Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi all, starting the thread to log progress on the trailer!
Bought a new 6x12 Interstate Victory trailer. We plan on making it a little piece of home so that we can travel a couple weeks a month. I will be working from the road during these 2 weeks so I need to make it as comfy as possible!
We started a youtube channel to vlog the process so I will be posting links to those as they roll out.

First thing we decided to do was put on the electric brakes. Was super easy and fun to do something I've never done before. Heres the video:

https://youtu.be/cHoH1kyDXJ4

Ya Hey... Very nice. Thanks for sharing.

I too added brakes, mostly to squeak out that extra 510 lbs, from the 2990 lb legal limitations verses the 3500lb axle claims.

Sad though that the brake kit itself weighed 64 lbs, trailer side wiring another 6 lbs, making the actual potential capacity only 440 more lbs.

Though I've towed many different sized trailers with various loads up to 6000lbs hundreds of times without brakes, I get the concern of many forum posters that brakes should be on all trailers for those moments of surprise braking in a world where these days, people are driving 85 miles an hour around us regularly, often even on the two lane roads that used to be 55 mph max.

Looking forward to your interior plans !

Grummy wrote:Ya Hey... Very nice. Thanks for sharing.

I too added brakes, mostly to squeak out that extra 510 lbs, from the 2990 lb legal limitations verses the 3500lb axle claims.

Sad though that the brake kit itself weighed 64 lbs, trailer side wiring another 6 lbs, making the actual potential capacity only 440 more lbs.

Though I've towed many different sized trailers with various loads up to 6000lbs hundreds of times without brakes, I get the concern of many forum posters that brakes should be on all trailers for those moments of surprise braking in a world where these days, people are driving 85 miles an hour around us regularly, often even on the two lane roads that used to be 55 mph max.

Looking forward to your interior plans !

EXACTLY! I know others have bigger and better towing vehicles but I still can't imaging driving thru the mountains without that comfort.

About the weight... Am I correct in assuming the only reason they put the sub 3k limit on most single axle trailers is because the manufacturers don't want to put the brakes on? I thought the 3k brake rule didn't apply EVERYWHERE anyways.

>>>>Am I correct in assuming the only reason they put the sub 3k limit on most single axle trailers is because the manufacturers don't want to put the brakes on? I thought the 3k brake rule didn't apply EVERYWHERE anyways.

I'm not sure of what each particular states laws are regarding brakes, but across most similar forums, the consensus seems to be that everything under 3000lb gross is exempt from brakes.

Manufacturers likely use a 3500lb rated axle on a 6 x 12 for example, because if they didn't, once the shell is on, people would be very limited to what they could actually carry. That is why another lesson in single axle trailer selection is to watch the trailers empty curb weight. We find some manufacturers claiming as little as 950lb curb weight on an aluminum frame, whereas mine claimed somewhere around 1200lbs. While the 950lb trailer might have the exact 2990 rating, One can be assured that there simply is not as much material used in the construction itself.... like floor or wall members on 24" instead of 16", or using "Z" shaped flimsy channel compared to tubing.

Purchasing a 7 x 12 or 6 x 14 single axle carries similar concerns as the structure weight obviously climbs, but the 2990 limit is still in place, which cuts into the actual load you can haul. Back to the 950 Curb weight, one has to wonder just how a 950lb aluminum rig might hold up at a 3500lb load simply because brakes were added, but with less materials used in the structural build.

Mostly however, I think the manufacturers realize the $$$ Value of NOT putting brakes on this size trailer. First, the laws are written as such which helps, they can focus on large quantity purchases of ONE axle, a 3500, then de-rate things under 3000 on the tags, but best of all, tag on a rather incredible cost increase for adding brakes for those who do not know just how inexpensive and easy a brake kit bolts onto any modern axle with the flanges already welded in place.

In my state, NO ONE is suspect of whether brakes exist or are required or not by law for non-commercial looking vehicles. DOT vehicles will pull over business entities for quick checks, but fully ignore even the most ratty looking trailer even when obviously overloaded. Likely, things turn more serious if an overloaded, non- braked trailer got into a crash, and insurance and lawsuits took place. At least I no longer see WOODEN tongue poles anymore.. at least not since cheap welders started showing up in most garages.

I'm mostly concerned about how a DOT or State Patrol Officer would react to the 2990lb tags, being weighed at say, 3300lbs, and me pointing and saying "but LOOK ! I added Brakes! ". I'd like to think if the rig is clean and well maintained, nothing would come of it.

Off to a good start! I will be adding brakes to my 6x10 before next spring.

Hey guys just got the windows installed. Took longer than I expected. There was probably an easier way but we got it done. Here's the video.

https://youtu.be/szCHHpSpAk4

Hey guys back again. Just installed an rv style handle into the trailer. Twasn't too difficult but it was a PITA. Has anyone else had the problem I had in the video? Progress is slow. Hopefully we can ramp up during winter.

https://youtu.be/j3m-9qg_l8s

I really wish everything was going faster. Between life and waiting on items to arrive things are going so slowly. Anyways we got our maxxair fan installed. Check it out. https://youtu.be/C-vy-Wk_UsE

Are people sealing the seams created by the overlapping skin on their conversions? I was thinking about taking all of the screws out and running a bead of sealant in there as well as putting a dollop under each screw. Anyone find this unnecessary. Only downside I can see is the "breathability" factor but I can see light from the inside so I'm sure a butt ton of water will get in during a heavy rain.

When I had my floor and walls removed at the start of my build, I ran a lot of water over my trailer. It leaked pretty bad on the seams, and mine are "screwless"... they should have called it "Seal less" !

My biggest side wall leaks took place when I lowered the tongue all the way down and water ran down the roof, falling off the edges onto the outer walls. When it ran to the seams open from back is where it came in.

I used CLEAR OSI Quad caulk to seal them from the Outside. I do not want it to get in at all. The OSI Quad is probably the best sealer I have found in my local stores, and probably just as good as sikaflex would have been anyhow.

To do a NEAT job, I ran masking tape along each edge of the gap, put in a bead, smeared it flat, then pulled the tape.

Water inside is an ENEMY, so yes... get that thing sealed !

I haven't had any water come through side laps on mine (almost 18,000 miles now and lots of washboard and dirt). The worst issue I had with the skin was the gap at the bottom. Specifically at the front corners where the radius is. The gap was around 1". Sucked so much dust in my first dirt road trip. Sealed those gaps up with foam backer rod and sikaflex. When I had the plywood off to insulate I ran a bead of goop along the interior sides where the skin meets the frame. No more dirt issues, well from road travel that is. I have bad habit of not taking off my boots...

If I thought it might be an issue I'd be tempted to caulk on the interior each side of the stud. Less work (if you already have panels off) and would keep water out. One other issue with removing the exterior screws is they aren't meant to be taken in and out. The metal screws threads will wear as will the stud. So the more you remove and put back in the more likely you are to have loose fitting screws that can work out.

gnomadadventures wrote:...I can see light from the inside so I'm sure a butt ton of water will get in during a heavy rain.

I keep losing track. Is that slightly more or less than a crap load...?

Grummy wrote:
To do a NEAT job, I ran masking tape along each edge of the gap, put in a bead, smeared it flat, then pulled the tape.

Water inside is an ENEMY, so yes... get that thing sealed !

Got it. To be clear you pulled the tape while still wet?

dirtsailor2003 wrote:The metal screws threads will wear as will the stud. So the more you remove and put back in the more likely you are to have loose fitting screws that can work out.

THIS is what I'm afraid of but I've already noticed some streaks coming down from screws on the inside. Maybe I'll put a bead on the outside/inside and around the screws from the inside as well so I don't have to loosen those bad boys.

10-4 on not removing the screws