Foamie Plans EVOLVE into Truck Cap TTT - BUILD JOURNAL

[JDHIV]

The front window of a truck cap is generally protected somewhat by the truck cab. You might want to think about a protective cover for it in transit. It would also make a nice sun shade and rain protection so the window could remain open at any time.

Thanks BH!!

I was kind of thinking the same thing beginning an hour ago. Any suggestions or ready-made things I could adapt? I was thinking of putting a drip cap over it like the rear door/wall has..and then was daydreaming about a bumped out bubble window or something that could be lifted up when I want ventilation...then I could just install screen over the two little sliders in my front window...maybe paint the top of such a bubble and then be able to raise it up for ventilation??

_John

[working on it]

The flowable silicone should be used to seal gaps (or porosity) between the slider gasket and the metal frame around it, not the glass itself. It doesn't set quickly, so watch for using too much. When set, the window should slide like originally designed. On the front seal, a cover would be nice to have, as truck cap sliders (primarily made for side installations) are usually of thinner glass than windshields, and the gasket may not be able to hold the window in place against the air pressure found at highway speeds (not to mention road debris).

[JDHIV]

The flowable silicone should be used to seal gaps (or porosity) between the slider gasket and the metal frame around it, not the glass itself. It doesn't set quickly, so watch for using too much. When set, the window should slide like originally designed. On the front seal, a cover would be nice to have, as truck cap sliders (primarily made for side installations) are usually of thinner glass than windshields, and the gasket may not be able to hold the window in place against the air pressure found at highway speeds (not to mention road debris).

Thanks WOI !

I will be doing something to cover the front window for traveling...just not sure what yet.

ALL 3 windows are going to get a "drip cap" (not sure the right term) screwed in above them with some type of flap type of cover that can be raised up kind of like an awning when stationary...details on that still to be figured out.

Also, I was in contact with a local dealer about maybe just replacing the rubber seals...I'm still waiting to hear back on that one. But, my cap is likely from the early 1990's and so many things about it are no longer available due to supplier changes and such...we'll see!

_John

[JDHIV]

PROTECTING LEAKY TRUCK CAP WINDOWS????

I plan to use some type of "drip cap" or drip edge or C/U-channel material screwed into the cap above each window to divert rain such as the following:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-Hom ... h71iD_pyO4

My current plan could be to use rope caulk weatherstripping in between this rain diverter channel and the cap....but also I would sandwich in some material as a flap that would hang down over the windows when traveling/raining but could be rolled or lifted up as a sun shade when needed.

The best I can come up with now is a heavy duty vinyl shower curtain that will be cut to fit and if I want opacity I can spray one side with truck-bed-spray or rubberized undercarriage spray..........ONE ISSUE THOUGH is how such a material would flap/flutter like loose tie-down straps at highway speed and maybe come loose?????

WHAT DO ANY OF YOU THINK about window covers/protection........especially for the front sliding window since it is exposed and up front to take the brunt of highway travel abuse ?????????????

Thanks!!!!

_John

[JDHIV]

TRUCK CAP IS ON !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SEE PICS BELOW: (a little grainy from cellphone use and beer consumption )











NEXT STEPS....bolt cap down into walls and in 4 places all the way down through floor with threaded rods....then 1/4" outer plywood skin (to be painted to seal it)...as well as sealing up the small gaps between cap and top rail....and etc...

_J

[rebapuck]

I've used the "flowable" sealant on my vehicles too. Don't cut a big opening in the tip and don't squeeze too hard, at first.

[JDHIV]

I've used the "flowable" sealant on my vehicles too. Don't cut a big opening in the tip and don't squeeze too hard, at first.

Thanks Rebapuck!
_J

[pjo129]

Great work!

I use a 15 passenger Chevy Van as a windscreen for the front window on "The Patrol Box".

[JDHIV]

Great work!

I use a 15 passenger Chevy Van as a windscreen for the front window on "The Patrol Box".

Nice Pete!!!! I thought you had a Merc. Grand Marquis (or Ford Crown-Vic) to do your towing? but that vehicle wouldn't protect the glass much!!

I am going to screw (n bolt?) in some aluminum J-channel to act as a way to channel away the rain that drips down the sides............THEN each window is getting some kind of cover/flap/etc. to protect it either from debris (front) and/or rain (front N sides)....we'll see how it works out........but 3 (all 3) currently leaky windows NEEDS to be deal with!!!!

_J

[JDHIV]

YESTERDAY I was able to use 3' threaded steel rods at 5/16" diameter and along with 2-each fender washers, lock washers, & nuts turned them into very long bolts that clamp together and go down through the truck cap all the way down through the floor and through a short piece of 2/3 turned up on it's longer dimension (for less flex) which catches under the floor joists....then I used simple 4" bolts to just hold the cap down to the top-rail.

THEN went to Home Depot and got some 1/4 "interior/exterior" B/C grade plywood (for outer skins) cut down to the proper widths to make the heights of my walls correct: 24" on the side walls and 22" high on the front wall..I then knew my exact length of the front wall at 6' to be cut by HD

...the 4 remaining 2x8' cut sections that will be the side walls will have a good deal of waste. I have to have an overall length of 8'2"...so that extra 2" means I can't just have a 2" piece that is seamed up against the 8' normal ply-length....SO, I'll cut each pair of 2x8' pieces down from their 8' length to add up to 8'2" such that they overlap a good seam at one of the wall studs.

I bought a gallon of Behr exterior primer+paint and had it tinted a silver color to go along with the cap's aluminum and my car's color....I'll make sure to paint a couple of coats (making sure to hit the edges of the ply!!) and screw it in..........and THEN seal it with some exterior silicone caulk.

I will still have to make some flaps/covers for the windows so they don't leak under rain. this includes the rain gutter stuff I'll screw/glue in that I'll cut lengths out of aluminum J-channel above each window to help.

NEXT I'll have to get a Fantastic-Fan and cut a hole in the roof and install and seal it!

But, overall it WILL be campable within the week!!!!!!

Q's:

1) do you think I need to paint the inner facing surface of the outer skin?
2) do I need to paint the plywood BEFORE it goes on the trailer?
3) is plexiglass strong enough to protect the front window? I'm leaning now towards plywood that I'll likely have scrap from when I finish the walls...so, it'll get painted and then screwed to a continuous hinge to be able to hang and clip over the front windows for both protection as well as a sun shade when parked.

_John

[pjo129]

You are right. I do have a Grand Marquis. That is TV #2. Here shown bringing home my truck topper.



(Please note tag line in my signature.)

Plexiglass should work to cover it just fine. I will probably look into doing something like that for when I have to use the GM.

[JDHIV]

You are right. I do have a Grand Marquis. That is TV #2. Here shown bringing home my truck topper.



(Please note tag line in my signature.)

Plexiglass should work to cover it just fine. I will probably look into doing something like that for when I have to use the GM.

Thanks Pete! I think I'm going to take back the expensive plexiglass that isn't long enough anyway and use the cheaper and easier to work with plywood...it won't permanently be fixed in place but will lift up on a hinge to open up.

I wish the weather would hold up long enough to get work done...but I'm visiting relatives..won't be home for an hour and then the rain is expected two more times this afternoon.

Plus, the dog just yelped a bunch while pooping ....a rubber glove allowed me to find it was kind of hard and had bits of beech tree nut shells in it....she eats sticks sometimes too....silly dog!!

_John

[JDHIV]

I have been busy lately (getting back to work and such) and I didn't take too many pics, but I have a few to show ya where I am now!

I got the 1/4" outer skin plywood cut and painted with Behr exterior primer and paint combo with some silver shade tinted into it. I even used some to go around the side windows and therefore the black trim (I thought it was a bit visually distracting so I got rid of it)


With my dad's help I ran the new trailer lights wiring down inside the trailer's tubular (square shaped) steel from the front by the tongue all the way to the back on the driver's side. Here it is in the front.


The back wall of the cap meets up with some 1/2" plywood that is multiply screwed into the most rear studs of the side-walls. My intent was to hold the rear of the walls in from leaning out. Even with the cap bolted down onto the walls, it still leans out a bit (Grrrr )


Here is a look inside from the open door in the cap's rear wall:


Here you can see the black circle which is just the residue of a large plastic tub I had the plywood on when painting both sides (and ply edges)...you can also see both the short bolts and the long 3' threaded rod that holds the cap down:


I used short pieces of 2x3 to go perpendicularly under the floor to catch two of the floor joists (painted black) to make sure the cap is REALLY held down:


The new wiring as it pops out the back:


Driver's rear light temporarily mounted with the bracket that will hold the license plate...I'm going to have to run a wire from the mounting bolt for the light since it is supposed to be the ground and directly touching the trailer metal.


I'll need to paint the plywood that the light mounts to:


===I still need to finish the lights and then it is essentially campable...but I still need to make covers for the windows for when it rains as well as making a "stop" from a strip of 1x2 on the inside of the whole back wall and some weatherstripping as the walls lean out and leave a gap.

Also, at SOME point I WILL install a "fantastic fan" in the roof and run some wiring for other 12 volt stuff

I also have a 6x8' roll of linoleum remnant to lay down (or glue down) as the floor...OR I may go with indoor outdoor carpet.

My friend also mentioned that a heavy-duty garbage can manufacturer now makes totes that are STRONG...so maybe I'll make a modular bed platform out of them and have storage with options !?!?

...........progress is going to be relatively slow from here on in...but I want the bulk of making it leakproof and fully campable before it gets too cold!!

THOUGHTS? OPINIONS?

_John

[Junkboy999]

I’m not sure where it was and I can't find it now, but I seen a topper like that mounted on a box or the truck bed, and it was deck out to be a Towable deen blind.

Keep up the good work.

[JDHIV]

I’m not sure where it was and I can't find it now, but I seen a topper like that mounted on a box or the truck bed, and it was deck out to be a Towable deen blind.

Keep up the good work.

Thanks!!

But, what is a "deen blind" ? with the word blind in there I'm thinking of a hunter's duck blind....am I even close? typo?

_John