Weekender status - 1st camping (update 10-21-12)

[mtrmth]

Everyone Starts somewhere! Looking good. I'm building a Small trailer now as a predecessor for my Big build later this year.

I'm actually going to build a trailer instead of buying one. I came across a 3500#, 4" drop axle with Brakes on craigslist for $50. Can't beat that with a stick.

Hope to see more soon! Good luck on the build.

M<

[les45]

After some distractions, I finally started construction of my weekender this week. After hearing horror stories about delivery damage and missing parts, I was relieved to see everything in good shape and nothing missing. I guess it helped that the NT distribution center was only about 100 miles away in Ft. Mill, SC. The assembly was pretty much straightforward until I got to the part where you flip the frame to install the axle and springs. I didn't have a helper that day so I kept the frame upright and did it upside down from the directions with the help of a trolley jack. Actually I think that might have been easier than flipping it even if I had a helper. I did not install the lighting or fenders at this time. I plan to run the trailer wiring in conduit through the cabin and all my lights will be mounted on the shell. Also I plan to replace the round fenders with angular fenders to match the lines of the weekender. I replaced the grease in the hubs with something called "Red and Tacky". It is a high temp grease favored by a lot of boaters. Also replaced the painted coupler with a zinc plated Reese coupler. Just a cosmetic issue there as I think the light coupler looks better with the black frame. One minor problem with the coupler that I'll explain in the pics below:

Boxes received in good shape:


All the parts:


Squaring the frame:


Different coupler (while the main horizontal bolt holes lined up OK, the vertical or top bolt holes were off just enough
that the one 1/2" bolt that was to be installed there would not go; instead, I installed two 7/16" bolts)


This is as far as I go with the frame for now. Sawdust starts flying next with the installation of the floor.

[KCStudly]

Nice start. Good to hear that the saw dust will start soon...your garage is far to tidy for my sensitive eyes!!!

[PcHistorian]

@mtrmth , congrats on the craigs-list buy. (you couldn't get tires for that little. LOL!!!)

@les45
On your build, good thing I caught you this soon. LOTS of people here are talking and going "foamie," now. 2" foam walls and roof instead of plywood. They say stronger, lighter, cheaper, warmer, cooler, easier to work with, more forgiving. I'd check out the forum and read it through before going ahead with that part of your build. It shouldn't effect your exterior design shape at all. In fact I'd say without the curve(s), your design is more foamie-friendly. (challenging to curve/bend that thick of foam)
I've been kidding them they need to ballast the build with beer kegs so it will track steady and not float away. ;-)

I have some "angular" wheel wells I'm getting rid of. Too small for my tires. Check my page.
If you're interested, let me know. I'll save them for you.

What are the laws for "Must have" wheel wells and/or mud flaps?"
Do they vary from state to state?

[les45]

@mtrmth , congrats on the craigs-list buy. (you couldn't get tires for that little. LOL!!!)

@les45
On your build, good thing I caught you this soon. LOTS of people here are talking and going "foamie," now. 2" foam walls and roof instead of plywood. They say stronger, lighter, cheaper, warmer, cooler, easier to work with, more forgiving. I'd check out the forum and read it through before going ahead with that part of your build. It shouldn't effect your exterior design shape at all. In fact I'd say without the curve(s), your design is more foamie-friendly. (challenging to curve/bend that thick of foam)
I've been kidding them they need to ballast the build with beer kegs so it will track steady and not float away. ;-)

I have some "angular" wheel wells I'm getting rid of. Too small for my tires. Check my page.
If you're interested, let me know. I'll save them for you.

What are the laws for "Must have" wheel wells and/or mud flaps?"
Do they vary from state to state?

I appreciate the suggestions, but I am past the point of no return on my floor and walls. I was able to buy 3/4X4X8 cabinet grade plywood at Home Depot for $29. Based on the prices of the other parts that it would take for a foamie wall, I don't believe you can buy them for less than the plywood. Also, the amount of work between the two is no comparison. I decided to go without insulation on walls and floor since we are fair weather campers and will mostly be out in fall and spring. I am doing full 2" foam construction for the top and ends to mitigate the effects of the sun during the day. I've calculated my total empty shell weight (with manufactured doors) at 575 lb mounted on a 265 lb trailer that is rated for 1,700 lb. I'm towing with a V8 Durango so the total weight is not an issue for me. I estimate that I'll probably be hauling a little over 1,100 lb loaded, but some things like spare tire and tool box will be in the back of the Durango.

I already have my fenders also. I have an old Harbor Freight 4X8 with the old style flat fenders. I think they will be perfect for the weekender. I'm just going to swap fenders between the two trailers.

I'm not sure what the laws are here in South Carolina concerning fenders and mud flaps, but I suspect that they are pretty lax. I see trailers all the time with no fenders, lights, or tags in my area. I'm sure they vary considerably by state, but apparently they just aren't enforced as much in some states.

Stay tuned, I hope to have floor pics up this weekend.

[PcHistorian]

someone suggested a stone look covering to me, that I think I will do the remake of the wheel covers out of. I'm just trying trying to decide now that considering the substance/look, if I should do the piece that covers the outside face of the wheel, as well? And how to attach it so I can still change the tire.

[les45]

Whoever said that a weekender could be built in a weekend must have had a habitat crew helping out. It took me more than a weekend just to do the floor. I will point out here though that I am a retired engineer with a touch of OCD so I tend to take longer to do everything. I'm just too picky. The floor of my 5X8 was two sheets of 5/8 plywood sheathing. Pretty much a standard cut and bolt operation. I will point out that these DIY trailers require a few extra touches when bolting the plywood. I had to drill holes in the plywood for the bolt heads in the frame and I glued wood shim strips over each crossbar to keep from getting that sag in the center due to the overlap where the metal cross bars fit into the perimeter channel. I ended up using carriage bolts and nylon lock nuts and found that the carriage bolts tend to turn in plywood. I ended up using my Dremel tool to cut screwdriver slots in about 3/4 of the bolt heads (this is also a good way to remove one that is turning on you). This was also a problem when trying to tighten the bolts that are near the center where you can't reach with both hands. I rigged up a third hand to deal with this as you can see in the pics. For an undercoat, I used Henry's #107 asphalt emulsion since it was the only thing available in my area in one gallon containers. Didn't notice until I got it home that it is not made for use on plywood. I was concerned that the liquid in the emulsion would delaminate the plywood so I applied a two coats of Zinsser primer before applying two top coats of the Henry's. I think that should be enough. I'll paint the top side later with some type of exterior latex enamel to make it smoother and watertight.

Here are the two panels cut and dry fitted (finally found some use for the wife's 35 lb kettle bell)


Gluing wood shims over crossbars


Hole drilled for frame bolt head and end of crossbar shim strip being glued


Two coats of Zinsser primer (forgot to get a pic of the final Henry's topcoats)


Screwdriver slot cut in carriage bolt head


Third hand used to keep internal carriage bolts from turning


Closeup of third hand


Floor installed

[parnold]

I love the third hand!

Good progress!!

[PcHistorian]

secret to the "weekender" is that yes you have the habitat full crew and tools assembled. But also, everything must be bought, sized, cut, painter (primed) and organized, so that there is only the assembly to do. If you are going to do all that prep work, alone, as you go, then it will take considerably longer.
;-)

beautiful job. I was going to suggest, use a pipe on the wrench handle for underneath and screw by hand on top then. I think you did better though. (improvise, adapt, overcome: heart-break ridge.)

[Armed Patriot]

Thanks for the idea on how to extend the frame. Northern Tools has replacement frame crossmemebers for sale $79.95 (FT 125692-2) so you dont need to use wooden crossmembers. My second frame is due today, first was detroyed by Yellow Freight and sent back. Hope this ones ok... itching to start mine.

[PcHistorian]

Good luck "armed." Now that you've had so much extra time to get all your materials together, you can probably just assemble in a weekend. :-)
That does sound like a great deal though.

[les45]

As I stated previously, trailer weight is not an issue with me so I'm probably offending some of you by overbuilding nearly everything. Since the floor and cleats are critical to securing the entire superstructure, I used 2X4's on the sides and 2X6's on the ends. I beveled the edges of the end cleats about 33 degrees to match the bottom bevel on the weekender body. Since I couldn't find 4X10 plywood anywhere in the Southeast, I bought three 4X8 sheets of 3/4" cabinet grade at HD and spliced enough to make my overall 10' length. I decided to make the splice in the center of the door opening so I have just a really short section top and bottom to sand smooth. Cutting the walls was pretty much straight forward and I used the inner ring from the Vintek manufactured doors as a template for cutting the door opening. Again, I developed several "third hands" to help set the walls in place and to install the spars. I applied two coats of Zinsser primer to the bottom edges of the walls and the ledge and cleat where the walls fasten. Also applied a bead of silicone window caulk along the bottom of both side cleats. I installed most of the spars on the front half to start firming up the walls, but left my temporary cross bracing for now.

All cleats fastened to plywood deck with 1/4" bolts.


Ends of side cleats and sides of end cleats beveled 33 degrees to match bottom bevel of weekender body.


Gluing lap splice in plywood.


The corners are cut. Starting to take shape.


Inner door ring used as template to cut door openings.


Primered and caulked ledge and cleat.


The walls are up!


Third hand used to hold walls in place.


Third hand used to hold spars.


Spars installed in front half.


Rear view of walls and spars.


Another third hand for temporary wall supports.

[prodart]

very nice, coming along great

[dano]

Wow what a lot of progress. Looks great!!

[PcHistorian]

Yeah! There's a leap! (or is that a bound?) Hard to take pictures and post while progress is being made. I'm getting behind on that one, plus had to take a day out and do work and maintenance on my truck. (I have a happier tow vehicle now though, does that count towards the ttt? ;-) Lots of good technique on yours. I'm going to take some notes on build technique. :-)