Jeremy from Janesville, WI Build Journal

[5speedsoffury]

Hi all!

Successful weekend thus far! I was able to finish gluing up the top off the floor and then flipped it over for the coating. I used the Gardner's Fibered Roof Coating from HD. I got fed up with trying to dollop it out of the can so I just did the ol pick up and pour. I took a small piece of ply to spread it around and then used a brush to finish the job. I worked it around to get a generous coating applied and even at times my gloved hand. All in all it turned out great!

Next I want to get the walls constructed. I think it's best to go back to sketchup to make some drawings before I move on to cutting. I think my current plan if I remember right was making a classic style Benroy with 18" radius up front and a 36" radius off the back. Im open to input and suggestions and even links to similar builds so I can read their posts. Oh and almost forgot to mention I am looking at a cabin being stick built and utilizing 5x5 Baltic birch panels. I am thinking of at least covering the top in aluminum and am open to ideas for the side. I am interested in filon for sure!

That's it for now!

Jeremy

[5speedsoffury]

Hi all!

So sitting down relaxing trying to get back into the sketchup mood. I crafted up an idea for my front bulkhead and sides. I modified my old drawing and redrew a new sandwiched floor. I still need to redraw the model to compensate for the 3/4" x 2" inch material I am working with. I am thinking of building the front bulkhead of the trailer so it can be assembled separately of the sides. I also would like to do the same with the galley bulkhead. This would make assembly easier in my opinion. I have not yet purchased the teardrop manual but am tempted to. I like the idea of building from the inside out. I am a bigger guy at 6'5" and 230lbs with a back that just does not like to be hunched over. I have seen some builds where the people have built the galley area and then built and installed the walls. I am working with a small shop actual open floor space is limited to the area of the teardrop and a hair more left over to move about tools.

So to break this down:

- I am planning on attaching the walls to the side of the floor.
- I want to build the front bulkhead framing independent from the sides.
- I would like to start with the galley area and cabinets for the living space first as I have two free cabinets my father gave me that I would like to get out of the way in the shop and what better thing to do then get them in their final resting place. Plus the design of the galley really determines many things for the actual construction. So many variables that would be nice to hammer down.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

Jeremy

[noseoil]

Jeremy, that's basically what I did for my build. I made the cabinets so they fit between the walls (front & back) and did a bunch of dry runs prior to the actual assembly with the different parts. The walls sit in a dado or rabbet joint in the deck panel, but the headboard & galley (footboard) cabinets were part of the actual assembly when it was put together. Since I was planning on aluminum skins, I was able to drill pilot holes for drywall screws to make it easier to fasten together & not show a bunch of holes everywhere. I don't own a kreg jig.

I use the old style "layout stick" method of building my cabinets & this helped with the overall assembly as well. Basically, you have a stick which is the exact width of the overall trailer. On it you make tick marks for the walls, panels & framing, dado for the deck & finally the actual cabinet width you will build to inside the walls. If you hit the marks exactly with every step, it has to go together well when it's time to start stacking the sub-assemblies. This allows you to think through each step & make any necessary adjustments before the real assembly starts, no surprises.

The down side is that it does take a bit of patience when building this way. It can seem like endless toil with little or no forward movement at times, when you don't see any real "progress" prior to putting things together. When my buddy came by to help me with the actual build one morning, he said he couldn't believe how "fast" it went together. He didn't realize it took months to do in advance with lots of time spent making the parts.....

[skinnedknuckles]

Jeremy,
I did the same thing building the galley cabinetry first but I had a full size 1/4" luan template that already had my exact locations where everything is going . And off of that template I had the exact height dimensions I just had to work in the width , but that was already figured in with the size of my mattress and floor. I built my cabinets in my basement and kitchen and then they went out in the garage to be attached to the floor and one side, then once all of the cabinets were in I put the other side on to make sure that I had good solid connections. I also attached my walls to the side of my floor and under floor framing. Even after drawing up a full size layout plan on my side template, I didn't realize the actual size of the galley counter top until I put it all together and wow ,was I surprised ,I was very happy I ended up with large counter area. Where were you planning on getting your Baltic birch ply? I am running back up to Madison to Woodcraft today and picking up some 5x5x1/4" for a slide in cooler, there is another place in Madison called Woodworkers supply they are behind the Caterpillar dealer he also has quality wood without voids and his prices are decent but his hours are kinda screwy.
Have fun making sawdust
Paul

[5speedsoffury]

Thanks Noseoil and Paul for your advice and reassurance!

Well tonight the wife and I flipped over the sandwiched floor onto the trailer on which I have the hdpe sheet plastic strips and some more asphalt goop to glue/ allow me to scoot the floor around to its final resting place. I have it held in place right now with clamps and want to get it secured next. I was thinking carriage bolts since they are more readily available compared to elevator bolts. The only other thought I had was using threaded inserts and bolts coming up from below. Whatever I end up doing I will countersink the bolt flush on the topside. I'm hoping to get the floor as level as possible once it is bolted down! It's very close right now.

Ok the wife is bugging me to go to bed . That's all for now!

Jeremy

[skinnedknuckles]

Jeremy,
I used carriage bolts with big washers so they don't pull thru, yes they are readily available but I have had a few instances at work where elevator bolts have broken the flat head right off. But then having said that, my 1943 Studebaker weasel has elevator bolts holding the track grousers to the rubber belting ( 672 per track and there are 2 tracks ) . The idea of threaded inserts (there are 2 different styles 1 with teeth that bite into the wood and the other that take 3 or 4 screws to attach them to the wood ) from the top and bolts coming in from the bottom sounds doable but then remember to Loctite them because if they come loose bye bye bolt . But then something to think about carriage bolts is their tendency to turn if you have to take them out a few years down the road. Fastenal can get you which ever one that you may want to use . Decisions decisions
Just something to think about,
Paul

[noseoil]

Is it possible to bolt the deck down after the box is built? Tony uses this method & it's easier at times to do it that way. May not be possible with your walls & the frame alignment, but it's something to think about. It's easier to drill up from the bottom to fasten the walls to the deck, then drop the whole thing in place once it's done & assembled.

I used elevator bolts also & they worked well enough, but it was very close & I had to grind some of the heads down to fit against the cabin sides the way mine went together. Alignment was sort of difficult doing it by myself last weekend when I dropped it onto the frame, but it worked. If I was doing it again that way, I'd pot the bolts with 5 minute epoxy under the heads when they were aligned with the frame holes & tightened initially, then remove the nuts & lift the deck off. The cabin could be assembled & a good fit would be assured. I would also drill the holes in the frame a tad bigger than I did to make things easier to drop.

I ground down a speed-bore type of bit to countersink & set the bolts flush. Crude but effective.



Just thinking out loud to try to help muddy the waters...

[Mr. Lahey]

Jeremy,

Great work so far!

I'm a newb here from Delavan WI and will enjoy following your build.
Thanks to otheres on the thread for the mention of where to source parts/supplies in our area.

Looking forward to starting my own build in the next few weeks.

Been inspiring to see a neighbors progress

[5speedsoffury]

Jeremy,

Great work so far!

I'm a newb here from Delavan WI and will enjoy following your build.
Thanks to otheres on the thread for the mention of where to source parts/supplies in our area.

Looking forward to starting my own build in the next few weeks.

Been inspiring to see a neighbors progress

Mr. Lahey,

Thank you for your praise! I am working hard at the sketchup model before I go any further. I highly recommend the program as it helps pre-plan those expensive first measurements and cuts. Also don't be afraid to get some quotes on custom built trailers. I think a good fabricator or company could make the platform so much easier than say a bolt together option route like I and many others have taken. The frame itself does not need to be overbearing in strength. The most important is a strong tongue and a straight and true axle mount. I like the service I received from Fabmasters Inc in Janesville and recommend them if you don't have access to metal working equipment. I would have to say that the Ironton trailer I am using is fine. I just am a little OCD and would have liked a little better hardware to put it all together with. I also plan to change out the axle for a torsion axle with brakes. I hope to be able to progress at a decent rate but the financial factor will slow me down especially on the larger purchases. I have access to the wood I will need for free from my father all I have to do is make the 2.5 hour drive to get it.

I'm rambling and super tired but I look forward to you making a build of your own and don't be afraid to ask others for help. All that I have ran across on this forum are super nice and helpful and only hope the best for the fellow teardroppers and tiny travel travelers.

In actual build notes I am hoping to go to fastenal and get some 3/8" elevator bolts. I am thinking 3 across the front and back and then a bolt every other cross member. I plan for the bolts to be drilled down through the crossmember rather than the side rail. Also may put a few down through the center. I know I don't need a bazillion bolts holding the floor down. I'm thinking 9 might be the number. Three on the front three on the wider crossmember closest to axle and three on the rear.


Jeremy

[noseoil]

A single 3/8" #2 grade bolt is rated at 4,900# in shear value. If you go with 8, that's 39,000# of shear value. Think of shear as a pair of scissors trying to cut the bolt in half. I see people using grade 5 or even grade 8 bolts for a deck, but it's not really necessary for strength. Regular hardware type bolts are fine for a deck. You might also consider using some 5 minute epoxy smeared on the under-side of the bolt head, just before dropping them in place & tapping them in. If you do this, it will keep the bolt from spinning in place when you use nylon lock nuts. The fast set stuff is good enough for this type of use & cures quickly. Don't get any on the threads, just coat the bottom side of the bolt head & hammer it in (not the hole in the deck!). That way you only need one person to tighten things up. I just did 2 bolts at a time with the epoxy, since it sets so fast where I live. Once they're all down, you can go back & tighten them & they won't spin in the wood. Works really well & is easy.

I did 9 - 5/16" bolts & ended up with "only" about 30,000# of shear value for my build. It has three along the side rails & 2 in the back at a cross member & one more in the front at a cross member. I also used some foam tape to bed the deck to the frame. It's the stuff used in residential construction for setting wood 2x4 walls on concrete slabs. Makes a nice soft fit & squashes to basically nothing in thickness when the weight & bolts are in place. No squeaks that way later on & feels nice & solid.

[5speedsoffury]

Hi all,

Quick post of my proposed sidewall design. I am open to critique and criticism and especially like praise. All stock I plan 3/4" thick and 2" wide. Please offer any input you may have. I am pretty sure I want to make doors which would allow for a generous size while still staying within proportion. I am wondering if hardwood framing would be the ticket for the doors or just use threaded inserts or go all out and use hardwood and threaded inserts (for mounting door and other fixtures).

Also I have changed my mind again and have settled on putting the walls on top of the floor rather than trying to attach to the side. I like the idea of height (5') rather than interior width. Exterior skin will cover the edge of the floor

Jeremy

[5speedsoffury]

*Edited*
Hi all!

Floor is now bolted down with 3/8" elevator bolts. I used 3 across the front, 2 on the middle crossmember by and 2 on the rear crossmember.

Alright so I have now changed the design back to more of a teardrop shape. I really like this design. Now I just need to transfer it down to some plywood and put my new jigsaw to use or use the router. I am not worried about cutting out the front as that is just a radius. The rear is going to be a lot larger challenge. I was frustrated trying to find large plywood (5x10) and unless I can find some soon I plan to make this out of 4x8 sheets of 3/4" plywood edit *(option found). I just need to decide the type I will pick for this purpose.

Options include

-3/4" x 4' x 8' Premium ACX Plywood $36
-3/4"(23/32) x 4' x 8' BCX Plywood $24
-Roseburg 3/4" (24/32") x 4' x 8' AB Marine Plywood $63
Edit* -Roseburg 3/4" (23/32") x 5' x 10' ACX Fir Plywood $~100
and O so many others. Some guidance would be much appreciated!

Thank you!
Jeremy

[noseoil]

I think the ""best" option is the one that costs the least & still gives a good functional panel. Since the plywood is just a frame (the skeleton for your build), find the flattest, cheapest type & join the edges for the size you need.

I just used wood dowel pins & glue to hold mine together long enough for the inner skin to actually glue & hold it in place. A pin at each joint in the frame is plenty. A butt joint in plywood with glue & a dowel will make a cabinet maker cringe, but it's the skin that locks it in place the way an OSB panel locks a wall together in home building once it's nailed to the 2x4's. Once a skin is glued in place, you'll be surprised at how light & strong the panel is. Prior to skinning, be careful moving it around as it can break at a joint from its own weight, if you aren't careful. Just my $0.02 worth...

[skinnedknuckles]

Jeremy,
I used 4x8 sheets of marine grade plywood to make my sides. At 9' 5" my seam is at the rear in the galley. That way ,once you put the cabinets in, the seam is strengthened. I made a spline out of 7 ply 1/4 " plywood epoxied into a groove cut in with my router. It should be plenty strong enough. If you were to look at it you could not see it as I also have a 3/4" plywood with holes cut in for lightening and then I covered it with 1/8" Baltic birch plywood. When gluing the spline and plywood together I used 2" x 2" angle iron for a backer to clamp to that made sure that the whole thing stayed flat and straps to pull it together ( not tightened too tight but just enough so things stayed flat and together )
Have fun
Paul

[5speedsoffury]

I think the ""best" option is the one that costs the least & still gives a good functional panel. Since the plywood is just a frame (the skeleton for your build), find the flattest, cheapest type & join the edges for the size you need.

I just used wood dowel pins & glue to hold mine together long enough for the inner skin to actually glue & hold it in place. A pin at each joint in the frame is plenty. A butt joint in plywood with glue & a dowel will make a cabinet maker cringe, but it's the skin that locks it in place the way an OSB panel locks a wall together in home building once it's nailed to the 2x4's. Once a skin is glued in place, you'll be surprised at how light & strong the panel is. Prior to skinning, be careful moving it around as it can break at a joint from its own weight, if you aren't careful. Just my $0.02 worth...

Noseoil, thanks for the word of the wise/thrifty. I am debating getting a panel and doing a skeleton cut out rather than any stick framing for the side. It just seems that stick building isn't much lighter if you skeleton out the ply enough. I also would have to either buy the wood or travel 2.5 hrs to my dad to get more lumber for free. I understand the sum of parts strength that you pointed out. That is very important to consider as well. Overbuilding is habit for me so I want to make it right not clumsy and heavy.

Thank you!

Jeremy,
I used 4x8 sheets of marine grade plywood to make my sides. At 9' 5" my seam is at the rear in the galley. That way ,once you put the cabinets in, the seam is strengthened. I made a spline out of 7 ply 1/4 " plywood epoxied into a groove cut in with my router. It should be plenty strong enough. If you were to look at it you could not see it as I also have a 3/4" plywood with holes cut in for lightening and then I covered it with 1/8" Baltic birch plywood. When gluing the spline and plywood together I used 2" x 2" angle iron for a backer to clamp to that made sure that the whole thing stayed flat and straps to pull it together ( not tightened too tight but just enough so things stayed flat and together )
Have fun
Paul

Paul, I am actually aiming for a 5 foot tall camper rather than 4. Both myself and the wife are a tall upper body so the height is important for us to be able to sit up rather than slouch. I hear of some people using MDO but my only concern about that is the formaldehyde in the panel that can be let off in machining and over time. I am really leaning towards the 5x10 3/4" ACX plywood that Menards has to special order but I am tempted to see if Marling lumber has any available at a better price. I just need to call or stop in this week. I have Thursday off again so I want to work more on the project so I would like to have it or pick it up by then. I would still need join on a piece of the drop to finish out the rear curve but one small spice is a cake walk as compared to 2 5 foot splices using 4x8 sheets.

The other option is buying 3 4x8 sheets and doing cutouts like shown but that just seems like overkill on the labor side of things. So many areas to go wrong. Gah! decisions decisions!

Thanks Paul! We should meet up some time and show off our builds (maybe as I progress a little further as mine is pretty boring right now)