Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

looking really good..Now that all the infrastructure and insulation is in, the fun part starts... Finishing off the interior.

CaleyAnn, Howdy;

In responce to your unasked question; " I need to find some kind of rolled rubber padding to install in the
opening to prevent wire chaffing, something like a very flexible rubber tube that is sliced down one side.
That way I just slip it on "
My immediate thought was bicycle inner tubes and zip ties / super glue /rubber cement , whatever ...

hank

CaleyAnn wrote:Turned out to be nice outside, so out to the backyard to work on some of the electrical.

I got my intake and exhaust fan wired, mounted and tested. They are doing what they are supposed to.

I also got the big electrical everything box installed. As I install the new electrical devices, I can now run the wires to this box. Had a heck of a time cutting the four holes for the wires on all four sides. They are really terrible, but then, who will see them but myself. I need to find some kind of rolled rubber padding to install in the opening to prevent wire chaffing, something like a very flexible rubber tube that is sliced down one side. That way I just slip it on

Everything like my Television and other types of entertainment equipment will go up on the forward bulkhead like I placed the electrical box.

Possibly split loom tubing? Available in many diameters. http://m.cabletiesandmore.com/product-i ... foot-2926#

The hole saw is what almost destroyed the side of the box. The plastic doesn't like high speed cutting. I have two more holes to cut. One long for the 120 volt power strip, and another round for the cigarette lighter socket. I'll do what I did for the panel. I first drew the hole pattern, then used an X-acto knife to cut initial grooves. I then used a reciprocating saw blade, I affixed to a handle, and cut the holes out manually. This way I get accurate smooth cuts. Takes several hours, and patience. Should have had more patience when cutting the holes for the wires.

I'll probably use the same method when I cut the two holes for the doggie A/C, the 1400 BTU A/C I just purchased. I don't know the diameter if the exhaust and intake holes. If they aren't too big, I can use the hole saw method. Also not sure how much this unit weighs. It is basically ah 8 inch cube in size. Regardless, I probably will have to add some kind of support between the trailer support studs, in order to mount it. I'll figure something out.

Also have that three inch diameter floor hole for for that A/C power cable pass. But I am not using the 30 amp cable off my generator. That is way too much. I'll just use the 20 amp socket to run the A/C, and whatever is needed during the day.

That work didn't seem hard, but it did send me to an early nap. Guess small trailer work is more difficult than working in a large one where you can stand up.

EDITED: Low, the holes are 1.5 inches diameter. I wanted to ensure I had more room than I needed to run the wires and the grounding cables, and in case ever need to install additional wiring. I doubt I need all four holes, but I tend to be cautious, and plan ahead for the just in case things. I can always cover any of the holes with a strip of plastic and weld it on with plastic/foam safe super glue. I'm going to try that Butyl tape I purchased. Just need to mold it around the hole.

It's been a while since I made any progress on my build, and it may be a while longer before the wiring gets done. I've decided the limit the majority of what I thought I would do. I have finished installing the electrical panel face devices. I added a couple more cigarette lighter receptacles. That way, I will just install two opposite my bed. I will install one of the LED lights on the wall just above my bed so I can reach up and turn it off. Th other will go in the front of the trailer. That's all the wiring with the exception of connecting the control box ground to the trailer frame.

I was going to build a wall just inside my cargo trailer rear door, but that would take about two inches or more of my usable trailer interior length away, so I will remove the trailer door, and build the wall where the trailer door would normally seat. That way I can install my teardrop door in that wall. I just have to figure out how to remove the trailer door that is now there, and figure out how to frame the opening so that it is fairly robust, able to withstand off road travel.

That is as far as I have gotten, mostly thinking how to do things simpler.

Is there a reason why you can't install the door in the trailer door?

The problem is that the latch handle and catch on the door, which would interfere with the teardrop door opening. I would love to change that bar lock to a normal door lock and deadbolt, but I am not sure that is possible. Withe the big hatch latch and associated hardware gone, adding the door in a door would be easy, but then I would not need the teardrop door if the big cargo door could act like a normal door.

Another thought is how much support do I lose if I cut out one metal support stud on the side? If that could be done, I could install the teardrop door on the driver's side, and not have to use the cargo door except for loading and unloading.

Love that switch panel, nice work. I might have missed it but where did you get it?

Bete, Everything is from Amazon. I live in a kind of out of the way place, so locally it is nearly impossible to obtain what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074R ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002 ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X3 ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075D ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Z ... UTF8&psc=1

I initially cut lines in the box panel with an X-acto knife. I then took a reciprocating saw blade, sawing by hand along that line until it cut through. once I had enough room for a hack saw I finished up the line cut.

Holes were cut with a Forstner bit, then using a curved file, filed the opening larger until the cigarette lighter sockets fit.

I know the way I did things sounds time consuming and tedious, but cutting holes of any kind in this box creates too much heat with power tools, causing melting, and sometimes,as in a hole saw on a drill, chipping.

Hey Caley Ann,
I really like that junction box and the switch panel is great! Have you ever used step drills? May have been perfect for this. I use them all the time for sheet metal and panelling.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools ... gJdBPD_BwE

McDave

Thank you Caley Ann

McDave, Just won't work with this type of plastic. Any high speed cutting device causes the plastic to melt, then once the cutting device is past re-solidifies. End up with a fused mess. Cutting it by hand eliminates this problem.

Anyone know if I can install a regular RV lock mechanism in my rear trailer door? I kind of would like to remove the lock bar setup, so I can add the teardrop door into that back door panel. It's just that this big lock bar handle is in the way. If it can be done, any recommendations on a RV trailer lock set with deadbolt.

i've seen rv latches installed in a cargo door with the locking bar still in place. i bought an rv door latch set and plan to install it a month or so when the weather is better. i will remove the door and open it up to insulate and maybe install a small non opening window while i'm at it.

CaleyAnn, Howdy;

Here's the results of a quick search of this site for ya.

viewtopic.php?f=42&t=69850&p=1224678#p1224678

hank

I've done some more thinking about where to install the teardrop door, and think the rear just won't work either. Of course there really isn't an ideal place to install such a door on this tiny trailer. Bit I think I can just squeeze the door in on the driver's side of the trailer as depicted in this photo. I will have to cut part of a metal stud out, but will also have to frame the outline of the door between these remaining studs and the partial stud with 2x4's. The hard part is figuring out how to install those 2x4's to the existing trailer framework. Also, I have to figure out how to cut the opening with hand tools. I am guessing that I drill four pilot holes, and then use some kind of hole saw to cut the metal out. Probably need a hacksaw to cut the metal stud. Somehow I have to discover a way to have the hole in the outside, and the inside ply panel match up.

If you are wondering why the bottom of the door will be so high, I have to avoid the wheel well. As it is, the bottom of the door will only be a few inches above the interior floor.

This means my having to redo the insulation and the electrical work I have already done. I will have to move one of my intake vents over, but that isn't a big deal.

I would also like to mount a fixed step to make entering and exiting easier. Any ideas on a step? My trailer frame is only about 3x3 inch angle steel, so there isn't much purchase for welding or bolting it onto the frame.