Ians first build

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Ians first build

Postby ian.allen2 » Fri Mar 04, 2011 8:40 am

Hi all, I have started my TD. Here is the trailer chassis I will be mounting it on. Needs a bit of work doing to it.
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The 'A' frame will be made stronger
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Headboard will be removed and total length shortened by about 9 inches from the back.
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I have started to shape the sides
First side cut
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Marking out the second side
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Other side now cut
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I did buy a new B & D pendulum Jigsaw with quick release blade clamp. They are crap as the blade is not clamped in strong enough and kept coming out after a 2mm cut. I reverted back to my old one.

I have to buy a belt sander now to square up the edges. I will clamp the sides together and sand them down so they are equal, flat and smooth with a 90 degree angle.

I have marked out a door on one side and will cut this out later. Dont know whether to have a door on both sides. Having another door means everything doubles, ie. 2 sets of hinges, door knobs, locks, weather trim, and double the option for leaks from rain :o . At the mo, just one door and the one nearest the door gets climbed on by other person escaping.

Lovely day today as well, but cant carry on with the build until I get a belt sander.
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Postby Woodbutcher » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:11 am

Looks like you have got a good start. Post up often and let us follow along! Good luck with your build and enjoy the process!
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Postby racer152 » Fri Mar 04, 2011 1:34 pm

Is it a visual illusion...or is the frame bowed front to rear??
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floor

Postby mvperini » Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:57 pm

only advice i can give you is make sure you replace that seasoned floor. :lol: :lol: , keep the pictures coming


Mike
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Postby starleen2 » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:09 pm

Do yourself a favor - Grease those wheel bearings before you you get it out on the road. Sure would hate to have a bearing failure on an older trailer
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Postby ian.allen2 » Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:31 am

racer152 wrote:Is it a visual illusion...or is the frame bowed front to rear??



Floor is bowed from axle towards the back. This will be straightened and about 9" cut off. Floor will be straight after that.
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Re: floor

Postby ian.allen2 » Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:35 am

mvperini wrote:only advice i can give you is make sure you replace that seasoned floor. :lol: :lol: , keep the pictures coming


Mike



Floor is very mopssy and slippy. Wouldnt it be best to leave it there, If left in place, you could 'slide' in to bed easy, and with the hole ( I mean 'ventilation' ) at the back end, there is ample air circulation. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby ian.allen2 » Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:38 am

starleen2 wrote:Do yourself a favor - Grease those wheel bearings before you you get it out on the road. Sure would hate to have a bearing failure on an older trailer



The trailer has been standing on an allotment for a few months and the bearings will be well greased before it goes on the road. I am thinking of putting alloy wheels on it, something like Mag Slots / wolfrace wheels.

It needs new tyres as the tread is great but there are cracks in between the treads.

I am also thinking of getting another chassis frame. Looking on internet sites for options.
Ian
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Postby ian.allen2 » Thu Mar 24, 2011 5:26 am

Here is an update of what I have done so far.
Stripped the chassis down and turned it over to work on welding a stronger drawbar onto it
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Then I removed the angle iron frame
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I then extended the drawbar as it wasnt long enough
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Then added strength bars
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Here, you can see the extension welded and bolted in place and a cross piece to bolt the body onto
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Then I placed the floor on to the chassis as this needs cutting down to the length of the sides
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Then I fitted the sides
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The corners of the cut-offs are 90 degrees so this makes sure the sides are at the right angles.

The thing now though, I have changed my mind about the chassis and it is now on ebay and I am buying a caravan chassis complete with brakes.
The width of the chassis rails on the caravan is 49" which leaves a 1/2" lip along the edge of the body. I will leave as is and add a 'skirt' to the bottom of the walls. It will also help hide screws.

:D

I have yet to cut the doors out and make the hatch frame.
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thick

Postby mvperini » Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:01 am

Question
how thick is the plywood for the side walls?, sure looks like overkill and the added weight? :thinking:

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Postby ian.allen2 » Thu Mar 24, 2011 12:33 pm

Sides are 19mm. I used them as I only paid £6 per sheet and didnt want to buy any thin and make frames for the sides.
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Postby CliffinGA » Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:24 pm

Ian looks good and thanks for the tip on the cut off pieces, thats going to help me this weekend on mine if the rain holds off.

Cliff
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My Build:

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Postby tsmiley23 » Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:47 pm

Hi Ian,

I was glad to read this: The thing now though, I have changed my mind about the chassis and it is now on ebay and I am buying a caravan chassis complete with brakes. :twisted:

That old trailer had me a bit worried and you obviously have the skill to build a really nice unit on the right frame. Good luck and enjoy your build, I will!!! :D
CONSISTENCY!!!!!! It's only a good thing if you're not a screw up.
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Postby LDK » Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:10 pm

I really like the profile you're going with.
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Postby ian.allen2 » Fri Mar 25, 2011 10:37 am

Thanks for all the replies. Looks a bit dusty out side as I have been playing with the router ( what a wonderful invention) I have cut the door out and routed out the windows and routed a recess for the perspex/acrylic. I will silicone these in and fix the rim/frame on the outside. I have made some round window frames for the outside. I cant believe the price of them. Cheaper to make when have a router. :D I have also sanded the side down ( side with the door) to see what it will be like ready for painting. Turns out nice and smooth.

Door cut out
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Window cut out opposite door
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Door window cut out with recess for perspex
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Window frames routed out. Will be fixed on out side
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What it looks like on door (not fixed yet)
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Recess routed out ready for perspex window. I will have these cut to size next week. Already phoned the shop and it will cost £10 per pane.
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The router I used for the windows. Bought very cheap of ebay as were the top quality bits.
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