Albuquerque teardrop

[Ron Dickey]

what you are building is similar to my first trailer the boxkite.



I found it helpful to build a box at the front of it to help with air flow. before I had what I called the Uhaul effect. air hitting the front and kinda slowing me down.



the above shot were when it was first made on the left the doors made over night. on the right if you look at the front you will see how the front reduces air disruption. The windows are the ones I talked about.

It sits on an old boat trailer.

Ron

[ChasCABQ]

what you are building is similar to my first trailer the boxkite...
I found it helpful to build a box at the front of it to help with air flow. before I had what I called the Uhaul effect. air hitting the front and kinda slowing me down...
Ron

Good point. My TV blocks the lower front of the trailer and they both have very similar frontal cross-sections and I'll see how it rides.

DOORS AND HINGES ORDERED
I called Frank Bear and ordered two 26x36 doors, and hatch hinge and lock set. He was very helpful and patient making sure I got everything I needed. Parts should be here next Monday.

I thought I was going to make doors and install pre-fab windows and have mulled this over the past two weeks while our usually warm November weather turned extremely cold. I had to get moving again; too long procrastinating.

Soon as it warms up a little in the next few days I'll start cutting spar holders and prepare sidewalls and floor.

[ChasCABQ]

I've made some big changes to my profile and will do final cuts when doors arrive this week. This design adds vents (similar to original design by Capt. Bob's for his teardrop). Vents will have inside louvers or covers and work even when galley hatch is closed. Aerodynamics of the roof are preserved too.

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[KCStudly]

Matches the wagon very well.

[KCStudly]

You may want to thicken up that trailing edge a tad though, just thinking if it is too thin it will sag or curl on you.

[ChasCABQ]

Matches the wagon very well.

That's the general idea. Most CUVs have small spoilers extending beyond their rooflines for improved aerodynamics so why not my trailer. This keeps the hatch hinge out of the airstream and allows for a vented sleeping compartment.

You may want to thicken up that trailing edge a tad though, just thinking if it is too thin it will sag or curl on you.

I plan on using a strip of 3/4" thick plywood under the 1/8" thick birch trailing edge, round the edge slightly, and epoxy-fiberglass it all together when done. I also expect to put vertical supports between each vent opening to brace the upper trailing edge and also under the hatch hinge support. Here's a draft detail (without vertical supports) I've been working on.

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[KCStudly]

[ChasCABQ]

I got off my a$$ and made the cuts for my final profile. I notched out a spot for a 1/2"x28"x60" panel in the front (sturdier than using 1/8" here) and finalized the rear cut. Next is making various roof-to-side and hatch spars as well as cutting openings for new doors. Then I'll assemble the sidewalls and begin on the galley-sleeper divider panel.

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1-IMG_20141128_111011427_HDR.jpg (72.41 KiB) Viewed 2536 times

[ChasCABQ]

I cut four spar supports for the inside top edge of both walls. I started notching them, checking the fit as I went. Next I'll copy the spar slots to the other supports and cut them. Glad I'm using 1/2" thick plywood as I have a hard time moving the various panels. Roof edges will have a 1" attachment strip on each sidewall with these spar supports. Capt. Bob http://www.tnttt.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=20668 of this forum built his trailer this way and shared it with me.

Notched spar support.jpg (79.17 KiB) Viewed 2439 times

[ChasCABQ]

I've realized that my procrastination was due to fear of making mistakes. Now I know it's just wood and can be reshaped or replaced if a mistake is major and minor mistakes can be fixed with wood putty, etc. My woodworking skills are very rusty and my workspace tools are pretty basic BUT that's not an excuse, just a fact that I'm facing and working around. I'm encouraged by many of the other builders here who've done amazing things with similar skills and tools so I know I'll succeed.

My goals for this build: Keep it Simple, use Quality Materials, and reduce weight.
So far I'm on track albeit moving a bit slowly...
But I will get'er done!

PS I'm reminded of what a colleague jokingly told me once regarding construction: "Beat to fit, paint to match."

[ChasCABQ]

Here's my current frame design (roof partially hidden, right side hidden, some details not shown). 1x2 poplar spars will fit in notches in 1/2" plywood attached to sidewalls with glue and screws. Vent openings at rear are not final re: size, shape, number. Anybody see any major issues please comment below.

Frame for vented teardrop.jpg (144.39 KiB) Viewed 2436 times

[KCStudly]

Nice model and rendering.

Whenever possible it is better to run the roof spars "on edge". They will be stronger against bending/sagging that way. Also, depending on the hinge you select for the hatch, you may want to double up or use a 2x2 for the hatch side hinge spar. BTW, many people like to use hardwood for the hinge spars, oak or maple, because there will be a lot of leverage on the screws there and the hardwoods hold screws much better. (Yes poplar is in the hardwood category; no poplar is not hard wood.)

On the subject of hatch hinges, standard practice with a hurricane style hinge is to let the outer piece (IIRC) run long off each side to act as a rain diversion; gets the flow running off the roof or raised hatch out away from the wall where it can't hug the hinge and turn down into the galley. I'm wondering how that is going to work out for you with the hatch nested inside of the wall profile at the top.

I can't imagine that there won't be a scenario where you might want or need to raise the hatch in the rain, and even if you wait for the rain to stop, any beaded water sitting on the hatch will want to run toward the hinge when the hatch is lifted. Something to consider.

[ChasCABQ]

Thanks very much for the great feedback.

Whenever possible it is better to run the roof spars "on edge". They will be stronger against bending/sagging that way.

True, on edge is stronger but they intrudes more into the headroom. On the flat gives more glue surface. Since I've cut the notches flat, I'll have to dry fit it and check the sag.

Also, depending on the hinge you select for the hatch, you may want to double up or use a 2x2 for the hatch side hinge spar.

I agree. See attached detail (Frank Bear hurricane hinge not shown; hinge will bridge gap between hatch 1x2 on left and two 1x2s on right.)

BTW, many people like to use hardwood for the hinge spars, oak or maple, because there will be a lot of leverage on the screws there and the hardwoods hold screws much better.

I'll have to consider that. My current plan is to put 1x2 braces between the curved hatch spars so switching to a oak for all pieces would be a good idea. Nothing cut for that yet. I figure that will be made to fit once walls and dividers are up.

On the subject of hatch hinges, standard practice with a hurricane style hinge is to let the outer piece (IIRC) run long of each side to act as a rain diversion; gets the flow running off the roof or raised hatch out away from the wall where it can't hug the hinge and turn down into the galley. I'm wondering how that is going to work out for you with the hatch nested inside of the wall profile at the top.

See the detail; rain will have a hard time getting to the hinge.

I can't imagine that there won't be a scenario where you might want or need to raise the hatch in the rain, and even if you wait for the rain to stop, any beaded water sitting on the hatch will want to run toward the hinge when the hatch is lifted. Something to consider.

That's true. Good news most of my camping will tend to drier areas. Otherwise I'll have to allow for a little water...

[ChasCABQ]

I'm redoing my spars to "on edge" as suggested by KCStudly above. I'm embarrassed not seeing the benefit/need of increased strength. I was thinking more of the glue area by going on the flat. Now I'll space spars about 9" apart like attached view.

I was originally going to notch the spar supports but now am considering using pocket screws like other builders... Any comments, thanks?

[KCStudly]

No time like the present.