subaru teardrop build

[queeg9k]

Hi, here is a drawing I made for my teardrop build. I just found a donor car to cut up, and am eager to get going. I would love any feedback anyone has on some of the trickier parts. I would like to use the donor cars rear suspension and brakes, any tips on what to do with the diff?

[queeg9k]

saving space.

[Thomcat316]

Oh, the irony - I'm building mine ultralight to tow behind a 1997 Subaru, and you're making one from a Subaru...

I LOVE this place!!!

[GuyllFyre]

Rear diff?
Remove it and sell it.
Pull the axles out of the hubs and find large bolts the same size and bolt the hubs back together with them. Most hub bearings need the preload from the axle bolts to hold them together properly.

If you don't want to find large bolts, take the ends off the axles and bolt them back in place.

Without the diff and axles, you'll save a few pounds.

[glenpinpat]

I would not call it a tear but. The brakes are not going to be any good cz they work on a hydraulic sytem and you need a electric system. To do this you will probably need to replace the axle with a trailer axle which will take care of the differential. This unit will be very heavy, heavy enough that you could tow a traditional camper easier.

[GuyllFyre]

You can get a hydraulic actuator for the brakes.

[Thomcat316]

Well, the whole car is ca. 2800 lbs., and he's scrapping a LOT of it... I think the bigger challenges will be getting the tongue weight under control and getting a soft enough set of springs for the rear that it won't bounce down the road like a ball. Luckily you can get custom-wound springs without a mortgage.

As for brakes, I would imagine one could use a surge "controller" to actuate the stock brakes, or a decent race/fab shop could install stub axles with trailer brake mounts in the place where the rear wheel bearings once lived, and electric drum brakes could be used. If you're going for anything custom that involves machining, have them make an extra set for "ten years later" - not much extra cost, but beats having to do it again from scratch.

Have said race shop advise you about which metal bits can be removed without compromising the structure - side-impact door beams, for example, ain't needed in a trailer, and windows might be able to be raised and lowered without actuators. The lighter it is the easier it tows, eh?

[bobhenry]

and they called me crazy

[queeg9k]

Thanks for all the input guys. Saving weight is the name of the game, If I don't need it cut it out!! Before I start hacking it apart I plan to put in some temporary bracing to keep it all square. Cutting out the floor pans and drive shaft tunnel so I can have a flat surface on the inside. Replacing it with plywood. Tongue weight is a big concern, my car is rated to hold 200# on the tongue an pull I think it was 2000#. I am worried that the trailer wheel placement may be a little to far back, putting too much weight on the tongue. Wont know till I start cutting stuff up. Moving the wheel wells forward is possible but no fun, and I will lose the ability to utilize stock suspension components.

Am I nuts for wanting to try this for my first trailer build??
Maybe, but how sweet will this thing look rolling down the freeway!!

[glenpinpat]

i think it will look cool when done depends what your budget is.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I love the enthusiasm! But without knowing your fabrication capabilities its hard to say whether this can be accomplished or not.

Where theres a will, theres a way!

[queeg9k]

I love the enthusiasm! But without knowing your fabrication capabilities its hard to say whether this can be accomplished or not.

Where theres a will, theres a way!

I am the Mechanical Supervisor at a bulk mailing company, I am mechanically competent with a little fabrication experience. I am not a good welder but I am a good grinder! I am also getting a lot of support from i-club.com (a Subaru car club I am a member of) about some of my diff questions. The cosmetic stuff I will knock out myself, structural stuff I am friends with a professional welder/machinist.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Sounds like you should be alright then! I've been on i-club a few times, but I used to spend a lot of my time on legacygt.com and subaruoutback.org.

Definitely looking forward to seeing this build happen!

[High Desert]

Looks fun. And it can be done, it's been done before with other makes. I'd think if you concentrate on loosing any un-needed pieces (i.e. window mechs for back windows) and keep all the heavy stuff behind the axle you can make it work. Factory glass is heavy, maybe consider plexi or sheet metal for some of the window locations? Good luck!

[queeg9k]

I bet the windshield is HEAVY as #@*&

I would like the door glass to remain functional so I can roll them down in warm weather. The rear passenger door glass is the smallest, so lose the fronts if it comes down to a few pounds putting me over my 200# tongue limit.

Moving the axle forward is always an option too. Just a lot of work. If that is the case I would probably switch to a conventional trailer axle as I would lose all the stock suspension points.