Truck Camper

[rdraider]

droid, thanks! No problem just never really read into any lift choices.

Don't have a garage so i will have to come up with something.

[bobhenry]

RD

I have moved 2 dozen mini barns 1800 - 2500 pounds on a flat bed trailer.

T o load them I used nothing more than a dozen concrete blocks and a few 4x4's

Place a block on the ground as a fulcrum and use a 4x4 to pry up and block move around the unit until a block high build up your fulcrum with another block and repeat all the way around If things get wiggly place a 4x4 across the rear of the camper after you are taller than the truck bed. As you were smart and left the front blocks back about 2-3 feet from the front of the camper you can line up and back the truck under the nose. A piece of pipe or heavy walled pvc will help the nose roll after you have the truck under the nose so that you can now remove the front blocks. Backing under the unit will cause the rear blocks to want to creel backwards so a good plan is to use a ratchet strap and persuade the camper unit a bit at a time into the truck bed. Once in over 1/2 way you are home free. I have simply pried up on the barns and blocked temporarly to remove the roller or rollers. However, in your case you may want to add a healthy rope thru the pipe roller to help you remove it by lifting one side then the other to "walk" it out.

[rdraider]

Thanks bobhenry, see i knew there was more than one way to skin a cat!

[Treeview]

Using the rafters/trusses in a garage as a hoist point is sure tempting.

Be very careful though. building design is based on compression, snow/wind load. Adding a tension/pulling load where it isn't supposed to be can lead to collapse.

Without knowing what the rafter/trusses are rated for I'd be super cautious.

There are ways to add strength to rafters/trusses too. Plywood sheeting to tie them together, cross bracing...get hold of an educated carpenter, not just a person who hides nails.

Tom

[rdraider]

Well, got her loaded. Now to take her out and see what works and what doesn't and make changes along the way.

Loaded! by rdraider72, on Flickr

[starleen2]

[droid_ca]

looks good on your truck
congratulation

[StandUpGuy]

Using the rafters/trusses in a garage as a hoist point is sure tempting.

Be very careful though. building design is based on compression, snow/wind load. Adding a tension/pulling load where it isn't supposed to be can lead to collapse.

Without knowing what the rafter/trusses are rated for I'd be super cautious.

There are ways to add strength to rafters/trusses too. Plywood sheeting to tie them together, cross bracing...get hold of an educated carpenter, not just a person who hides nails.

Tom

Very good points.

[StandUpGuy]

Well, got her loaded. Now to take her out and see what works and what doesn't and make changes along the way.

Loaded! by rdraider72, on Flickr

Looks great on your truck. Of course you know we need more photos. Like with the unit open on your truck for example.

[rdraider]

will do! probably tomorrow

[rdraider]

Here it is in the up position.

In the up position by rdraider72, on Flickr

[StandUpGuy]

What a great solution and execution you have come up with. Who needs a trailer? Not you. Who needs trailer tags and trailer hitches and trailer lights? Not you.

[Treeview]

I've been spending the last few days going through build threads. Lots of clever ideas to emulate!

Your build is the closest to what is forming in the fog of my mind!

My idea is to take the box off, build a flatbed. Then build up like you did with your sidewalls. I'd make it longer too. Hanging gear boxes fore and aft of the wheels uses that space. Depending on the space there might be a flat slideout box between the flatbed and the frame.

Nicely done!

Tom

[droid_ca]

So how has the camper been working out for you? Are there any changes that your going to make? Do you have pictures of your interior setup?

[aratman]

I am wondering how the hinge position works when driving in the rain.