Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Postby Carolina_coast99 » Sat Jun 22, 2019 11:52 am

Hello all,
 I am closing in on the actual ordering of a ordering of a trailer; currently I am in the process of finalizing the size and particular options on a car hauler (cargo trailer) and how much I can afford.
I was hoping to ask a couple of questions on the actual build if possible...

Insulation
1. I know this topic is beat to death, and I have read and researched extensively on it but I have not seen anyone do/suggest this method of insulating:
     I plan to use 1/2" or 3/4" foam board in between the metal studs (ribs) compression fitted ( I mean just tightly fitting between  the studs) and  lightly glued.  I plan to fur out the ribs another 2"  to 3" horizontally in order to accommodate for additional insulation.  For this additional insulation I plan to have "rigid foam spray insulation " installed.  I think this somewhat loose base layer of foam board will allow flex of external aluminium skin along with allowing for  heat expansion/ contraction.   Then I can get the benefits of the rigid spray foam.  I will do this on the walls and ceiling. What are opinions on this method please?

2. I plan to opt for an extruded aluminum floor, in which I plan to do the rigid spray foam insulation underneath on the entire trailer between joists. 

Am I not seeing a reason this may be a bad plan?

Plumbing
As of now, I plan to not install any waste tanks. No tanks at all really.  Relying on full hookups.
I'd like to have my standard toilet p trap  plummed through the bottom of the trailer into a standard RV style outlet pipe and then a RV hose to the campground waste pipe.  I can have a additional (secondary) spiket in the shower (mounted at waist or knee height)  with a hose, in which I can introduce additional water into the toilet bowl to " flush down" the Iine after a standard tank flush.  Is  this a poor idea?

Electrical
I plan to only have 110volt service  in the trailer.   No 12v DC.  I will rely on campground power or on a generator I carry with me.  Is there any real necessity for 12v DC wiring in my trailer?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Re: Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Postby Iconfabul8 » Sun Jun 23, 2019 12:32 am

This trailer going to double as a frozen food delivery trailer? Sounds like you are insulating a deep freeze. I assume you are talking about something like this stuff: https://youtu.be/bAYc-VCLUYA It's great stuff, just way expensive. As for your plumbing and electrical, if you are always going to be hooked up to sewer, water and power I don't see a problem. Just keep a flashlight handy (or a battery powered led ceiling light) in case you need to find something at night before you are hooked up. Not sure I understand the hose for extra flushing. can't you just flush twice. Also, pretty sure a standard toilet flange just mounts to a straight pipe. The p trap is built into the pot. Whichever route you go, it sounds like fun, and remember to take lots of pics.
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Re: Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Postby troubleScottie » Sun Jun 23, 2019 2:14 am

12VDC is often good for when you get to a campground and cannot get anything but the overflow area. Or if you want/have to stop due to traffic, weather, exhaustion, breakdown. Not everything is planned.

You can have/get 12VDC LED lights. Also many RV appliances eg frigs, TV, radio, heaters, water heaters, water pumps, fans run on 12VDC. You can do most everything without shore power. Granted 12VDC appliances will cost more.

Generators generally are not allowed after dark in most organized camp grounds.

You need to consider what you are doing about water or the loo. You most likely will need some water source occasionally eg the 1,2 or 5 gallon containers.

Any of your indoor plumbing is off limits if you have no sewer connection. Again, you might not get full service connections. I am not familiar with how guaranteed a reservation is.
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Re: Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Postby Carolina_coast99 » Mon Jun 24, 2019 2:13 pm

Iconfabul8 wrote:This trailer going to double as a frozen food delivery trailer? Sounds like you are insulating a deep freeze. I assume you are talking about something like this stuff: https://youtu.be/bAYc-VCLUYA It's great stuff, just way expensive. As for your plumbing and electrical, if you are always going to be hooked up to sewer, water and power I don't see a problem. Just keep a flashlight handy (or a battery powered led ceiling light) in case you need to find something at night before you are hooked up. Not sure I understand the hose for extra flushing. can't you just flush twice. Also, pretty sure a standard toilet flange just mounts to a straight pipe. The p trap is built into the pot. Whichever route you go, it sounds like fun, and remember to take lots of pics.


Lol- I like insulation. A man I work with took a NJ city transit bus and converted into an RV. He used the rigid spray foam insulation and he says his a/c will barely run keeping it nice and cool inside, while everyone else in campground has theirs cycling on and off constantly. Not sure I will get these results from a ctc, but will try my best.
I had planned on the second faucet fixture in the shower already -for other uses (dog for example), and just threw that option with the hose out there...haha
I think I can always go back and install 12v DC at a later time...I'm just trying to keep it simple for right now I guess.
Thank you Iconfabul8!
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Re: Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Postby Carolina_coast99 » Mon Jun 24, 2019 2:25 pm

troubleScottie wrote:12VDC is often good for when you get to a campground and cannot get anything but the overflow area. Or if you want/have to stop due to traffic, weather, exhaustion, breakdown. Not everything is planned.

You can have/get 12VDC LED lights. Also many RV appliances eg frigs, TV, radio, heaters, water heaters, water pumps, fans run on 12VDC. You can do most everything without shore power. Granted 12VDC appliances will cost more.

Generators generally are not allowed after dark in most organized camp grounds.

You need to consider what you are doing about water or the loo. You most likely will need some water source occasionally eg the 1,2 or 5 gallon containers.

Any of your indoor plumbing is off limits if you have no sewer connection. Again, you might not get full service connections. I am not familiar with how guaranteed a reservation is.


Yes, I think that having some sort of fresh water tank is advisable. I will incorporate this with a tank and pump.

And yes, possibly the black water tank too after you mention it. Was hoping to simplify my initial build.
Great point you have brought up.

The considerations on 12v DC are good ones for sure. I will think on these. I may opt to go back at a later time and Install 12v DC, less cost right now as my budget looks to be impacted after my trailer purchase- Haha.

Thank you troubleScottie!
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Re: Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Postby CoventryKid » Tue Jun 25, 2019 9:11 am

I originally planned our CT to be hooked up to shore power every day but quickly found that was not always possible. I added a couple of old Gel batteries from my wife's power wheelchair (when we upgraded) and re-wired the LED lights, Maxxair fan, and water pump to run off both 110 and 12V. Best upgrade I did!

I installed a 15 gal fresh water tank just in case. Again, this gave flexibility to not have to be connected to shore water - there are many provincial parks/BLM/other sites that are beautiful but have nothing more than a water spigot. We can now camp anywhere or be hooked up.

Finally we use 5 gal water jugs as holding tanks under both sinks. A porta-potty is perhaps not as nice as a proper toilet, but does mean we don't have to be hooked up all the while. RV valves under the kitchen sink divert the waste water to the 5 gal tank (when not hooked up) or out the sewer drain (when we are hooked up).

I guess my suggestion would be not to limit yourself just to RV parks and shore power/water. Some RV parks are really nice, but many are expensive, close quarters, and noisy. We prefer having both options available - RV parks and provincial/BLM/other type camping spots.

Check out my build - link below.

Good luck.

Hope this helps.
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Re: Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Postby Carolina_coast99 » Tue Jun 25, 2019 9:52 am

CoventryKid wrote:I originally planned our CT to be hooked up to shore power every day but quickly found that was not always possible. I added a couple of old Gel batteries from my wife's power wheelchair (when we upgraded) and re-wired the LED lights, Maxxair fan, and water pump to run off both 110 and 12V. Best upgrade I did!

I installed a 15 gal fresh water tank just in case. Again, this gave flexibility to not have to be connected to shore water - there are many provincial parks/BLM/other sites that are beautiful but have nothing more than a water spigot. We can now camp anywhere or be hooked up.

Finally we use 5 gal water jugs as holding tanks under both sinks. A porta-potty is perhaps not as nice as a proper toilet, but does mean we don't have to be hooked up all the while. RV valves under the kitchen sink divert the waste water to the 5 gal tank (when not hooked up) or out the sewer drain (when we are hooked up).

I guess my suggestion would be not to limit yourself just to RV parks and shore power/water. Some RV parks are really nice, but many are expensive, close quarters, and noisy. We prefer having both options available - RV parks and provincial/BLM/other type camping spots.

Check out my build - link below.

Good luck.

Hope this helps.


Great great info! I really like the idea of RV valves under the sink to have an option.
I will check out your build for sure. I hope there are pics of those valves.
Thank you
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Re: Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Postby CoventryKid » Tue Jun 25, 2019 6:42 pm

Yes, there is 1 pic of slide valves under the sink - head on so not the greatest, but hopefully you'll see okay. If not, let me know. I can take more pics.

Hope this helps.
Doug
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NEO NAVR 7x16 V-nose aluminum trailer now a comfortable travel trailer

Build: http://www.tusker-international.com/1-trlr-build.html
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Re: Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Postby Iconfabul8 » Tue Jun 25, 2019 11:15 pm

Carolina_coast99 wrote:Lol- I like insulation. A man I work with took a NJ city transit bus and converted into an RV. He used the rigid spray foam insulation and he says his a/c will barely run keeping it nice and cool inside, while everyone else in campground has theirs cycling on and off constantly. Not sure I will get these results from a ctc, but will try my best.

From what I have read, If you live in a humid climate, you need to make sure the AC runs long enough to remove the water from the air. I suppose in your case, that would mean using a smaller AC. Not a huge problem out west where I live. I did however, live in Florida for a couple years and I sure didn't like the feeling of climbing in cold wet sheets in the winter. :o :(
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Re: Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Postby Carolina_coast99 » Wed Jun 26, 2019 7:06 am

Iconfabul8 wrote:
Carolina_coast99 wrote:Lol- I like insulation. A man I work with took a NJ city transit bus and converted into an RV. He used the rigid spray foam insulation and he says his a/c will barely run keeping it nice and cool inside, while everyone else in campground has theirs cycling on and off constantly. Not sure I will get these results from a ctc, but will try my best.

From what I have read, If you live in a humid climate, you need to make sure the AC runs long enough to remove the water from the air. I suppose in your case, that would mean using a smaller AC. Not a huge problem out west where I live. I did however, live in Florida for a couple years and I sure didn't like the feeling of climbing in cold wet sheets in the winter. :o :(



Good point. I plan to have a window in the bathroom area I can crack open (rear of the trailer), and a vent up front (like the one "working on it" referred to on his build -see Salem vent question - thread located in this category. (I can't paste the link, sorry.) Hopefully I can open vent paths manually to adjust humidity as needed.... I suppose also that the cooling leakage from side door, window, and vent area will help in prompting the ac unit to run a little more also- Haha
Thank you!
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Re: Car hauler/cargo trailer questions 000

Postby Carolina_coast99 » Wed Jun 26, 2019 7:25 am

CoventryKid wrote:Yes, there is 1 pic of slide valves under the sink - head on so not the greatest, but hopefully you'll see okay. If not, let me know. I can take more pics.

Hope this helps.


Yes. Great documentation. Excellent build. Thank you
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