So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thread

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby brianjonesphoto » Fri Jun 12, 2020 1:38 am

Not much progress has been made on the inside this week. I got the plywood off and have some gaps to fix in the V but over all I'm satisfied with the build quality. As I said earlier I admitted defeat and ordered a trailer dolly. I really didn't want to spend the money, but it is the best cheapest solution for my parking. As you can see in these photos there is no way in hell I'd get this trailer in and out with my truck even with a front hitch. the clearances are just too tight. I'm a bit worried about the additional width of an awning to be honest.

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As you can see I needed every inch available to get things lined up.

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I have about 6" right now between the house and trailer. The sand bags are to add some extra tongue weight. I had traction issues with the dolly. 220lbs of extra weight around the jack fixed that.

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I've got a little more room to work with on this side.

Needless to say I don't think I'll have to be too worried about theft. There's no way to get this out without totaling the trailer or significant damage to the house or deck. The ramp is even blocked on the back by the house. The side door and dolly are the only ways to access it.
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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby brianjonesphoto » Fri Jun 12, 2020 1:40 am

What did you guys use for fasteners on the ceiling furring strips. The options for self drilling flat head screws are very limited when you get longer than 2"
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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby McDave » Fri Jun 12, 2020 10:41 am

You can counter sink the screws say 1 inch into the fir strip. Just predrill a pilot hole, then counter sink with a hole the size of the head of the screw. Mark the desired depth with tape or paint on the drill bit.
Honestly, that power dolly is pretty cool. That really is a tight spot. You might have to grease it up next time!

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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby Rainier70 » Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:52 am

From your overhead picture it look like you could replace your hedge with a tall fence and have room to park to the right of your driveway. It would certainly be easier to get in and out.
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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby brianjonesphoto » Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:59 am

Rainier70 wrote:From your overhead picture it look like you could replace your hedge with a tall fence and have room to park to the right of your driveway. It would certainly be easier to get in and out.

Overhead shots are very deceiving. That hedge hides a 30 degree slope to the property line. We investigated that option early on. About $30k to replace the existing wall and level that spot. Maybe someday. Just trying to make this trailer happen. I haven’t worked in 3 months.
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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby brianjonesphoto » Tue Jun 16, 2020 7:40 pm

Got 90% of the walls insulated today. I still need to frame in the 30” windows before I can insulate those cavities. I also have to figure out how I want to deal with the radii on V-nose. I really don’t want to have the sheet metal sections for a finished trailer.


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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby brianjonesphoto » Thu Jun 18, 2020 10:26 am

Those of you that have awnings how far to the hang off the trailer when closed? As the photos show my parking spot is tight and I don’t know if I have the additional width for one.


Got most of the insulation up and half the tape yesterday.

Today’s tasks:
Move trailer wiring to make insulation fit cleaner in radiused corner.
Finish taping.
Mark roof joists on the outer edge of the roof for future reference.
Install furring strips and second layer of ceiling insulation.
Cut studs for windows and weld in cross framing.


Thanks.


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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby brianjonesphoto » Sun Jun 21, 2020 11:26 pm

My week was more productive than most as my wife was furloughed from work. Tomorrow I go back to full time parenting and less trailer work. We sort of agreed to camping trip over forth of july weekend. Not totally sure yet we are going, but it adds some pressure to get the basics down to make the trailer functional in 2 weeks. I need to finish the ceiling install lights and a rudimentary temporary electrical system to run the lights with SLA batteries I have on hand.

This was my big accomplishment for today. I decided to run some "conduit" in the corner under the insualtion. 1 piece is for the trailer wiring and the other will be get the house electrical system from the wire run at the top or the wall to the "power center"

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It was a bitch to insulate around. I did the best I could but I think we are going to have a cold spot. I'm hoping it will be mostly covered by a cabinet anyway.

Not much working time as I needed to track down a forklift for 2 of the 3 things I needed at home depot. :x That really ate into my working time.

What have you guys used to secure the ceiling panels to the furring strips? I'm thinking brads or staples. What about screws? :thinking: Much easier to undo later if need be.

Thanks
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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby McDave » Mon Jun 22, 2020 1:38 am

Battens and screws with finish washers. I have carpet on walls and ceiling. The battens hold the carpet tight.
162309

You can use spray foam to seal any gaps around conduit etc.. It is easy to cut/trim after it has cured.

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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby brianjonesphoto » Fri Jun 26, 2020 1:14 pm

This weeks hasn't been as productive as I'd like but that COVID life. I got my backup/loading lights installed while waiting for paint to dry.

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To seal or not? The air gap between the insulation and where the wall will be. Part of me thinks this should be sealed to keep cold air out, but the other part of me thinks the breathing could be a good thing. What are your thoughts and experiences?

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Thanks.
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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby onehoser » Fri Jun 26, 2020 3:49 pm

i left it open on both of my cargo builds, my thinking is that it allows it to breath and let out any condensation that may pool there. it seems that many manufactures leave it unsealed for a reason
I am the wisest man alive, for i know one thing, and that is that i know nothing. (socrates)
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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby featherliteCT1 » Fri Jun 26, 2020 3:54 pm

Those of you that have awnings how far to the hang off the trailer when closed?

My Dometic awning sticks out 5 inches.
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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby brianjonesphoto » Mon Jul 06, 2020 10:12 pm

Thought I should circle back with a build update. Thanks to the long weekend I got 3 days of mostly trailer work and much less child wrangling since my wife was home.

Last weeks I was able to get the ceiling installed and lights up. In hind sight I wish I would have put some sort of furring strip up where the seems would land. It looks like crap as is and will need to be trimmed out with either more luan or some 1x2. :x

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You can see I've left a 4" wide channel exposed to run all my wiring. I'll trim this out where it's not covered my cabinets. It will let me go back and make electrical changes without having to strip everything down.

The walls went back up pretty easily. I took advantage of them being horizontal and put a coat of primer on them so much cleaner that painting in place.
I am so happy that I paid extra for screws instead of the hell nails. Best $100 I could have spent.

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I bit the bullet on Sunday and cut a big ass hole in my trailer. I was a bit nerve wracking, but nothing to tricky. I did learn that my build tolerances are much tighter than the typical RV/trailer shop. I had a hell of time getting things in place because the hole was only 1/16" bigger than the window. I think I'm going to struggle with the next window and the frame has less slop than this one. I did the cutting with a jig saw as is suggested and it worked well. I'm so happy to have an oscillating saw as it worked really well to cut back the plywood for the trim ring. It's like cutting plywood with a really loud Exacto knife. 30x22 exit window.

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Here's a handy and cheap tool I've found invaluable while working on the trailer. I got some strong neodymium magnets to mount my backup camera monitor in my truck and found they make really good 3rd hand tools while the wall are off. cuts some scrap 1x2 and 2x2 and screwed the magnets too them. I used them to camp furring strips to the trusses before screwing in. The helped hold the plywood in place while marking things up. They can hold wires out of the way. They can hold window templates on the outside so you can draw a cut line. They can find framing from the outside. Handy in all sorts of handy uses.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YSTJ4TR/re ... aFbY1GGNC7

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Lastly I had on sizable oops this weekend. I was cutting out a hole for my fill dish and "found" a double stud that didn't have any screws in it :oops: :x :cry: . I measured twice but did not double check with the above magnet to make sure it was clear before I started cutting. Thankfully I was checking progress and didn't cut the stud. I've ordered some .025" diamond plate to trim out my "water services". It will make it much easier to clean up spills than scrubbing on the paint. :lol: I'm glad this was the screw up for the day and not too big of a hole for the window. That would have sucked.

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I moved my hole location over a couple inches to clear the stud and ended up cutting my wires for the water pump. :x :x :x :x :x I was really pissed at that point! I had to pull the lower wall panel off and solder/heat shrink the wire back together. I didn't have any more long runs to redo it less than ideal but should work just fine.

I spent some time today wring in the relays that will control the ramp/backup lights and running lights from the interior switch panel. The running lights will come on with the porch light so you can find the trailer while stumbling around in the dark. Here's how I did it.
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The N/C connection is always connected unless both interior switch and master power are on. Once the switch connects the relay coil to ground the relay changes the power source to the house battery.
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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby brianjonesphoto » Wed Jul 08, 2020 10:48 pm

I'm trying to figure out a battery question. I've budgeted for a LFP battery, but I'm starting to feel the financial hemorrhage on this build. I was planning a 180ah battery pack for about $600. I could downsize and get a 135ah and uses the saving to buy a solar 100watt panel. Where is my money better spent? I'm thinking the larger battery and add solar later which was the plan from the get go. It will only get cheaper. I don't plan on having any large draw item. No inverter at this time. A maxxfan and 12v fridge will be my biggest potential continuous draws . I might have a diesel heater in the future which is a large current draw, but only for 10 minutes at a time.
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Re: So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thr

Postby flboy » Thu Jul 09, 2020 5:51 am

I'd go with the Larger battery because you cannot make it bigger later other than to add another. Also, the 100W solar really won't charge it quickly. That's my 2 cents any case.

BTW... where are you getting a 180aH Lithium Battery for $600. That seems very cheap... and for that, I may upgrade. I have 450aH of FLA Golf Card batteries for 225aH useable. I'd love to go with 2 180aH Lithiums. I'd would reduce weight and give me more available aH and charge quicker with my 800W of panels.
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YouTube Video of Finished 7*18 with 2ft V-nose Trailer:

https://youtu.be/MUcMM86LA2g
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