Repaint or touchup info.

Lanterns, stoves, etc... anything old!

Postby Mark72 » Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:01 pm

I don't think that would be too bad for a restore on a vintage piece. I wouldn't spend that much on a typical burner though.

Doug, there's a way to get a perfect black ventilator for your custom rocketear lantern!

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Postby doug hodder » Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:13 pm

That is a great idea Mark! What you gotta watch for is the ventilators that had the small perforated holes in them tend to rust out once the porcelain is broken on them. Those ones are going to be tough to find a good blank to get recoated or at least based on what I have they will be. There are lots of later lanterns that would lend themselves to that easily. Doug
Last edited by doug hodder on Sat Jan 03, 2009 1:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Mark72 » Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:53 pm

Has anyone tried to blast the old porcelain off of a chipped ventilator or should that be left to those guys. If there is a chip just waiting to jump off wouldn't it bond back down when they fire it in the kiln?

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Postby doug hodder » Fri Jan 02, 2009 11:12 pm

I don't know the firing process, but I'd think that any potential contamination wouldn't allow it to bond correctly. :thinking: Doug
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Postby rainjer » Sun Jan 11, 2009 11:31 pm

Here is some info I found on the Coleman forum.

INDEPENDENCE PORCELAIN ENAMEL
P.O. BOX 1036
Independence, Missouri, 64051 USA
Phone: 816-252-8180
Fax: 816-252-8181
Email:[email protected]
http://www.ipe-porcelain.com/

The contact's name is Jeff I believe.

Small top --$19.50
Small top red -- $24.50
Large top --$24.50
Large top red --$29.50
Small top two color --$24.50
Small top two color red --29.50
Large top two color --29.50
Large top two color red --$34.50

Plus shipping

Your better off to send as many as you can. The one I had done cost $14.00 to ship it back UPS and would have been the same for several more in one box.

If you send a vent to IPE that is bent or not exactly straight, it will be returned to you the same way, with new porcelain.

IPE's prices above include the removal of the old porcelain!

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Postby WarPony » Mon Jan 12, 2009 1:13 pm

Cool, J-Bird!! That place is only about 75 miles from me. Good link!!

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Postby rainjer » Mon Jan 12, 2009 2:40 pm

Just so everyone knows, I have not delt with them. I just copied and pasted the info from several post in a thread over on the Coleman forum.

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Postby rbeemer » Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:10 pm

I wonder if you could powder coat the vent then paint with the color of your choice?
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Postby rainjer » Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:33 pm

rbeemer wrote:I wonder if you could powder coat the vent then paint with the color of your choice?


If you are talking about paintin the vent after powder coat I would say no. The temp can reach 700-800 degrees on a 2 mantle lantern. The paint would just peal.

I was wondering what colors they had. I bet the have more than red & green.

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Postby Mark72 » Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:23 pm

I would just about bet they have a very wide selection. Can you say custom matching lantern?

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Postby hotrod » Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:12 pm

I use some ceramic hi temprature header paint by VHT on the headers of my hot rod and I know those pipes get hot hot hot cause they occasionally glow at night :twisted: That stuff holds up good, just be sure things are clean first.I use white but I believe they make other colors to. Might be good for a non restoreable fixerupper..
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Postby Mark72 » Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:50 pm

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Postby rainjer » Mon Jan 12, 2009 10:09 pm

They are all flat paints & here is a satin clear coat. You also have to bake cure it between coats.

"Curing:
VHT Flameproof Coatings will dry in 15 to 30 minutes. Baking ( a Bar-B-Que works great) at 250°F for 30 minutes, then 30 minutes at 400°F, then 30 minutes at 650°F, improves finish and provides a durable surface for solvent resistance. The inherent heat of operation as encountered in exhaust manifolds, boilers, heaters, ovens, etc. may also accomplish curing. Run heat source until hot then cool for 30 minutes, run heat source again until hot and allow to cool for 30 minutes. ALL CURING MUST BE DONE SLOWLY. Until coating is cured finish is not solvent resistant. It is recommended that each individual coat must be cured completely before applying the next layer of coverage."

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