almost.......

[rastaman]

So, since my last post weeks ago, I have gone back and read all the posts of builds or other topics that I thought would be helpful. Yes all 44 pages.
I now find myself in the uncomfortable position that most others have when doing a build. The dreaded ...cutting the holes in the skin.

First...I will need to install a roof vent...Questions. ...
Is building a 14 x 14 frame with wood, then attaching it to the metal roof braces inside with brackets sufficient. or is a metal framing required,

The next thing I need to decide is the size windows, not having the convenience or ability to weld, I am leaning to selecting windows that fit inside the studs.
Am I correct in assuming that metal headers would not be necessary?

Other than that I have pretty much have my plans for the inside set in jello, as I am sure they will change as i progress.

thanks

rasta

[flboy]

Rasta, what type of studs do you have? If the studs are a "P-hat" type and not the square type, there is a very good way to do it without welding. The window becomes structural in this case when all tied together with the aluminum tube stock, window frame itself, and your plywood interior paneling. Plenty robust. Not going anywhere.

I was prepared to weld in my case (which would be the best way), but opted for an alternative as I have no welding skills developed and I was too worried about scortching exterior paint in the process.

Confirm what your studs look like. Framing with aluminum tube stock and screwing to P-hat studs may work for you and will be plenty strong for the job.

This is what I am calling P-hat. Some call it top hat.




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[rastaman]

flboy....thanks for that info....will check when I get back to the CT.
Any thoughts on the roof vent????

[onehoser]

even though i have lots of welding experience and a wire feed and ac/dc welder i still only used rivets when i cut out a 'stud' for my window install. i was afraid of accidentally blowing a hole through the skin or burn marks.

[flboy]

On the roof vent, IMO, just cut some 3/4 ' plywood to tightly fit between the ceiling joists leaving 3 or 4 inches wider than the fan on the sides, and cut your 14' square opening in the center. Also use some small L brackets to keep the plywood firm to the ceiling on the edges. The fan will hold it altogether and tight when you screw into the plywood.

A couple things: the vents do not wiegh much at all so the plywood secured between joist is substanial enough to screw into and stabilize. It will not carry any load or structural stress to speak of.

Most trailers have the vent already there and framed to accomodate an Air Conditioner after the fact. Not needed for just a vent.

There is no way this would work for an A/C or anything weighing that much.

Also, after the fan hole is in, you can frame it with with some 1*2 on the inside so you will have something to secure your ceiling panel and vent trim to. Just figure it out so total stackup is the same depth as existing joists and flush.

That is what I would do if it was mine to do.

Just get that hole right. ;-)

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[beachguy005]

I have 1" square tube steel framing so I just ripped some 1"x1" pine. Built a frame so it fit tight between the roof beams and used L brackets to secure it to the beams. Added 1"x1" cross members so I had a frame to attach the vent to on all sides. Drilled holes through the roof from below in the corners of the vent frame section. Finished the cut from the roof. Used butyl tape to set the vent, screwed the vent flange through the roof into the wood frame. Covered the screw heads and flange with sealer.
The wood also give something to screw any ceiling panel into around the frame. Add trim ring inside.

[rastaman]

Thanks guys...I am already feeling more reassured now that I have gotten confirmation on what I thought I would do....

This build is going to done with the emphasis on keeping it light and versatile, As i would still like to use the CT for hauling stuff when needed. After insulation, I am still debating if I should construct the 'kitchen' in the V section....sink, 2 burner stove, water tank and grey water catchment below....Or if I should build it on wheels, keep it located at rear of trailer, with the option of rolling it out on the ramp/deck when cooking outside is preferred.. I will have to think this over thoroughly as I would like to build a 'wall' across rear opening, to provide air, light and some kind of privacy/protection at night when sleeping with the ramp open. Other than that, there will be sleeping for 2 (still undecided what type). Solar/Batt. for 12volt refer. Plus a window on each side.

getting pumped

rasta

[flboy]

On your stove, I'd just get a 2 burner camp stove that runs off 1lb bottles in any case. You can stow it away when not using it to free up counter top. I put in a full blown stove with oven because I had it, but if just going with a stove top, I would have kept it simple so I could take it outside to cook if I wanted to.

I still keep a portable for that reason and a cover for the burner top inside so I can use it for counterspace when not cooking. The oven is a nice luxury though. I use it a lot of times and it also stores a few pans well.

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[rastaman]

On your stove, I'd just get a 2 burner camp stove that runs off 1lb bottles in any case. You can stow it away when not using it to free up counter top. I put in a full blown stove with oven because I had it, but if just going with a stove top, I would have kept it simple so I could take it outside to cook if I wanted to.

I still keep a portable for that reason and a cover for the burner top inside so I can use it for counterspace when not cooking. The oven is a nice luxury though. I use it a lot of times and it also stores a few pans well.

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Hummm ...Why didnt I think of that. I already have a new camp stove. ....I could make a folding shelf for the stove, keep the sink and free up some counter space.I think having a sink near when cooking is nice...

thanks.....keep those ideas coming.