Tear Hauler Concept

[HometownHockeyFan]

I've been lurking for a while...learning an amazing amount from the wealth of knowledge that this site holds (Hat's off to Mike for a first rate site)

But, I figured I had lurked long enough and had to toss my idea out here for the gang to see.

My concept is to have a trailer that would be usable for tailgating and motorcycling/camping...but, unlike traditional Teardrops, I would NOT have a sleeping area.

Key features are an outdoor kitchen (Based on traditional Teardrop gallery design), inside storage for tailgating, camping, or whatever activity you are doing, and room to carry 3 Motorcycles (Offroad bikes) in the outside bed of the trailer

Here is a very crude side view drawing. The rear of the trailer is similar to a std utility trailer (5x7 or 5x8 plus a tailgate/loading ramp)

Front of the trailer is a reverse TD design like the Jim Dandy, which houses the outdoor kitchen and the storage. TD part of trailer will probably be 5' wide, 4' tall, and 5' deep.



Trailer frame will be custom built out of 2x2x1/8 and 2x1x1/8 tube. Tongue will be removable...current design has a 2.5x2.5x1/8 tube sliding into a 3x3 tube. (I'm very interested in removable tongue ideas)

TD will most likely be built out of 3/4" Birch.

Weight is not a big concern since I'll be pulling it with a full size pickup truck.

I've searched the site for months thinking I might find something similar...but so far have not.

Any and all thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks...David

[HometownHockeyFan]

Here's one of the profiles I am looking at.



I like this one because it is very efficient...makes it easy to have the upper cabinets...but, it does make for a somewhat ugly design.

Here is a more rounded profile...but, it does make the upper gallery design tougher to do.



For both designs I am leaning towards doing a 5' length that will give me more storage space.

Here is front view of the gallery design I am considering.



I'm planning on doing slide out drawers on each side for a cooler and camp kitchen.

Here is the back view of the TD.



Bottom 2' are covered with Aluminum Diamond plate, and the top area will have doors to get to the inside storage.

Here is the rough side view of the cargo area:



Side rails will be made of 2x2x1/8 tube and floor will probably be 5/4 deck boards.

I hope this makes sense...appreciate any and all feedback. :-)

Thanks...David

[Wolfgang92025]

David,

Welcome to the fun.

Looks like your design should work. Axle placement might be a bit tricky. Only thing to be careful about is when you using the kitchen area, you have to move around the tongue or make it so it can be removed.

Looking forwards to seeing of your build in progress.

[HometownHockeyFan]

Wolfgang,
Thanks for your reply...and I agree on both of your points.

For the tongue, I agree it should be removable. Current design concept is to use a 8' 2.5"x2.5"x1/8" tube as the removable part, and a 4' 3"x3"x3/16" tube as the fixed part. There is a little slop between the 2 tube sizes, but I'm hoping the 4' overlap minimizes that...but, I am open to suggestions. :-)

On the weight balance. I agree it will take some careful planning to figure out axle placement. I know it can be done...since traditional toyhauler designs have the same issue to deal with.

Here's my thinking on max cargo weight. Most I think I would carry in the back would be 3 dirtbikes at 250lbs each and two 5 gal. gas jugs at 33lbs each...so that would be a total of around 800+ lbs in the back.

I have not figured out the front TD weight yet.

Good news is I'm pulling it with a 1/2 ton truck...so I'm ok with a heavier tongue weight if that is what I need to do to make the trailer safe.

Thanks....David

[Yota Bill]

one thing I would suggest, since you plan on making the tongue removable, make it extendable to change the overall distance between the coupler and the centerline of the axle. Then you could adjust the length of the tongue to account for loaded weight or empty. It would basically be as simple as drilling multiple holes in the tongue so it can be pinned in at different lengths. You may have to adjust the length of the two tubes you plan on using.

[Ageless]

To take up the 'slop' on the tube;use countersunk bolts. Countersink the outer tube only so when tightened the bolt will press the inner tube.

[eamarquardt]

one thing I would suggest, since you plan on making the tongue removable, make it extendable to change the overall distance between the coupler and the centerline of the axle. Then you could adjust the length of the tongue to account for loaded weight or empty. It would basically be as simple as drilling multiple holes in the tongue so it can be pinned in at different lengths. You may have to adjust the length of the two tubes you plan on using.

I am not "entirely convinced" that altering the length of the tongue will correct serious weight distribution/tongue weight problems. I think that for a single tube tongue I'd use 3X3X3/16 or even 1/4. To mount a coupler on 2.5" tubing would require some shims as the couplers I see available come 2" or 3" widths (no 2.5"). Also if you are intent on making the tougue removable, I'd make custom brackets for the tubing to slide into with minimal "slop" rather than allowing things to be loose and "bang around" as over time the hammering might lead to failure.

A single tube tounge is an inherently weak design. You might consider reconfiguring your "box" so that the storage is accessable from one side and the galley is accessable from the other side and eliminating the need to make the tongue removable and allow for a more stout design of the tongue/coupler.

A solution to getting a proper balance on the trailer is to mount your springs/axle to pieces of flat stock or angle iron. Should you not get an acceptable balance, you can always drill a couple new holes and relocate the whole shebang in a few minutes.

This trailer has the running gear welded to 1/4 inch flat stock which can be moved to adjust the balance. It will carry a VW Baja Bug (with Subaru engine) and at least two dirtbikes. We will also use an equalizing hitch. Yes the trailer has lottsa brakes. Hydraulic on one axle and electric on the other. It's gonna stop!!!!!



This is how the springs/alxe are attached on my teardrop frame. You slide the strap with the three nuts welded to it (not including me) into the frame's tubing from the aft end and then insert the bolts to hold the angle/running gear in place. This way you can get exactly the balance you want after you complete your build and have it loaded for the road. No spreadsheets, swags, or compromise's required.



My teardrop's bumper pulls out so I can fit a ramp and carry a small motorcycle and the bumper itself folds down so you don't bang your shins when using the galley.

Bumper up!


Bumper down and out of the way!


The taillights are set into the bumper so they're visble even when carrying a motorcycle.



I vote for going for the heaviest tongue weight your vehicle can handle w/o strain. Gives you more latitude on loading the trailer to less than optimum and the trailer will track and ride better.

Cheers,

Gus

[HometownHockeyFan]

Thanks guys for all the feedback!!

Sounds like the removable tongue will be one of the more challenging design aspects of this build.

I like the idea of the multiple pin locations to adjust the length of the tongue...sounds like it might be more for convenience then for weight distribution. (I might want the tongue longer for when/if I tow with my tailgate down)

I also like the idea of the countersunk bolt/nut for taking some of the slop out of the connection...but, I would not want to use that to make up for a very sloppy design.

I really like the idea of making the spring mount bolt-on so I can adjust it after the build. I would not want to move it between uses...but, would be very nice to adjust the balance with the fully loaded real configuration.

I also might need to look at some removable bars on the tongue to have it act more like an composite tongue. Maybe have some angle iron that runs from the tongue to the frame and fastens with bolts or pins...

Thanks again for all of the feedback.



Thanks...David

[HometownHockeyFan]

Well...it took over 3 years to build, but my Toy Hauler "MacGyver" is complete. Here are a couple of photos...and I am uploading more to my Gallery.

Thanks to all of the great ideas/people here that helped me complete my project.







No room to sleep inside...but, tons of storage

[lrrowe]

Looks like the galley is stocked correctly.

[Knolly]

Wow, that's awesome! When I saw this topic got bumped I remembered seeing it a long while back. Really awesome work!

[dales133]

That is fantastic.verry nice job

[felixx]

Nice work, Sir