Best size for cross country trip

[flboy]

AMEN on the steps. I added them myself after about hurting myself with portable step.

It would have been an issue of clearance to mount with standard drop axles however. Not enough clearance for the 4 inches needed. With straight axles, clearance should be good. I later put my axles on the bottom side of the leaf Springs (flipped) which gives me clearance. I recommend you get straight axles if you plan to do any offroad. I did not realize how low the drop axles make the trailer clearance... and I paid extra for them with salesman's recommendation. :-(

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[XR-duous]

Had another thought.....perhaps this has already been said. The extra width gives you more insulation space without sacrificing cargo space.

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[jwhite]

adding to the last suggestion I don't think the insulation in the walls is as big a issue as in the roof I added 2 sheets all the way around to fit flush and I think that's probably all you need even in the south.
But I started out with a portable AC
( don't buy one )
and when I would stand up I could feel the heat from the roof
that's when I realized that I could have added 2 more sheets in the roof because I hade a 7ft tall trailer and never noticed the difference.

after I went with a 8000btu window ac it hasn't been a problem, but my comments here are if I were to do it again ?

[flboy]

8000 btu unit does mine very well also. The 6000btu did it, but had to work harder. Have you insulated the floors? I did and it made a very noticeable difference. I have double in the ceiling also, but that is where the heat goes, not where it was coming from in my case. I bet the 6000btu would do better now.

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[jwhite]

I bought the 6000 btu ac and went the same day to lowes and found the 8000 on sale so I bought them both on the same day didn't feel like going for the return and maybe could us it at home, so I have used both in the trailer and even though the 6000 would do the job it took hours of running to do what the 8000 would do in a hour,
I didn't insulate the floor I guess I ran out of steam and didn't think it was worth the effort .
I hate to say but I wasted probably 1000 dollars on flouring
from the peel and stick to the whole solid piece roll I bought the cheapest engineered flooring to some of the most expensive engineered flooring,
some of this is my fault for leaving the ramp and door open and having sun and rain have it effects.
But it being a homemade camper I wanted to look the best it could be with the money I had to work with
having done all this the best flooring can't stand up to having a golf cart that maybe was loaded wet or sandy grinding that in regularly it looks ok still but I am not going to ever replace it again.
again if I had to do it again ?

[NO David!]

7 x 16 for us. I preferred the straight wall layout for the inside, and yes visibility while towing is a bonus too. Bunks make a huge difference. Kids are grown now, but we still camp out of it. ~ 7 years now, and every time I want to re-design it, we end up deciding, we wouldn't change a thing. Straight axles for ground clearance, 4 stab jacks, RV step, RV door with screen, windows high/offset. Started with 7 x 14 plan, folks said "always buy 2' more than you think you need..." Gold!
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=48345

[McDave]

I guess I'll Toss my .02 in here on the insulating and A/C conversation. Insulating the roof and floors is money and time well spent for sure. Even the wall insulation plays an important role as the goal is to slow air and thermal infiltration. But, as has been mentioned previously the heat gathers at the ceiling where your head is so it most noticeable. This is why rooftop A/C units are used in RV's. They also typically are of higher BTU's and therefore can remove the heat and more quickly and effectively. As an added bonus they require no floor space or lifting to install or additional hatches to be cut, and can be installed in the 14x14 vent hole that already exists in the roof. They also can be fitted with a heat strip that can handle moderate heating needs that you might have except below 30f. And remember, they treat the hottest air first. My trailer cools down in minutes and the compressor cycles are short and effective. They are more expensive to purchase but it is a one and done proposition. And again, no additional structures or floor space is required.
Something to consider...

McDave

[ferbal]

I took my trailer across country last year and we loved it... but... We are planning another trip next year and are ditching the camper in favor of a tent. The only advantage to the camper was boondocking in the east where most of your options are on pavement. Out west most wilderness boondocking locations are just as usable with a tent or roof top tent. A pick up holds all our gear and not having to worry about a trailer makes adventuring and exploring less restricted.

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[cstamm81]

I appreciate all of the responses here folks! I will most likely hitch up a 7' wide model and an 8.5' model to my truck and see if I have any issues with the vision around and behind the 8.5 footer. I'm lucky in that my brother has a ton of enclosed trailers on his lot in every shape and size. I have towed 8.5' by 24 foot trailers from Eastern PA to the middle of Ohio a few times. The width never bothered me, but I was on major highways 95% of the time.

ferbal, I appreciate this perspective. Tenting is still a viable option in my opinion. I see myself using a converted trailer for quick getaways and to actually haul cargo, so I feel I would like to build one regardless. That said, the main driver for looking into one currently is for the upcoming trip next Summer. The thought of not being tethered to a trailer while covering that many miles is appealing. I just slept in my Springbar tent last night with my kids in the yard, as far as tents go, it's about as good as it gets.

I'll have to choose whether or not to have a trailer built in the next three months, as the manufacturer's lead times change from 5 to 6 weeks to 12 plus weeks around Thanksgiving.