Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

What you want to do is called "flat-towing." I have friends who tow cars and jeeps behind their RVs all the time.

Check this out...

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-part ... tions3.htm


CD

jss06 wrote:I would look into some way of using either surge or hydraulic over electric to activate the rear brakes on the VW. It really will help.

Don't forget you will also need to wire the taillights to the tow vehicle and possibly side marker lights as well.

The brakes are something I am struggling over as the car came with hydraulic drums on the rear and I have to switch to something else. (no master cylinder, ABS module, or brakes for that matter, are on the car now)

Thanks about the lights too. I had planned on removing all the car's wiring and going direct to the sides and tails as any trailer would have.

OH, the plan is to run it without the steering rack. While the free spindles scare me a ton, I'm told by very reliable sources this will work just fine.

Anyone with thoughts of creature comforts for the inside?

Cool idea. I've toyed with the idea of doing the same thing with a VW van. I wonder on the Jetta, how will the front suspension/steering geometry be affected by removing so much weight from the car?

Ah, yes. I have considered that issue too and that space is to be my main storage area. Not to sure I'll have the 600lbs-ish of stuff to match the weight of the drive train, but I'll see what I can do.

I bought a towbar to install on my VW bus when I towed it behind the Toyota. It just clamped over the front axle. No problem tracking. I don't think you can back that kind of thing up though. And, except for the engine, a bus is just a big shell.

this is what you need.

http://www.dub-box.com/

jnyjetta wrote:OH, the plan is to run it without the steering rack. While the free spindles scare me a ton, I'm told by very reliable sources this will work just fine.

You will need a tie rod or some other connection between the spindles or the tires will not track and will splay out.

rebapuck wrote:this is what you need.

http://www.dub-box.com/

O M G ! that is AWESOME!

jss06 wrote:You will need a tie rod or some other connection between the spindles or the tires will not track and will splay out.

You know I have argued that back and forth with my grandfather for weeks and he swears (with 70+ years of car building experience) that the geometry of the factory suspension when properly aligned will track solid without any other connectors. I agree with you though.

I'm thinking an adjustable rod (to keep alignment) replacing the steering rack (tie rods are attached to the rack) with a counter-pivot guide up to the tongue will help to control the front wheels and also help turn the wheels aiding in control when backing up.

I have had a tie rod brake at slow speeds once (f150) and the tire instantly turned out to the stop when going forward but would track ok backing up. Also isn't it common to mount bungee cords on the steering wheel of flat towed vehicles to help reduce sway?

In the 1950's we built farm trailers from lorry chassis. the drawbar(tongue) was pivoted on a cross-member and then the steering link attached to that. This would be a way round your steering and reversing problems. I'm not advocating it though as we used to get shimmy at 15mph so not sure what would happen at higher speeds. Also we didn't bother with brakes - your trailer would need them because of its weight. These would need to come on in a controlled way that didn't over-ride your towing vehicle's ABS etc.