Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby foxontherun » Tue Aug 11, 2020 10:13 am

Good morning,
Trailer is all aluminum. Will the cleaning method be the same as steel? What do I seal aluminum with?

Thanks!
Harry
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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby hankaye » Wed Aug 12, 2020 7:30 am

foxontherun, Howdy;

foxontherun wrote:Good morning,
Trailer is all aluminum. Will the cleaning method be the same as steel? What do I seal aluminum with?

Thanks!
Harry


Harry, mornin'. Well, looking at your photo again I'm seeing rust (iron oxide), on the tongue.
Aluminum's "rust" is generally a whiteish/gray color (Aluminium oxide). I'd try an Scotchbrite
pad (Blue), then work up in coarseness (Green), to see if the Rust color comes off with that.
We used to use the rule of going with the mildest method then work up into the industrial
strength stuff. The use of some Comet or other brand of scouring powder would be justified
to help remove the stain. These will also work on the base of the switch as well. You've
caught it early and it is just surface rust.
As for sealing the frame, good question. Is it painted now? If not then you can seal it with wax
or you can get a rattle can of clear lacquer to cover it. Raid the wife's hair spray, same thing.
The main thing is to clean it up and see what you actually have then using the mildest means
possible, remove ALL of the corrosion then apply a sealing compound it it. As I mentioned in
my previous post I guessing that the ground is supposed to be through the hole to the frame.

Best of luck. Please let us know how it turns out.

hank
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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby foxontherun » Sat Aug 15, 2020 11:19 am

Tried the Scotchbrite pad, did OK on the light rust stain but the deeper rust didn't seem to do much. Found a solution though that did the trick. Straight white vinegar and aluminum foil. Poured a small puddle of vinegar on area and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes then took a piece of aluminum foil crumpled up shiny side out and scrubbed. Pretty much came off first round. There was just a little area where the rust was a little deep not just surface rust. Same trick again, voila good as new. Then, I washed it with soap and water and rinsed real good. You do not want vinegar to sit on aluminum for long time it will begin to cause corrosion itself from what I read about it. But this trick worked and quite well. Here is a before & after picture.

Harry

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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby foxontherun » Sat Aug 15, 2020 11:22 am

Would there be any reason NOT to put dielectric grease on switch between frame and bottom of breakaway switch to help eliminate future corrosion perhaps? I checked with factory to see if there was supposed to be anything between and they said no; has to be metal to metal for grounding. Curious if the grease would work.
:thinking:

Harry
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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby hankaye » Sun Aug 16, 2020 9:31 am

foxontherun, Howdy;

Ya done good! Looks like hardly anything has happened, which it should
when you're finished.
The Grease will form a barrier (good), but will need to be renewed at intervals.
How often??? You will need to figure it out. I'd suggest after a drive in the rain,
after driving through a winter storm with treated road surfaces, After sitting for
a period of time. Only some suggestions. I'm sure you can think of as many as
suites you or a few as you feel comfortable with.
Overall, :applause: :applause: :applause: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :applause:

hank
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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby foxontherun » Sun Aug 16, 2020 10:25 am

Thanks, appreciate the input and help! :)
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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby foxontherun » Tue Sep 15, 2020 8:13 pm

Been working on my electrical and have a question of how to connect the 30 amp service in panel. I have 8/3 SOOW wire running from inlet plug to panel. Since there is only one "hot" lead, is there a way to hook this up so I can use both sides of panel for breakers?

My understanding is you have to have two hots to do so. I found a picture here on the forum that shows how someone hooked theirs up but not sure if they can use both sides of panel for breakers. I failed to note the thread the picture came from. Here is that picture:
163207

This is picture of my panel:
163206

It appears in their setup that they used a 30 amp breaker on the left side and then utilized the right side for their output. Is there a way for me to utilize all the spaces in the panel? Don't know that I will need it all but would like to hook it up to do it just in case. :NC

Thanks,
Harry
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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby pchast » Tue Sep 15, 2020 10:12 pm

Sure Harry..... Just run a jumper between the two sides.
This will not increase your power supply. You just have
30 amps at any one time and the single phase...
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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby foxontherun » Sun Dec 06, 2020 11:07 pm

Been working on electrical for a while now and getting around to wiring the inverter into the equation. My inverter is primarily for the refrigerator but might be used for AC if needed in a pinch just to cool things off. My AC/Fridge stack in on driver side of trailer and the power center and batteries are across the aisle on passenger side. If I were to wire the plug on the AC/Fridge wall to run over and connect in the power center with 12/3 cable like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-12-A ... t/50148240 would something like I have in this diagram work?
163808

My thinking is to be able to plug the 12/3 into shore side outlet when I have shore power and swap it over to 12V inverter side in the outlet when I need to be on inverter. Trying to keep cable run as short as I can between inverter and batteries. The 12/3 cable would run thru a open conduit chase in the ceiling. Wondering if this idea would work and be safe :thinking: .

I could run shore directly to driver side and 12v as well but thought this idea might work just as well and eliminate some of the extra wire.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby featherliteCT1 » Mon Dec 07, 2020 6:25 pm

Should the blue cloud icon that says "12v", actually say "120v"?
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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby foxontherun » Mon Dec 07, 2020 6:34 pm

Perhaps it should say inverter instead?? It would be for the power that would be supplied by the batteries.

Thanks!
Harry
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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby foxontherun » Sun Jan 24, 2021 10:15 pm

Need some help on how to straighten aluminum door frame where it meets the plywood floor. I have a piece of trim that fits over plywood and bumps up right against door frame. However, the door frame has gotten beat up some; not sure how, guessing my big feet have been bumping in when going in/out but don't really know. Putting some LVT flooring in and want to put the trim piece on when I get done. Any advice on how to straighten it back to somewhat straight would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Harry

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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby hankaye » Mon Jan 25, 2021 10:28 am

foxontherun, Howdy;

One method is to use a vise with something smooth to protect from the grips of the jaws.
Allow it to set for awhile to remove the winkle memory.


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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby foxontherun » Mon Jan 25, 2021 12:25 pm

Hank, the part that is messed up is part of the side door frame; it is level with the plywood floor. Not something I can remove from trailer to work on.
I didn't know if there might be some :thinking: "secret" tool that can be used to help bend it back in shape enough to get the trim piece to slip down in hole between the plywood and door frame. I have never worked with bending any type of metal back. Thought about a slender pry bar between plywood and door frame but that would probably end up making it worse with my brother (Murphy) always hanging around, ha!
Harry :)
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Re: Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

Postby featherliteCT1 » Mon Jan 25, 2021 6:09 pm

I wonder if you could insert one piece of flat stock/bar steel into the slot between the edge of the wood floor and the inside edge of bent trim flange (the bar would have to be the correct thickness to fit in the slot), then place another piece of flat stock on the outside side of the flange, so that the flange is sandwiched between the two pieces of flat stock.

Then use a hammer to lightly tap the outside bar, repeatedly, to flatten out the flange. I suspect that the flange is fairly malleable and would bend easily.

Two short pieces of angle iron could also serve as the bars. If the lower leg of the angle iron that fits into the slot is too long (so that the upper leg of the angle iron does not lay flat on the floor), you could put a wood shim under the upper leg that overhangs the wood floor so that the angle iron firmly sits at a ninety degree angle. Then tap away.

If the flange is malleable enough, you might even be able to use wood in lieu of metal bars. The wood slat that fits inside the slot could be cut to the exact required thickness. Then use a board as the outside piece to hammer on.

Just brain storming with you. :NC
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