Bob's caboose build

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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Thu Sep 01, 2016 8:50 am

The sink was original to the land ladies farm house and she wants it reinstalled to get the house back to it's original look. This farm house has been in her family for 4 generations and the land and the farm goes back to a civil war land grant to her family. I think its great to have roots that run that deep :thumbsup:
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby VijayGupta » Fri Sep 02, 2016 6:35 am

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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Sun Sep 18, 2016 7:39 am

WELL A LITTLE UPDATE.... The 150 pound garden window won the first round. Attempts to lift it with the little ford tractor and boom was a bust. I ran out of lift inches before it could be inserted into the big gaping hole I have cut in the side of the caboose. :oops: :cry:

I am going to attempt plan B today (Sunday)

Hell just cutting the hole was a nightmare! To keep the window centered and to avoid cutting more than one wall stud completely out I had to literally split the two other stud Why did the window have to be 48" wide, why not 46+. To accommodate the 48" wide window I needed to remove 1/2 of the thickness of the 2x6 wall studs flanking the window sides. So using a 3/4" thick one by I marked a 3/4 cut mark which I followed with my circular saw set as deep as possible. I now have a 5 1/2" deep 2x6 cut not quite half way thru. With a saws all equipped with a new sharp 10" demo blade I plunged it into the kerf and let it literally pound its way thru the remaining 2x6 material and the zip wall exterior sheathing. It wasn't too bad on the left side but as the blade dulled the opposite side was a fight. The blade wanted to wandered here and there. I finally scored the remaining material with the circular saw set at 3/4" deep every couple of inches. As the saws all cut off a chunk I could at least attempt to restart the saws all blade at 3/4 deep. It was a mess when finished but as luck would have it I had a 32 grit metal impinged grinding head on my little 4" grinder so the humps and bumps were slowly worked smooth. I also needed to remove the mid height blocking and relocate it flat at the bottom of the window opening to be reused as a sill. I did not put in an upper header as the window box is built like a tank with 2" thick LVL laminate material. This is the reason the window is so damn heavy. It is a monster. What I haven't mentioned is that I have the 4 - 5 layers of removed blue foam stacked here and there in the caboose taking up space and getting in the way,or the fact my electrical wiring has some 12-2 romax exiting a stud in the cut out area :x

Well round 2 starts in about an hour wish me luck. Will have some pics of this adventure Tuesday when I get to work.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby Philip » Sun Sep 18, 2016 9:49 am

If round two doesn't get it let me know. I'll drift down and help. I have been wanting to see your caboose.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Mon Sep 19, 2016 5:45 am

Phil just let me know. However, It would have scared you to death yesterday. I had to rip out about 20 sheets of 3/4 blue foam insulation and think I made a 5 gallon bucket full of sawdust but after round 3 it is in the hole. By the time I cabled around it and fastened it to the lift boom I kept losing 18" or so that I really needed so I got mad and screwed in a big eyed lag screw. I was really worried the lag would rip out of the lvl frame but I was determined the window was going in. So I pried open the eye and made a hook, fed it thru the eye on the boom and set it on dual gangplanks I had these resting on the 275 gallon liquid tote I have ready for rain water harvesting and the other end was secured to a 2x6 cleat I screwed to the wall just below the opening. The 3rd lift was a success it went high enough to rest on the makeshift runway. I oiled the boards to make sliding easier and unhooked and started pushing. As I pushed the right side it went forward and the left side slid back. As I pushed the left side the right slid back :x

Not to be out foxed I pushed one side and took the battery drill and screw in a stop on the gang plank then pushed the other and set a stop screw and on and on. about 4 pushes and it was at the hole. I went inside to take a look at the fit and all was well but the top. It was hitting. I determined that at the 15 degree angle it was coming in too far in at the bottom causing the top to hit. I shoved it out a bit and grabbed the safety strap I had placed thru the side windows and around the unit and tried to tip it up square onto the window.... and of course the bottom slid in again :x

OK adapt and overcome ! Placed a 1x3 as a stop at the bottom and pulled the window again . It tipped up and slid in like a hand in a glove :lol:

Now how to do this alone and get every thing to stay snug so I can screw the unit final into the opening. Well after a trip to the truck for a small ratchet strap there was the question what to secure it to to draw in the window? The porch lights outside the side door have an elbow support that offered a place for a 6 foot 2x4 so I plop the 2x4 on the brackets and threw the strap over the 2x4 and feed the end back thru the hook eye. It is now securely loped over the 2x4. I placed the hook and ratchet on the safety strap thru the windows and started cranking. As the window entered the opening I removed the temporary bottom bump board. I had previously placed stops at 4" so the window reveal would be correct from the outside . As the window met the depth stops I inserted 3 1/2" construction screws. It took a few jerks to jockey all corners into place but I finally won in 3 rounds. :beer:

Today ( my last day of my 4 day weekend ) I will silicone caulk and butyl tape the opening and hopefully find some 1x4 for trim to finish off the opening and install the 2 missing batten boards and the tiny is a step close to being winter ready :thumbsup:
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Mon Sep 19, 2016 5:56 am

P.S. pics to follow in the AM Tuesday when I get to work.

UPDATE: Here are the pics as promised

Image cutting in

Image

Image here is the reason "the view"

Image the dangle

Imagethe hole is waiting

Image here is the make shift dual gang plank in the background

Image finally in !

Image here is the 2x4 outside the side door

Image and the safety strap that pulled it into place

Image the gang planks from inside

Image a late night shot. Still needing paint and final 1x4 trim but it's in and weatherproof. :thumbsup:


Probably to much info but it was a fun and frustrating project and getting it done alone was quite a feat.
Last edited by bobhenry on Tue Sep 20, 2016 6:20 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby Philip » Mon Sep 19, 2016 8:14 am

Glad you got it in.

It wouldn't have scared me. I worked a couple of decades as plant maintenance. You wouldn't believe some of the jobs I have gotten tied up in.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Tue Sep 20, 2016 7:18 am

YEP it's in !

Image
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby ParTaxer » Tue Sep 20, 2016 7:32 am

That will definitely open up the inside to more light and feeling of openness
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby godskid » Tue Sep 20, 2016 11:49 am

Plus, it's gorgeous! And I see that the side panels open, so you can get fresh air too. Lovely!
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Tue Sep 20, 2016 12:03 pm

It kind of reminded me of the hips on the caboose that the brakeman utilized to watch the train for trouble.

The first couple in this string have the observation ports on the side......Image
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Tue Sep 27, 2016 8:29 am

Well the outside is a couple hours from being complete a couple pieces of batten boards and a halo trim around the new garden window and it is done !

The zip panel green is gone.

Image

Image

Image

Image

The insulation that was removed to install the window has now been reinstalled and ready for drywall.

Image

Image

OH BY THE WAY ! Important info Rustoleum now make a liquid and a spray rubber compound very similar to Flexseal. The Flexseal was almost $14.00 a can and the Rustoleum is just under $8.00. That is what I used to match the rubber roof on the rear of the cupalo. Worked great !
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Tue Oct 04, 2016 9:07 am

Well Friday was heavy trash day in Podunkville so I went for a cruise. I had been toying with a canopy over the side door to protect the entry from the elements. I found a couple scraps of this and that but nothing I was really sold on. As I surveyed the available trash and treasures I found a discarded arched top garden arbor. I passed it by and went on. A bit later the little light went on so I returned and rescued it. If I cut the rounded top into a quarter circle I would have my frame for the canopy. It was 14" deep and 36" wide with bolted in stretchers so if I paired the 4 hoops, two right, and two left, with a 14" space in the middle it was 42"+ wide. All I had to do was put a bottom and top rail on the quarter circle and screw the top rail to the caboose sides. I drilled appropriate sized holes and pinned the tubing into the 1" x 1 1/2" trim with small screws. I had some Thermoply left over from the house in a house build so I used it for the covering and screwed it onto the wood finals. The heavy rains Saturday proved the worth of the canopy. It still needs a little caulking where the canopy meets the siding then it will be bone dry underneath. It was a bit bitter sweet as it kinda takes away from the caboose look a bit but it sure make a great improvement in the entry. And as usual total cost ZERO if you don't count 16 drywall screws :thumbsup: Update a couple weeks late......

Image

Image
Last edited by bobhenry on Tue Nov 01, 2016 6:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Tue Oct 11, 2016 12:09 pm

Went camping with the Hoosier group this weekend . After I got back I put in a few hours on the Caboose. I re-caulked the garden window a last time before installing the 1x4 halo trim around it. Monday I was able to figure out the final threshold for the side entry door.

Image

Water intrusion had been the big problem as there was still a inch and a half gap under door to the sub floor. Once the 3/4 inch parquet floor and a 3/4 threshold is added inside the gap will be gone but it has been a longstanding problem that has led to degradation of the floor not to mention critter invasion. I selected a piece of 5/4 treated deck board (left over from the tractor barn door construction) and cut it to width then added a 2" rip of t-111 ( also left over from the tractor barn siding) to give the threshold a 8 to 10 degree slope away from the door. Between the 5/4 board and the ripped t-111 strip I placed a double folded length of the EPDM rubber from the roof. It makes a rounded rubber gasket for the door to close onto. I also added a long length of EPDM under the entire assembly to direct water away from the wood members and siding under the door's exterior. I raked the immediate yard around the caboose to get the leaves, fallen sticks, and construction waste, away from the house to avoid any fire threat. I tossed it all in the rocket campfire ring for a good campfire later. I had the huge heavy S.O. cord that powers the house routed under the door so it had to also be relocated. I drilled a hole in the bottom wall plate directly under the junction box and disassembled the power delivery cable and re routed up thru the floor thru the newly drilled hole and properly restrained it thru the junction box and re attached all the power leads. Heck, I even found a strain relief fastener for the cable to box connection. ( It was left over from installing the breaker box in the tractor barn.) Again total cost for the projects was zero ! All materials were reclaimed or leftovers that were on hand.
Last edited by bobhenry on Tue Nov 01, 2016 6:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby rebapuck » Thu Oct 13, 2016 12:30 pm

My father always said that Mom could take a dollar and make it look like two. I believe you have her beat by a mile.
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