So this is happening, Mirage 8.5x16x7.5 V-nose build thread

[brianjonesphoto]

I’ve not had any issues so far knocking on wood. I’m not running lead acid batteries so I can’t speak to that portion of it. Yes it’s rated at 33.4a at 15v. Since I’m running it at 14v I get a little more out of it. I’m getting a consistent 40.5A from mine without triggering the protections.

There are 100’s of different meanwell power supplies. Something doesn’t seem right.

Come to think of it I haven’t seen the power supply taper off much as voltage increases. Maybe it has to do with the fact the bms charge cut off is lower than the power supply out put

[featherliteCT1]

Thank you for taking the time to help me.

Mine is a model SE-450-15, the specs for which are at https://www.meanwell.com/productPdf.aspx?i=463#1

Yours is at
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/260/ ... 109676.pdf

The specs for yours and mine are pretty close, but yours has a feature, which mine does not, called “Built-in active PFC function.” I do not know what that means.

[brianjonesphoto]

I bought the se at first cause I’m cheap. I didn’t have any issues with it. It didn’t like it because it was so inefficient. Using an eu2000i I have 13.3 amps to work with and 6 amps needed for motorcycle charging. The se pulled 8 amps even at a partial load.

The rsp only pulls 5.75amps and puts out 40amps. That is what the pfc circuit does.

Have you tried a different 30 amp test load?

I have a bad habit of not throwing stuff away I have a half dozen headlight bulbs floating around. They are about 5 amps each. 6 bulbs in parallel would be about a 30 amp load.

The problem might be the charge controller.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[featherliteCT1]

Thanks, you have been a great help. I will do more testing. I too bought the SE because I am cheap. LOL!

I too have an EU2000i and have not yet used it, but will do so now that you have alerted me to the issue.

Depending on what I find out, I may end up buying the RSP.

[brianjonesphoto]

I found a leak today. I assume it’s from a window I installed in the fall. The floor is damp and has signs if water wicking from under the wall. Nothing else is wet. I assume the water is coming down between thr insulation and plywood. Hope to open the wall up this week to take a look. It’s going to be a royal pain to the wall open.

Any thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[onehoser]

when i stripped out my new 6x12 to insulate i found that water was coming through the screws holding the top trim. i backed out each screw and applied silicone to them

[brianjonesphoto]

Upon further inspection I think it’s a weep hole blockage. There is a plastic clip in the channel to help keep the window tight while closed but it blocks the weep hole. When I pulled the trim ring it looks like the insulation is damp on the inside edge which would be consistent with water backing up in the window trough. I’ll keep investigating.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[brianjonesphoto]

Well crap. I pulled the susspect window yesterday since the weather was dry. No signs of water intrusion there. The saw dust was still on the foil face of the insualtion. I don't think the widow is the issue. I did find the tail lights had no sealant and they drilled a 7/8" hole for the wiring. I applied a bead of butyl tape and reattached them. Hopefully that seals that gap. I'm still looking for the cause. If today goes well I'll inspect the trip bolts as mentioned. There is also a running light in the wall in the area of the leak. looks like I'll need to at least silicone around that too although it does have a rubber gasket.

Of course taking a hose to the trailer created no visible water intrusion.

[hankaye]

brianjonesphoto, Howdy;

Only a suggestion, why not wet the outside with soapy water and use some low pressure air,
if you have a compressor, and see if any bubbles show up. You only need a few pounds of
pressure. Like looking for a leak in an inner tube. Takes 2 people but ... Just thought I'd
throw that out there.

hank

[brianjonesphoto]

brianjonesphoto, Howdy;

Only a suggestion, why not wet the outside with soapy water and use some low pressure air,
if you have a compressor, and see if any bubbles show up. You only need a few pounds of
pressure. Like looking for a leak in an inner tube. Takes 2 people but ... Just thought I'd
throw that out there.

hank

That's a great idea. If it have to resort to opening the wall up to find the leak I will give it a try. I'm going to hit the simple and obvious things first as opening the wall means gutting the street side of the trailer.

[foxontherun]

Good morning,
Don't forget that water follows the path of least resistance.....means the leak might not be where you think.

One of my leaks was showing up at the rear of the trailer but was actually coming in where the fender attached to the trailer; the rear of trailer a good four feet away. One of the screws from fender went thru the siding instead of the framing. Also, don't forget to check your roof seams. I found a bubble in my roof tape up in the nose, pushed on it and water squirted out even though the tape looked to be intact.

I had such a hard time finding my leaks; I removed the entire floor, wall panels, and insulation. Thankfully, that is as far as I had gotten when I started noticing the leaks. Once I had the flooring up, I sprinkled blue chalk dust along the edges of the floor frame next to walls so I could at least see where the leak might be starting and running from once it got to the floor. Worked pretty good. Example picture, see where it shows dark blue, that is the water leaking in.



Best of luck in finding yours, hopefully without having do a lot of gutting to find it.
Harry