I would have the same gauge wire run from the positive terminal with both the 100 amp fuse circuit breaker and the battery shutoff switch to the main circuit breaker panel. From there my positive wires would go from the circuit breaker panels to my electrical devices, all of which have a switch to turn them ON/OFF.

I think I have this electrical thing figured out. Looks like the Marine ON/OFF panel with 5 amp circuit breakers was a waste of money, and will have to see if I can sell the device to get some of my money back.

Anyway, I needed to figure this all out before I get to the point where I will be putting my interior plywood back. Looks like I need more things before I can get to that point.

One thing the Boondocking video also mentioned was another circuit breaker between the solar system and the battery. I'm not sure I will need that. My solar system will be a folding type 120 watt setup, the ACOPower folding 120 watt. It seems to be the most compact, and easiest to use system. I do have to figure out how to plug this solar system into the side of the trailer. Since my two Duracell 6 volt golf cart batteries will be inside, just under my bed, I have to run my wires to some kind of junction box terminal mounted in the wall. The solar system needs to be able to connect to this terminal. I have to research just what kind of terminal is compatible with this particular solar panel, and possibly try to find an adapter cable that I can connect to the existing cable that comes out of the controller that will allow me to connect to that trailer wall terminal.

This whole trailer conversion is just so much fun. It really gets you thinking about just how to make things work.

[McDave]

Hey Caley Ann,
Those crazy screws that were giving you problems are actually a double square style. You will need to use a square bit driver or what the Canadian's call a Robertson bit, #2 I believe. Get the bit that has two sizes, one on each end.. You will be using it often so get a good one.
I say Caley Ann, you don't really sound as if you hail from 29 Palms. Britain or Australia perhaps?

McDave

[hankaye]

CaleyAnn, Howdy;

About the fuse for the 2 6vdc batteries, I just went out and looked at my set-up.
I also have 2 of the duracell 6vdc set-up for my RV (home), what is and has been
working 24/7 for 7 years now and no complaints is a 30 amp fuse hooked into the +
(positive), terminal that the main wire (+), is hooked into the system. I believe that
one shouldn't have a fuse rated higher then the system it is supposed to protect my
RV is a 30 amp system.

I will mention that if you are getting the batteries that require topping off with distilled
water then you will need to install a vent to the outside for the battery compartment
due to the Hydrogen that will off-gas as they are recharged. The batteries with the
glass matting and are touted to be maintenance free (but still need to be checked on
a regular basis), do not require the venting. So, cost and whatever will or could play
into your battery selection. Something you are most likely already aware of, but a reminder
because we all need one once in awhile.

hank

[CaleyAnn]

Hank, You just threw another thing to think about, getting blown up by hydrogen gas. Wonder what else will blow me up. I did a little re-engineering of my front support leg of the trailer. I moved it forward five inches. What this means is I have to crank the leg all the way in, in order to flip it up into the up and traveling position. But that opens up a space of about 16 inches for some kind of battery box. I'm just not sure there is a way to mount a box that will hold the two Duracell 6 volt golf cart AGM batteries and associated electronics. I get the feeling I need to find some kind of support structure that will both bolt to the single trailer tow bar, and the front of the trailer bulkhead. If I can achieve a stable support platform there, I won't have to worry about out gassing of batteries. Any ideas on what I can use to make a battery box support out of. Remember, all I have are electric wood tools, and everyday tools, plus. a few tools for automobiles. My first thoughts are for the "L" type steel shelving supports that have both round and elongated holes. I don't know what the hardware is called, but my friend built a solar battery shelving unit for the local observatory that holds half a dozen batteries out of this, and the nut, washers and bolts needed to put the pieces together.

McDave, No need to worry about those screws now. I used brute force, using a crowbar to remove the metal stripping that the screws were holding in place. That metal stripping went in the trash, as it got bent up really bad. Most of the screws just popped out of their holes in the metal framework, but a few needed coaxing with vise grips. Am I an Aussie or Brit. No, not really, but I have spent time in each country, and many other countries around the world while I was in the U.S. Air Force. I guess I picked up a lot of quirks with language, etc. I', pretty much a world heinz 57 when it comes to nationality, but if you really want to know, I have dual citizenship, U.S. and Canadian. I just live here in 29Stumps, as it's kind of a little warmer than Canada, or many other parts of North America.

I'm back inside after a few hours in the back working on foam insulation. Took me two more hours to finish the other side, the forward bulkhead, and the remainder of the opposite side. Since I am using hard foam insulation with foil covering, I cannot wrap it around corners. I have had to cut strips, and then jam them into the slots that remain. I will be trying to finish the ceiling, and possibly do all the foil taping top secure it all in place. Right now, most of the insulation is so tight, it doesn't need anything to keep it in place, but the foil tape will seal the cracks that I managed to create by my sometimes poor measurements. I will also take a picture when the Sun moves enough not to create glare and shadow contrast.

This foam insulation is very light, and I doubt that I will add more than a couple of pounds to the trailer. I think the electronics and wiring, with the exception of the batteries will not add but maybe 25 pounds. What is going to cost in weight is anything I have to make out of wood.

[CaleyAnn]

Somewhere I lost track of the wiring sizes I will need to purchase. I know I asked in another thread, or even possibly this one and got an answer, but for some reason I just cannot locate the information. So here is what I want to do.

I already will have the required wiring from the folding solar panel kit with controller. The kit takes me all the way to the two Duracell 6 volt 215 amp golf cart AGM batteries. From what I understand, I wire these two batteries in series with 4AWG wire connectors to create a 12 volt battery.

From there I need a wire size to my battery shutoff switch. I also need to know the wire size of the wire from the negative terminal to the trailer chassis ground point and ground terminal distribution block.

From the battery cutoff switch I am guessing I need a 30 amp manual reset fuse. What size wire between those two items, and can anyone recommend a 30 amp manual reset fuse.

OK, progressing from the 30 amp manual reset fuse, what size wire to the regular fuse holder terminal that has the smaller fuses such as 5, 10, 15 and 20 amps.

From the fuse holder, I then go to all my various things like LED lighting, two computer cooling fans that will be controlled with either a built in switch, or I will wire an ON/OFF switch in. What sized wire for these.

I will also have three cigarette socket plug in points so I can plug in my 12 volt Fan-tastic Vent box fan. This replaces the ceiling fan I wanted, but could not have because the ceiling joists are too close together. I will also have a 12 volt TV/DVD that draws very little plugged into one of these also. I will also use a 12 volt heating blanket during the winter that will be plugged in place of a fan unit. The other will be for reading the voltage/amperage of my system so I know what is happening. Everything else will be run off of disposable batteries. That's just about all I will be powering, just basics to try to keep comfortable, and entertained for a few hours a night. Just what size wire do I need for these runs to the lighting, fans, and cigarette sockets.

From what I understand, the negative leads coming off all of these appliances and sockets will be run to that ground terminal distribution block that is grounded to the trailer chassis. I am guessing the ground wires would be the same size as the positive wiring taking the electricity to the devices.

Please bear with me, as I just do not know the proper terminology for most of this. I hope it was at least fairly understandable. Right now I am at the point where I need to run my wires in preparation for drilling holes, installing screws or bolts, and also installing some of the devices. After that, I just need to screw back on my plywood panels. And to this point, I doubt I have added 20 pounds, which would include the insulation, two fans, two LED lights, wiring, fuse and terminal blocks, etc.

I've been thinking of how to make a bed platform. What I have come up with is a 28 x 80 interior no panel door that weighs only 22 pounds. I've worked with these doors before, cutting them down to the size I need. I can cut it down to the length needed, and trim a little off the sides. Since I will have a four inch thick memory foam mattress on top of the door, it should be just fine for a bed platform top. And by the time it is cut down, it should only be about 18 pounds, which is probably half the weight of what I would have to have had using plywood. I can probably use 1 x's to build the storage box framework, and cover that with 1/8 plywood. Just have to use glue and screws to make it stronger.

So, that bed platform with storage may only come in around 40-45 pounds.

The one set of cupboards up front can basically be constructed the same, with the exception of the doors, which would probably need thicker wood for the doors, so they can be latched to hold things inside.

Unfortunately, I can not come up with anything to lessen the battery weight, and the possible platform just ahead of the trailer body. But I have not found a platform that can sit on a single tongue tow bar. I probably don't know what it is called, and therefore unable to call up a picture of it. But I am guessing if there is such a thing, I will have to bolt or strap it to the tow bar, and the ends of that platform will have to be bolted to the trailer bulkhead, to include the plywood on the inside to provide support on those ends. All the platform needs to be is 24 inches long, and about 12 inches wide to hold those two batteries inside their cases, and the control system for the electrical. Anyone help me with a link or at least what I cannot seem to figure out a name for?

If I do seat the batteries there, I will have to counter balance the trailer with the water I need for a week, along with all the other heavy stuff I can come up with, in the rear of the trailer. Those batteries are going to put a lot of weight forward.

Anyway, I did not finish the ceiling foam insulation. I kind of pooped out today, so no pictures either. And it is back to work up at the observatory for me for the next six days doing flood reclamation work and landscaping. Maybe I will get the rest of the foam in sometime this week.

[McDave]

https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/electrical/wiregauge.php
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/dc ... pg.888061/
https://www.windynation.com/jzv/inf/cho ... -wire-size
https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/cam ... -the-wire/

McDave

[hankaye]

CaleyAnn, Howdy;

There are many ways to create an indoor battery compartment with a vent, here's a few
to ponder ...
https://www.google.com/search?q=RV+batt ... 25&bih=710

You strike me as a smart young lady, I'm sure you can it out.

hank

[John61CT]

You are likely to get a better number and quality of responses if you start a separate thread for each category of question, or even for a single question.

Most people scanning a forum aren't willing to read a lot of text at a time, age of Twitter and all.

You can put that single topic in the title of the OP, attracting people who have an interest in that specifically.

Followed by a single very short paragraph with only the details relevant to that issue.

If you want to keep this thread as a "hub" documenting your build, just post links to the "sub-threads" here, even if you also make use of other forums.

Of course, do what you like, just trying to be helpful.

[John61CT]

Regarding sizing wire gauges, for me the best is the Circuit Wizard app from Blue Sea.

[CaleyAnn]

Sorry about being long winded. I tend to ramble, especially when I really am just guessing about things.

Wiring solved. 4AWG from battery to the multiple circuit breaker and the grounding unit. From that point I will use 12AWG, with the exception of the lighting and computer cooling fans, which is probably 16AWG. The wires are pretty thin.

As for venting the batteries, I take this suggestion as a NO towards trying to mount them on the single trailer tow bar (tongue?) The vent is fairly easy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006R5LLLY/_e ... P94C&psc=0 I'd love to have a outside access door with vent that has a lock, and then have a battery sliding tray. It would make installing and removing, as well as maintenance very easy. But I think my trailer is just too small for such fancy stuff. Maybe someday I will have the money for that NIssan Frontier 6 cylinder 4-wheel drive , that can two a much larger trailer. But for now, I have to do with what I have.

Right now I am just going to keep the trailer fairly simple. It will be functional, and that is what is important.

[hankaye]

CaleyAnn, Howdy;

Didn't say it was a NO, however, after looking at a photo of one similar to yours
I say it would be much more difficult getting the balance (side to side), then
just using a plastic tote with one of these http://www.eltororvservice.com/battery- ... nial-white
stuck through your exterior wall and mounted to the tote on the other end.
Be a lot more cost effective as well.
Make the hose removable from the tote and you can slide that around for
servicing. Pick a wall, any wall ... drill, mount, screw and Bobs yer uncle.
Trying to work with ya not trying to tell ya what to do.

hank

[featherliteCT1]

You are likely to get a better number and quality of responses if you start a separate thread for each category of question, or even for a single question.

Most people scanning a forum aren't willing to read a lot of text at a time, age of Twitter and all.

You can put that single topic in the title of the OP, attracting people who have an interest in that specifically.

Followed by a single very short paragraph with only the details relevant to that issue.

If you want to keep this thread as a "hub" documenting your build, just post links to the "sub-threads" here, even if you also make use of other forums.

Of course, do what you like, just trying to be helpful.

Excellent advice. I will try to remember to do this when I post from time to time