Just starting

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Just starting

Postby Qira123 » Wed Nov 28, 2018 7:06 pm

Hi evryone, have been reading a lot here but just now come aboard. Going to do a ctc. and already have questions. Still looking for trailer. Want 7x14 v. Biggest plan is to haul atv and then camp for deer hunting in wisconsin fall and winter. TV will be 2017 Silverado 1500 5.3 and pretty 3:42 rear end standard mirrors. First question, will I be ok towing a converted 7x14? So far I am looking at sure track 20 min away, neo 40 min away, and stealth 3+ hours away. Please comment on these brands. Neo (aluminum) is pushing the budget, stealth I can only find negative reviews, sure track windows, ac, (13500btu) power roof vent are about 40% higher than the rest. So I am still looking. I am in Fort Wayne, In
Look forward to any help. Seems like a fun forum. Wade...
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Re: Just starting

Postby hankaye » Wed Nov 28, 2018 10:26 pm

Qira123, Howdy;

WELCOME !! Always room for one more here, new perspective, new thoughts, &
lots of newish questions ... , oh, and please take a bunch of pix...

hank
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Re: Just starting

Postby CoventryKid » Thu Nov 29, 2018 10:15 am

Welcome Wade:

I chose NEO back in 2014 when my wife and I moved from Nova Scotia back to BC. Over the winter of 2014/15, I converted our 7x16 to a travel trailer able to carry my wife's power wheelchair if needed. We've been fulltiming in "Ali" for almost 3 years now. Only problem in over 30K miles of touring the US and Canada? A broken spring in Oregon on the very rough Hwy 101.

I wouldn't hesitate to buy NEO again.

Hope this helps.
Doug
Vancouver Island, BC

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GMC Savana Explorer Limited SE hightop conversion van
NEO NAVR 7x16 V-nose aluminum trailer now a comfortable travel trailer

Build: http://www.tusker-international.com/1-trlr-build.html
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Re: Just starting

Postby onehoser » Thu Nov 29, 2018 11:00 am

i bought my 5x8 stealth new a few years ago, it's very basic in design and build but that's reflected in the price. i like that it's light weight and easily towed by my 2004 jeep wrangler loaded with kayak and all of our camping gear for off-road events. if i had to do it all over again i think the only thing i would do different is i'd order a tongue maybe 6" to 8" longer because the spare tire hits the trailer jack so i couldn't open the tailgate too far and the handle would hit the spare too, but i fixed that by relocating the trailer jack to the side. all in all i'm very happy with it
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Re: Just starting

Postby PrecisionLook612 » Fri Nov 30, 2018 11:26 am

You are going to have no issues pulling a 7x14 with your Silverado, the 5.3 has plenty of power to get you going and down the road. I assume you are going to order it with brakes as well? I would just suggest you be mindful on your buildout with you weight placement so it’s not too tongue light with the ATV inside the trailer and not too heavy without it. If you build it to get the weight right over the axle you will be doing much better!

Are you planning on having it all built out from the factory with windows, A/C and a vent fan or are you going to add them on your own? Depending on how handy you are you can always add those things later to save a few dollars and/or build it out over time. For example I ordered our Look 6x12 with the windows installed becuase I didn’t want to worry about the hassle and if they factory installed ones leak it is covered under the warranty. I think they ended up costing me a couple hundred more that doing it myself but the piece of mind was worth it to me. I didn’t have them install an a/c or roof vent but I did order it with the ceiling already braced to install later. So far I have put in my own MaxAir fan and will be doing the A/C at a later date whe funds permit.

I can’t give any advice on those trailer brands but as suggested above I would definitely suggest you order it up with an extended tongue. I did an extra 18” on ours and its great as I have no worries about hitting the back of the tow vehicle in tight maneuvers and it still leaves me plenty of room to put propane tanks and possibly a small generator out on the tongue in the future! I would also suggest you go with a straight axle over a drop axle for more off-road clearance. I went with a drop axle initially and my stabilizer jacks in the back barely cleared the curb backing into the driveway. Luckily I was able to swap it out for a straight axle and the clearance is much better.

Good luck on your build. This board has been a great resource for me so far and lots of great inspiration on our build. I look forward to seeing what you do with yours.
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Re: Just starting

Postby Qira123 » Sat Dec 01, 2018 6:23 pm

Thanks Everyone. What would the ideal tongue length be? Plan to have windows and roof vent installed at factory other than that I am unsure at this point. NEO absolutely will not extend the tongue. Sure-trac will only use a 13500 ac, I an checking to see if they will extend the tongue and use a straight axle. I will do the wire, insulation, and build but dont want to cut the trailer. I am concerned with the weight issues with and with out the atv and will be giving that considerable thought. Thanks Again,
Wade...
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Re: Just starting

Postby NO David! » Mon Dec 03, 2018 7:59 am

Welcome Qira123!
-Your tow rig, is an easy match for your trailer, I'd say even loaded. Mine is a 7x16 Tandem Cargo Craft, was 2,200 dry, now 3,000Lbs loaded with gear. Tow rig was '95 Ford E-150 5.8L/3.55 (nowhere near the power/torque and cargo capacity of your 2017 Silverado), pulled it fine. Now the tow rig is my '02 Mitsubishi Montero (Full Size), 3.5L V6/4.30 gears, 5 speed auto. Again, no problems here either, as a matter of fact, I prefer towing mine with the Montero, due to gearing and AWD options. I would just put a check mark as "good" by your tow rig for the trailer you are considering, and move on to other questions.

-Extended tongue. What for? The other poster mentioned a Jeep wrangler, with spare tire mount. Your truck only has the tailgate to clear. Your existing spare tongue space is taken up by the V. Do you need the space inside or outside the trailer? If you want the V for fuel efficiency, might as well mark that off the list too, reportedly, it really doesn't help. I chose the standard flat front to provide a "squared" interior to build off of, and traditional space on the tongue for a box later.

-I'm running a 6,500 btu window A/C in the Southeast U.S. with 1" styrofoam insulation, and a bit of fiberglass in the ceiling curve, and it does the job nicely. I imagine a 13,500 in a insulated trailer in your area could create a meat storage locker. (ha!).

-I too chose standard straight axle, no 4" drop, to gain ground clearance for the forest service roads, and steep road entry/exit to hilly areas. I just use slightly longer ramps to load the lawn mowers, and sometimes crank the nose jack to change the angle if needed. (barn doors in my case).

-For planning, always get a trailer, 2' longer than you think you'll need. (I started plans with a 7x14, so glad I followed advice here).
-Yes to factory windows, high and offset for crossflow, light, and interior wall space left. (thanks to forum member gonefishin)
-Stab jacks at 4 corners, welded from factory
-36" RV door from factory, =best money spent.
-Plan on a multi-speed reversible roof vent, perfect for your area, and hunting destination.
-Having a single step at the RV door from the factory is nice too.
-Checkout vertical E-track, in my build, handiest setup I've ever used.
Here's mine, take out the kayaks, insert the ATV, add sink/toilet whatever and you're done.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=48345

Not sure about your budget, but since you are close, go up and take a factory tour of Intech trailers in Nappanee. (Sister company is IntechRV). They build industrial, motorsports, custom trailers, all aluminum. Most of their stuff is commercial/government, but they do custom work, and for example, you might custom order one of these 7x14 fiber optic trailers, built to suit your needs, get a quality trailer and a deal in the process?
http://www.intechtrailers.com/fiber-essentials.php

Another one close-by is Aluminum Trailer Corporation, check out the Raven line of Cargo trailers. Aluminum framed, probably not cheap, but since you will be traveling snowy roads sometimes...
http://www.aluminumtrailer.com/raven-cargo-trailer

Welcome to the madness!
Last edited by NO David! on Tue Dec 04, 2018 7:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Just starting

Postby McDave » Tue Dec 04, 2018 12:12 am

Excellent advice from NO David!. And I would concur on every point. I have a 6 x 12 x 6 flat nose, wish I had a 7 x 14 x 7 but what I have works beautifully.
Honestly, if I lost 20lbs 6x12 would be perfect, but...probably will have to get a bigger trailer, or leave the wife at home. I use mine to haul the Harley to rallies and camp. Managed to get a toilet/shower, vent/fan/light combo, refrig, sink/bar, 13.5k AC/heat, Catalytic heater, TV/stereo, awning, generator and a rifle rack all in there. Move out the Harley and blow up the air bed, good to go.
You do need to understand and control the weight and balance to be safe. Keep the heavys over the axle and try to get 10-15% on the ball hitch. Here is a tool to help you with planning and math. Good Luck!
https://www.engineersedge.com/calculato ... alance.htm

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Re: Just starting

Postby Qira123 » Sun Dec 16, 2018 9:03 am

Good Morning Everyone. Again Thanks for welcoming me to the forum and the help and advice so far. Going to put the order in for CT after the Holidays but for now I need to ask a couple questions.
1 This trailer uses torsion axles, they said they would switch from a drop axle to a straight torsion axle. Is that going to get me enough ground clearance?

2 The electrical. Little early for this but I am trying to get my plans in order. Elec demands will continue to increase. For now I will need to run roof vent, water pump, charge battery/s, phone and comp. Might put roof top ac in now, and small cook-top, fridge, (water heater, On demand???) I am certain this list will grow. And I am sure I will want to add solar in time. I will have receptacle for generator or shore power, battery/s for 12 volt. so considering the above where do I start? My thoughts were 120v breaker panel 30 or 60 amp???, PD 4045 (or 60 amp???) and battery/s. And for example when I take this deer hunting in the freezing Wisconsin winters it will sit for 9 days no shore power. Thinking I might want to keep my battery/s inside and propane tanks on the tongue. If someone could let me know if this is the way to go and the specific products I would appreciate it very much. Everyone have a great day and Thanks Again.

Merry Christmas.
Wade...
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Re: Just starting

Postby McDave » Mon Dec 17, 2018 9:50 am

Hey Wade.
Congratulations on the trailer! So, a straight axle, torsion or otherwise will get you about 15 inches to the frame if you are running 15in wheels and tires. Is that enough? Probably, unless you are doing something spectacular and even then, your clearance is really limited by the axle height. So unless you want 30" wheels and tires, you're good.
Well if you are ready to start ordering parts, I would suggest that you get a power center like the WFCO 8955 or the PD4045 to handle your breakers, fuses, distribution and AC/DC converting and battery charging to start. They are fairly complete for the basic RV power needs. Also get a master cutoff switch for the batteries. Next you will need a 30 amp RV Power inlet and cord. The generator will plug in there same as "Park Power". Solar is real nice but not absolutely necessary right out of the gate. As long as your batteries are fully charged they should be fine in the cold for a week. The inside wont be a whole lot warmer than outside if you aren't adding heat, it'll just warm up slower if the sun does come out. Get your truck wired to charge RV battery while in motion and get a relay so the trailer can't drain the truck accidently when parked. Also you are gonna want some type of propane heat, and one that doesn't need electric is handy. Check out the Wave Catalytic heaters, they rock. I have an on demand H20 heater and it is awesome, only needs D cell batteries for the spark. The pump is 12vdc but you have to winterize the water system or keep it heated and heat the lines and tanks.
I found that Ebay has most of the stuff you will want, and also Amazon. I would strip out the walls and put in windows if you want, then wiring, then at least 1 in of polyiso in the walls, 2 in for the ceiling. Then put the walls back up and from there well, the world is your oyster. Anything you want is possible.
Good luck!

McDave

Oh yeah, budget for insulation under the floor, makes a big difference in the cold climates. Ask me how I know...
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Re: Just starting

Postby hankaye » Mon Dec 17, 2018 10:37 am

Qira123, Howdy;

I'd say the same as McD just did.

hank
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Re: Just starting

Postby Qira123 » Wed Dec 19, 2018 8:22 am

Ok, thanks again, that will be my plan but can you recommend the switch and batteries that might be good to use.
Wade...
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