Red Dragons - The Build (Updated 3/17/10)

[dmckruit]

I started my build a few weeks ago. I got a good deal on a Tractor Supply 4'X8' Trailer. The regular price was $299.00, but there was rust on the fenders (I was planning on removing them anyway, but they didn't know that). So they ended up charging me $250.00. I got sent to the the notary down the street for plate and title (Pennsylvania).

These are what I had to start out with:

[toypusher]

Congrats on the trailer. What profile are you using?

And where in PA are ya from?

[dmckruit]

I want to build a Grumman 2 type Teardrop, so I had to do some modifications:

First I had to cut off the fenders. The saws-all that I was using didn't cut the mustard. So I had to make a trek into Home Depot to get a rotary cutting tool. It sliced through the steel like butter. Of course I had to remove the wheels first, which entailed yet another trip into town to the Tractor Supply to get a lug wrench to remove the wheels.

The Tractor Supply Trailer comes with 12 inch wheels. I was able to purchase 15 inch wheels with the tires on them at Tractor Supply for $109.00 each. My fingers were crossed to see if I had enough clearance between the frame and the wheel. The 12 inch wheels on the trailer had 5x4-1/2 lugs and so did the the 15 inch wheels. No problem, the new wheels fit perfectly with plenty of room to spare.

Since I can't weld, nor do I have the equipment, the guys in the maintenance department at my work offered to weld some modifications on my trailer. I made a trip to Jeannette Steel Supply in Jeannette, PA and purchased and 8 foot and a 5 foot section of 2x3" steel rectangular tubing, plus I got another 2x2x6 piece of angle iron to match the one I got at Home Depot. (Note the angle iron was $23.50 at Home Depot and $13.50 at the steel yard). I also got a 6 foot piece of 2 inch flat steel. The total bill at the steel yard was $110.00.

The guys at work did a great job. They extended the tongue 18" and added braces on the sides. They also welded reinforcements to where the tongue attaches to the frame. They added another 8 inches to the front of the trailer with the angle iron, and I had them add the flat pieces of steel diagonally across the back of the frame so that I could use leveling jacks. I did have to buy a new hitch for the trailer as we repurposed the original tongue piece and used it for one of the side braces, and the original hitch had to be cut off. I also added a tongue jack. New hitch $12 and tongue jack $45 at Tractor Supply.

[toypusher]

Looking good so far. You might want to put your 12" wheels in the 'For Sale' section here and see you can sell them (if you still have them and want to get rid of them) because the trailers don't come with spares.

[dmckruit]

Today I cleaned up the frame a bit and sanded any rust spots. I touched up the old paint and primed and painted the new steel additions.

I made a trip to Tractor Supply this morning and picked up some jacks for the rear ($4 a piece) and some wheel chocks. I also stopped at Lowes and picked up 5 treated 2x4 boards and some nuts and bolts and plenty of washers.

I am going to cut the 2x4's in half lengthwise and use them as a subframe which I will attach to the steel frame on top of washers. I need to come up above the 2 inch angle iron so that I can build out.

The wood I picked up was a little on the wet side, so I am going to let it dry out some before I coat it with something. I might cut my pieces if I get a chance tomorrow.

[dmckruit]

And where in PA are ya from?

I am in Sarver, about 25 miles north of Pittsburgh.

[toypusher]

And where in PA are ya from?

I am in Sarver, about 25 miles north of Pittsburgh.

Ok, I'm over in the York area. If you need some help/advise (besides all of it here) you should be able to get ahold of Rich (Nitetimes) as he should not be far from you (Butler).

Keep the pictures coming!!!

[bobhenry]

When you rip your treated lumber you will experience "Grain release"
This curious malady is tantamount to a piece of lumber going crazy if the grain so chooses. Rip it now while it is damp and bolt it down right away. This is no guarantee it will stay straight but it will help to minimize the curving and bowing that it will try and do if left to simply dry. If your treat is ACG ( look at the tag stapled on the ends) You may not want to trap the water in the lumber with a sealer just leave it raw. It good for 10 years in the elements on a deck and your lumber is hideing under a trailer roof. You can always coat the underbelly 6 month or so down the road.

When I ripped 2x12 southern yellow pine lumber for my spars I cut 3 extra just in case, within a week in the sunshine I had to replace 2 of them because of the excessive bowing so I have been there and done that and treated is worse. Just some food for thought

[dmckruit]

After reading the threads about the "five wides" I decided at the last minute to change my trailer frame before I start my floor. My original plan was the Grumman 2 build which would have most of the trailer five feet wide but be only four feet wide at the wheel wells (which I would have to build around). Also, I like the idea of putting a queen size mattress in and not having to cut around the wheel wells, plus sleeping at night and not having to worry about banging my shins.

So I ran out to Tractor Supply again and bought an axle that will fit a 5x8 trailer. I spent today switching out the axle. I also cut treated 2 x 4's for my subframe. At this point, I found I didn't have a 5/16th drill bit for the wood (have one for the steel) to drill my anchor holes and attach the wood to the frame. I will make another trip to town tomorrow to get my bits and 3 more sheets of plywood before I will not be able to use my trailer to haul materials anymore.

[Ken B.]

Did you have to relocate the axle more to the rear of the trailer or was it good where it was? Ken

[dmckruit]

It was pretty much good where it was. The distance from the axle to the rear of the frame is 37" (see sticky for Tractor Supply 4x8 trailer in the "Trailer and Chassis" section). The distance on the Grumman 2 design (See design library) is 39". Because I added a little to the front of the frame, and made the tongue length longer, plus I will be building a little overhang on the floor of the back, the two inches shouldn't make too much of a difference.

I am hoping to get more done on my subfloor this coming weekend. I was taken out of commission for the last couple of weeks with a bad sinus infection.

[GregB]

Aack! You have done something I considered and rejected by putting a longer axle on existing spring perches. I frankly don't know enough to tell how dangerous (if even at all) it is to extend the weight of the wheel assembly farther away from the pivot point at the perch, but you may want to get some feedback from someone who does. Torsion axles, in particular, don't like to do that, but I'm not sure whether or not solid axles have a problem with it.

GB

[bve]

Aack! You have done something I considered and rejected by putting a longer axle on existing spring perches. I frankly don't know enough to tell how dangerous (if even at all) it is to extend the weight of the wheel assembly farther away from the pivot point at the perch, but you may want to get some feedback from someone who does. Torsion axles, in particular, don't like to do that, but I'm not sure whether or not solid axles have a problem with it.

GB

I've been told the perches should not be more than 7" from the FACE of the hub, I'm with Greg get some feedback from the axle manufacturer. It will be a lot easier to deal with it now rather than later.

[dmckruit]

Thanks for the heads up guys. I wasn't sure if the extra 6 inches on each side of the axle would make a difference. After thinking about it for a few days and researching the web (which I couldn't find much information) I decided to put the old axle back on. I felt it was better to be safe than sorry and have to do major mods to the frame after the tear was built if it didn't work out right.

No worries, Tractor Supply took the axle back and I was able to get a jack and some other tools. Still trying to level up the subframe before I can put the subfloor down. Didn't get a chance to work on it today. Hope to have more pics posted soon.

Thanks again for watching my back on the axle.

[dmckruit]

Spent the last few days making the subfloor. The Tractor Supply frame was far from being perfectly level. The back right hand side was also about an inch lower than the rest of the frame. I ripped treated 2x4's to about 2 inches in thickness and used extra shims as needed to level off above the metal angle irons. I placed metal washers between the wood and the frame and bolted with 2-1/2 - 3 inch 5/16 hex bolts.

You can see from the pictures the extra spacers I needed for the back of the trailer. She is all level now! I am going to build a sandwich floor using treated lumber for the bottom and regular plywood for the top. I will wait until spring before I apply the undercoat to the treated lumber as I want it to completely dry out.