You may recall:
capnTelescope wrote:The propane plan is to put a 20# bottle in the tongue box, regulate it down to 30psi, run it through a 1/2" black iron pipe under the floor to the galley, up through the floor, and then to the slider with the stove and oven.
With the stove/oven slider fixed mostly to my satisfaction, all that's left for that is flare fittings and bent tubing. Armed with a flaring tool, tubing bender and plenty of copper tubing, I went at it. Here's what happened:
The loops are there to supply some give from vibration. I think it looks kinda steampunk cool. Too bad this is all behind where it won't be visible.
Hooked it up to the tank in ye olde grille to give it a test:
Success! The high pressure appliances work just fine off the 30psi regulator.
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(EDIT) 7/2/15
I got an excellent question about the propane setup from ukewarrior. Here's my reply:
Hi David,
Thanks for reading my build journal.I hope you've enjoyed it.
I guess I'm asking if there are two regulators going to the stove (not the oven).
The short answer is "Yes." First, the propane goes to a 30 psi regulator(see below), to the plumbing, to the stove's original stock regulator, to the stove. The stove's regulator is built into the propane assembly that screws onto the disposable bottle.
capnTelescope wrote:The propane plan is to put a 20# bottle in the tongue box, regulate it down to 30psi, run it through a 1/2" black iron pipe under the floor to the galley, up through the floor, and then to the slider with the stove and oven. One of the posts in the plumbing and propane leads me to believe that will be enough pressure for the disposable bottle appliances, using their own regulators.
BTW, it worked!
From the propane tank, it goes through a Bayou Classic 0-30 PSI Adjustible Regulator/Hose Assembely which drops the pipe pressure to 30 psi. This is done for fire safety. Better to have 30 psi propane than 200 psi in the pipes. 25-30 psi is enough pressure to work the stock regulators for the stove and oven. From the galley end of your piping, plumb to suit to a male disposable bottle adapter.
RV building codes require a very low pressure (11" WC) propane regulator. These won't work with the stock stove regulator, and there's no workaround if you get this type of regulator.
Hard plumbing is 1/2" black iron pipe. Galvanized piping is thought to flake the galvanizing into the propane stream, eventually clogging your orifices. The gas orifices in your appliances. Not your personal orifices. Added bonus: Black iron is cheaper than galvanized.
Here's a list of the fittings I used. Starting from the galley end of the piping:
[*]Anderson Metals Brass Tube Fitting, Coupling, 3/8" Flare x 1/2" Female Pipe
[*]Flexible propane hose to suit. 3/8" female flare x 3/8" female flare
[*]Plumb to suit: 3/8" male flare to 1/4" FIP (Female Iron Pipe), same thing as FNPT (Fem Natl. Pipe Thread) HoDePo calls it FIP, Amazon calls it FNPT
[*]From the 1/4 FNPT, attach a Mr. Heater F273755 1/4" Male Pipe Thread x 1"-20 Male Throwaway Cylinder Thread Fitting
[*]Screw the cylinder adapter into your stove's regulator.
[*]Attach the stove's regulator to the stove, as you normally do.
[*]Leak test
[*]Cook
Safety concerns:
[*]Always shut off and disconnect propane tank before towing your trailer.
[*]It's a good idea to shut off the propane tank anytime you're not burning propane, in case of small leaks.
[*]I can't say whether or not this setup is legal in your or any other state.
Thanks for your question. I hope this helps.
(/EDIT)