First build 5x10 Rimple design

[mariannf]

Hi all, I gave the new router a spin and understand why it is recommended. After using the jigsaw it is like driving a Cadillac. That said I have a question: for purposes of making the rabbet for the side all and bulkhead wall a few have suggested that the rabbet be 1/4 x 3/4. I understand that to mean I cut into the 3/4 ply at a depth of 1/4, and then cut a chanel that accommodates the 3/4 ply bulkhead wall. Is this right? Please see the hand drawn pic I posted in an above post.
If this is right I don't understand how to get to the 3/4? The standard rabbet router bit makes the Chanel 1/2 at most.
Thanks!

[KCStudly]

That's right. You should clamp a straight edge for the edge of the router shoe to guide on. You want to measure from the edge of the cutter to the edge of the shoe (or base) on your router and space the straight edge that same distance away from where you want the edge of the cut to be; it is better to err on the short side and have to mach an adjustment than it is to miss wide.

For a rabbet you can set the guide up once, free hand a couple of passes near the edge of the ply (it is better to make a few shallower passes than it is to try and hog the whole thing out in one pass) and then use the guide for the clean edge cut.

For a dado in the middle of a sheet you can either set up two straight edges like an alley and just clean out every thing between them; or you can set one and make the necessary passes down one side of the dado, then set the guide on the other side and clean out the rest. Using two straight edges makes it easier because you can do both sides and only have to change the depth settings on the router once for each pass.

There may also be situations where you want to scarf an area wider than the offset of the router shoe. In those cases it is better to work from the middle of the cut outward, otherwise you might not leave anything to support the shoe. With just one side of the shoe supported the router can get a little tippy (unless you use perfect technique) so I like to attach a shim the same thickness as the cut depth... I call it an "outrigger"... which helps support the router better. For simple short passes it's less of an issue, but when going around shapes and such when your hands have to cross over it is easier hold things stable and takes less concentration.

[mariannf]

That's right. You should clamp a straight edge for the edge of the router shoe to guide on. You want to measure from the edge of the cutter to the edge of the shoe (or base) on your router and space the straight edge that same distance away from where you want the edge of the cut to be; it is better to err on the short side and have to mach an adjustment than it is to miss wide.

For a rabbet you can set the guide up once, free hand a couple of passes near the edge of the ply (it is better to make a few shallower passes than it is to try and hog the whole thing out in one pass) and then use the guide for the clean edge cut.

For a dado in the middle of a sheet you can either set up two straight edges like an alley and just clean out every thing between them; or you can set one and make the necessary passes down one side of the dado, then set the guide on the other side and clean out the rest. Using two straight edges makes it easier because you can do both sides and only have to change the depth settings on the router once for each pass.

There may also be situations where you want to scarf an area wider than the offset of the router shoe. In those cases it is better to work from the middle of the cut outward, otherwise you might not leave anything to support the shoe. With just one side of the shoe supported the router can get a little tippy (unless you use perfect technique) so I like to attach a shim the same thickness as the cut depth... I call it an "outrigger"... which helps support the router better. For simple short passes it's less of an issue, but when going around shapes and such when your hands have to cross over it is easier hold things stable and takes less concentration.

Thanks KC! What type of bit should I use? I have two rabbet ting bits, but the max width of the cut is about 1/2. That is the distance between the ball bearing and the blade. If I set up a straight edge, I still need a bit that can make a 3/4 inch Chanel right?

[KCStudly]

For what you are doing I would use a straight cutting bit with no bearing and work flat cutting with the end of the bit, not the edge.

This video shows what I mean. With a 1/2 inch straight cutting bit you will need to make multiple passes.

This guy is entertaining to watch and is prolific at making woodworking videos; in this video he discusses router basics.

[mariannf]

For what you are doing I would use a straight cutting bit with no bearing and work flat cutting with the end of the bit, not the edge.

This video shows what I mean. With a 1/2 inch straight cutting bit you will need to make multiple passes.

This guy is entertaining to watch and is prolific at making woodworking videos; in this video he discusses router basics.

Yes those videos and others helped.
Last question for now if you wouldn't mind. What do you mean by flat cutting with the end of the bit? Once the bit goes down into the wood it looks like it is the edge doing the cutting as you guide it forward. Is there another technique?
Got it about making a fence and then doing a couple of passes to get to the 3/4s.

[KCStudly]

What do you mean by flat cutting with the end of the bit? Once the bit goes down into the wood it looks like it is the edge doing the cutting as you guide it forward.

Well, yes, of course you are correct, sort of. The cutters cut on their diameters as well as their ends. I was trying to describe the difference between using a rabbeting bit, which to my mind cuts from its diameter in a swath, rather than a straight cutting bit, which to my mind mills like an end mill. But of course the straight bit still cuts on its diameter as well.

My point being that in order to make the desired cut with a rabbeting bit, the cutter diameter would have to be twice the width of the cut plus the bearing diameter {(3/4 x 2) + 1/2 = 2 inches). That's a huge bit that would need a big profile router and would not typically be something you would want to handle in a hand held operation.

[mariannf]

What do you mean by flat cutting with the end of the bit? Once the bit goes down into the wood it looks like it is the edge doing the cutting as you guide it forward.

Well, yes, of course you are correct, sort of. The cutters cut on their diameters as well as their ends. I was trying to describe the difference between using a rabbeting bit, which to my mind cuts from its diameter in a swath, rather than a straight cutting bit, which to my mind mills like an end mill. But of course the straight bit still cuts on its diameter as well.

My point being that in order to make the desired cut with a rabbeting bit, the cutter diameter would have to be twice the width of the cut plus the bearing diameter {(3/4 x 2) + 1/2 = 2 inches). That's a huge bit that would need a big profile router and would not typically be something you would want to handle in a hand held operation.

Ok got it thanks KC! I'll take some practice runs!

[mariannf]

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I started cutting the curved framing that will go on the sidewalls. I used spare 1x12, laid it under the wall and traced the wall curve. Then I cut using a jigsaw which I found much easier than a router for this work. the finished framing is about 1x2...which is what i am using through out for framing. I will glue it and screw it on when closer to installation, and then sand it to smooth out imperfections.

[KCStudly]

A couple of pointers; it would be better to use narrower stock... say 1x4... and miter cut them around the curve as you go. You will get less waste that way and the grain will follow around the curve (perpendicular to the radii) more consistently. With the 1x12 you will waste more wood and the grain has transitioned to end grain by the time you got around the curve. It is much more likely to split and won't take a screw as well.

On the jigsaw vs. router; cut the blanks with the jigsaw but go wide of your line by about 1/8 inch. Then after you fasten it to the side, run the router with a top bearing flush cutting bit with the bearing following your nicely sanded wall edge trimming off the excess. That way the blocking will match the wall perfectly, best of both worlds.

[mariannf]

A couple of pointers; it would be better to use narrower stock... say 1x4... and miter cut them around the curve as you go. You will get less waste that way and the grain will follow around the curve (perpendicular to the radii) more consistently. With the 1x12 you will waste more wood and the grain has transitioned to end grain by the time you got around the curve. It is much more likely to split and won't take a screw as well.

On the jigsaw vs. router; cut the blanks with the jigsaw but go wide of your line by about 1/8 inch. Then after you fasten it to the side, run the router with a top bearing flush cutting bit with the bearing following your nicely sanded wall edge trimming off the excess. That way the blocking will match the wall perfectly, best of both worlds.

Thank you KC!

[mariannf]

Hi all,
I have a framing question:
I am planning a cabin light, and I am not sure what is required/suggested for mounting it. can it be secured right to a cross spar? does additional framing need to be built in to the ceiling?
Many thanks!

[dales133]

Just screw it into the spar
And as KC said in his last response,thats exactly how i did my frames and it worked out easy

[S. Heisley]

Hi all,
I have a framing question:
I am planning a cabin light, and I am not sure what is required/suggested for mounting it. can it be secured right to a cross spar?
Many thanks!

Yes. Remember that you will probably have to make a path in the spar for the wires. You don't need much. You can probably drill a hole to run the wires through or route a path with that new router you've got.

does additional framing need to be built in to the ceiling?

Only if you don't already have a spar there.

[mariannf]

Thanks Dale and Sharon!

[mariannf]

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After a hiatus, I have started making the cuts for the doors and windows. I marked their location based on the drawn plan, then based on advice in the forum and examination of the pieces traced them out using the trim ring. All pieces were bought from vintage technologies. I made the cut for the first window using a jigsaw. I cut about 1/8 of an inch inside tje trace mark to assure I didn't make the cut too big. The initial cut was a bit too small so in a very slow process of making adjustments with both the jigsaw and sander I got the first window cut out. There is one more window and two doors.