This is an original design, hand built metal frame. Everything except the axel and the metal for the actual fender I built. Welded with a little mig cracker box from HomeDepot or somesuch. I'm proud of that part. It has been really hard. The one thing I didn't think about was the difference between dimensional lumber and tubing. Tubing is 1" if it is called out as 1". Wood is 3/4" if it is called out as 1", 23/32" if it is called 3/4" etc. But a friend has helped me with all the cabinetry and I think we are on track to finish by the end of the month.
Updated with annotations on pictures.
Here are some picts in build order:
All the angle for the main frame was donated by my dad. L3x3x1/4 with heavy dipped galvanizing. Not the best stuff to work with but should last forever. What Dad didn't mention was that they all had about a 1.5" camber over 10'. Which had to be "worked" out. That's why there is a heavy chain across the corners in this shot.
I bent the side profile by working the tubing around a jig I cut out of 3/4" plywood.
The downside is I ruined about 3 pipe clamps getting it done.
Cabin frame nearly done.
main cabin frame done with bottom steel attached. I did this by myself and I gotta say, wrestling that into shape without ruining the sheet metal was a hassle
Main frame with axle installed. It is movable incase the weight distribution needs to be tweaked later.
Wiring installed, licensed, and subfloor installed.
Interior was 1/4" nominal luan. I think it was actually labeled 5mm? I ruined 3 pieces getting that curved bit in. Two were ruined in a thunderstorm before I got to the garage, another just due to me rushing the bend.
Random picture of interior framing. The piece in the foreground is the front edge of foot locker, middle piece is for wall between kitchen and bed. Far back is back edge of kitchen cabinet.
Fender! I did the painting with a couple of cans of rustoleum and some tape!
A buddy works for a company that builds sets, tradeshow booths and all kinds of cool stuff. I needed space, he was willing to help. Thank goodness!
Interior foot locker/kid bed on top.
Kitchen with counter down,
Hatch down, I'm working on tightening the license plate light.
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Updated pictures
I've found that spray in expanding insulation is a pain to cut down when it expands beyond what you need. We spent an hour or two having to sand down my "boogers" where the foam expanded more than we wanted. Even with a hot knife it wasn't easy going.
The skin is galvanized steel. For cost and availability it was the best I could do. Because the frame is steel I was afraid of galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and steel. The only fix would have been to install VHB barrier tape between the frame and skin. That would have brought the skin cost to something like 1500 with the bent trim I used. Here's how it worked out:
If you are cutting any type of thin gauge steel (thinner than 20ga) I'd recommend a nibbler. From Harbor Freight they are only about $30 and made short order of cutting out these shapes. Kerf is wide, about 1/8" but the edge wasn't razor sharp like a pair of shears would do.
This is one of the sides cut. There is that one narrow bit that worried us but it all ended up being just fine with enough hands.
admiring our work and discussing the strategy for the roof. We only had one shot at this. There weren't any extra pieces and HD doesn't carry stuff like this.
After all the work (we were in the shop till 1am) this is what it looked like the next day. I have to keep reminding myself that the glossy, shiny finish won't last.
Reverse glamor shot.
