Standie! or Another Puffin Clone

[cappy208]

i called northern. they said i had to go to the nearest store (Va.) and its not worth it to drive 20 hrs rt to go get one.

tractor supply says they dont carry a 5x8 carryon nf trailer. harumph!

i have a design for a conventional modified scotty, but having settled on a 5' x 5' x 10' long it will just overhang the 4x8 frame. so i'm settling for that!

I sort of dont want a 5' wide trailer anyway, since it will be wider than the tow vehicle. Having the trailer the same width as the suv is in my overall plans.

After looking at your pics for the umteenth time, how did you support the cantilevers over the frame side? I didnt see any specific supports. is the plywood floor itself the side wall support and the side walls screwed to a 2x4 from the side and bottom? How is long term support for the side walls made?

it appears the 2x3 you have for floor stringers (to bring the ply up to the top of the angle iron) dont extend beyond the sides of the frame. is this so? and seeing the 'notch' you made in the stringer to fill the difference between side and cross angles is just the ticket to fill in, and not increase the height unnecessarily.

Thanks for the helpful info.

John

[shopfabricator]

Hey John. Sorry, I didn't know that all NT stores do not carry the same inventory. Is it a State Regulation Thing? Seems they could order the thing for there next trailer delivery if the handle the Carry-On Line.
You are right about the floor being cantilevered over the sides over the sides of the frame. About 8" on each side. The framing under is ripped 2x4 to support the floor to the top of the 2x2 angle iron of the frame. The sides and floor are framed together with 1x2.
This is a shot of the side wall to floor frame in the porta-potty closet. Sloppy Painter!



I seem to remember this being discussed before, be it some time ago. Since the cantilever is so small and the chance of standing weight on the edges of the floor is minimal, all works well.
This size and style of Camper has been built on a 4x8 Harbor Freight 8" wheels Trailer with 12" (or more!) overhang and no under floor support. In fact it was the original "Puffin" by Steve Wolverton! (Thanks Steve, your middle name must be TTT!)

Now, having said all that, my last trailer was a 10' long standie with insulated walls and aluminum clad. On that 5x8 nf I did add "outriggers" to carry the weight outside the frame. I believe that was overkill. Page 10 of my album has pics of that trailer prep.

So what ever you decide, Good Luck with your build and Take Lots Of Pictures!
Gary

[shopfabricator]

Been a while since last update. I have been working on the build, weather and Puppy will slow things down.
Short list to finish:
Install Windows
Paint Accent Trim Design (have not decided on that yet, Any Ideas?)
Go Under and Seal Sides below Floor and Wheel Wells (More Black Gunk)
Run Trailer Light Wire and Install Lights
Trim Door and Install Lock Set and Dead Bolt
Add Mattress, Blanket and Blender.... Go Camping!



Some Interior Pics using the interior lights and no flash to see actual wood finish color. I used the Window Openings to take these shots.





Gary

[S. Heisley]

This is a BIG step up from the Puffin! It really does look bigger. It's nice looking. It appears to be well thought out, and well engineered. You're doing a beautiful job!

[shopfabricator]

Thanks Sharon and Happy Thanksgiving!

[Chris D]

Man SF,

That looks sweet!! Nice workmanship. What brand of enamel are ya using it looks like fiberglass Happy Thanksgiving.

Chris D

[shopfabricator]

Thanks Chris!
I am far from an expert on painting, just see some recent posts!
The paint I am using is Valspar Professional Industrial Maintenance Enamel. I picked this stuff up at Northern Tool when I bought the trailer.
After I sealed the camper in epoxy, I power sanded with 120 grit. I then mixed up body filler to fill the screw holes, gouges, knots, anything that looked deep. First two coats were enamel thinned about 20% with paint thinner and applied with a foam roller. Then I sanded by hand Lightly just to knock off any high spots and smooth out all the little BUG FEET! Then two more coats straight from the can. Found that this stuff is pretty thick, and drys overnight without sags and runs. It also doesn't care which direction it is rolled. I rolled mostly in the direction of the grain and it did a pretty good job of filling it. Hope this helps!
Gary

[shopfabricator]

Wow, Just read the can of paint. Little late! Can states "NOT FOR RESIDENIAL USE". Huh, what, no..... Reading further down in the directions (the what?) it says "Do no thin" and "Clean tools in mineral spirits". Can't see a problem with thinning.
Oh Well........
Gary

[Chris D]

Thanks Gary,

I know this paint, I is very good enamel and I also do not see any problem with thinning it at all.

Chris D

[grizz]

I think instructions are often aimed at protecting the manufacturer, and also their profit line.
When I used to be a nurse 18 years ago, we used to sit on night shift and cut all the blood glucose test strips in half, to double the use per pack for the pensioners we nursed.

[shopfabricator]

Soooo Close to Done. Needs Door Trim, A/C Intake Grill and Lights!





I put the camper up on jack stands and rolled under her with my can of Black Goop to get a nice heavy coat on all the seams and to make sure everything was sealed good. I turned over and found Samantha was underneath with me to inspect my work. Of course her big floppy puppy ears were in the goop!



I cleaned all I could off, but the rest will just have to wear off.

[Chris D]

Dem Dawgs are like that Gary. Sam just wants to be by her dad.

The trailer looks really nice. I like the black and red with the white perfect balance.

Chris D

[grizz]

Happy dog at your feet. NICE !

[Ageless]

Man; gotta love that interior! Nice finished wood has a major drool factor

[Miriam C.]

Nice Job SF. You should be completely done in time for camping season.