Lady Bug Winter Warrior - finally campable!

[campingdude]

Can't wait to see it Scott

[RAYVILLIAN]

It's looking great Scott. Can't wait to see it down at LCG or maybe sooner. I've considered real strong on making our next one wider. One question are you going to make the double wall off set at the bottom of the hatch when it is down? Mike and I both did and I've wondered if it was necessary.

Gary

[starleen2]

It's looking great Scott. Can't wait to see it down at LCG or maybe sooner. I've considered real strong on making our next one wider. One question are you going to make the double wall off set at the bottom of the hatch when it is down? Mike and I both did and I've wondered if it was necessary.

Gary

To save weight, I am not going to do the offset, but rather run a 2” curved strip down each side - Molding it in such a way that it blends into the side at the leading edge, but matches the profile of the hatch. This should keep air at towing speeds from getting up under the hatch and provide strong points for latches

[mikeschn]

Which method did you decide on to keep your hatch sides from splaying out, in both the down AND the up position?

Mike...

[starleen2]

Mike,
The wall and hatch construction will be 1/4 ply, 3/4 foam insulation, and 1/8 ply for the interior. The exterior will be fiberglassed along the seams and coated in resin to give it strength.



These T- nuts are what I’m going to used to keep the hatch locked in the upper position with a bolt going through the wood and into the T-nut. I’m thinking about embedding the matching stainless bolt into a wooden knob or plastic handle. When the hatch is down, regular enclosure clamps will do

[RAYVILLIAN]

Great minds work alike. I actually thought of using a strip right after I posted the last time. Don't know why I hadn't thought of it before. It should work fine.
Gary

[mikeschn]

Mike,
The wall and hatch construction will be 1/4 ply, 3/4 foam insulation, and 1/8 ply for the interior. The exterior will be fiberglassed along the seams and coated in resin to give it strength.



These T- nuts are what I’m going to used to keep the hatch locked in the upper position with a bolt going through the wood and into the T-nut. I’m thinking about embedding the matching stainless bolt into a wooden knob or plastic handle. When the hatch is down, regular enclosure clamps will do

That's exactly what I used...

Here is my "Big Bolt"...



The t-nuts were inserted from the inside, and secured with two pan head screws... If you use your imagination a little bit, you can see it in this photo.





Mike...

[Senior Ninja]

Lucky Dog!
Steve

[starleen2]

Here is my "Big Bolt"...



Mike...

Exactly what I was thinkin'

[mikeschn]

[starleen2]

Mrs starleen dubbed it the Lady Bug and that's going to be the name - now for the paint and graphics:

[starleen2]

Today I joined a club - the "I bent wood" club. After constructing the bending Jig, I set out to cut several 1/8 inch thick strips for lamination of the curve for the front section. They turned out very well and very strong (albeit some sanding to level some rough cuts). BTW - Just joined the "whole lotta Clamps " club


Will post a few pictures of the finished ones when they are sanded tomorrow

[starleen2]

Well Here they are plus the bending jig - I let them dry overnight and did a little sanding with a belt sander and - perfect fit

[Miriam C.]

Looks like it worked great! I sure wish you could work double time.

[S. Heisley]

This is a build that I will watch with much interest! You're plans and ideas look great and you've already got the build going gang-busters!

Wishing you much success,