Tigin Linn - Little House and Us

[McGuffin]

Hi from County Wexford,

Tigin is Irish for “Little House”. So our plan is to build a Tigin on wheels.

With some initial help, advice, encouragement (and kind permission) from Dave Mc Cannin we are attempting to build a version of the Travelear. Here are a few Sketchup photos at the planning stage which drafts up what we are aiming for. If it works out half as good as Dave’s Travelear we’ll be thrilled!

Larry

This is the Chassis Plan



Here is a mock up of the Tigin (10' x 4.5')



The two together:



Flying through Space and Time ...

[pchast]

Interesting....

I think you will find your chassis needs to have the hitch extended beyond
the 'box'. Your drawing shows the three parts of the hitch depending
entirely on the welds. The box and the hitch would act like a big hinge/
lever. Its a weak point unless the cab assembly provides extra structure.

[McGuffin]

Hi Pete,

Great comment thanks and timely too.

With what you say in mind, I will add (tomorrow!) some strengthening to the chassis frame of the Tigin with some extra 2” angle iron welded underneath (the blue angle) hopefully that will add the necessary strength. The green angle running between inside box is already in place. This was put in to support the floor edges and (at the back) to support a bracket for the spare tire.

I have to do this tomorrow because the frame will be delivered for galvanizing on Friday … what do you think, am I on the right track?

Regards,


Larry

[pchast]

Larry,

I'm not a materials engineer. It looks like it would resist the hinge.
I didn't realize you were already welded up!
Have you seen? viewtopic.php?f=35&t=59459

I've been hoping some of the others would chime in.

How do you intend to attach the front box to the cab/frame. It could
provide some strength also if you need it to?

[McGuffin]

[quote][/quote]

Hi Pete,

Yes the Tigin chassis was partially welded up so I could start the dry fit a couple of months back. This meant alterations for any changes can be facilitated more easily. So the information you gave me was both timely and useful. Thank you also for the link too - great information.

Here is what the Tigin looks like (dry fitted) - just before we broke it down a couple of days ago:



The final version of the chassis, with additional belt and braces add-ons now looks like this:

Black = Bracing for corner stands (2" x "2 x 1/8"angle)
Red = Main Frame (2" x "2 x 1/8" Box)
Yellow = Frame bracing (2" x 2" x 1/8" box)
Blue = Additional bracing to support tonge (2" x "2 x 1/8"angle).
Green = Internal bracing to support edges of floor (2" x"2 x 1/8" Angle)




Larry

P.S My buddy Martin (who is a metalwork teacher) is doing all the welding so its all good and strong and well put together .

[3nero]

Hello from County Wicklow. Nice to see another Irish trailer getting built. I hope you have better luck with the weather than me

[McGuffin]

Hello from County Wicklow. Nice to see another Irish trailer getting built. I hope you have better luck with the weather than me

Hi 3nero,

Waw! Just checked your build too - well done! If we find somebody else we can start a gang !

Larry

[McGuffin]

Hi All,

Here is the chassis back from being dipped ...





Looking forward now to fixing things together permanently. Here is a snap of the profile with the hatch notch cut out and the fenders I hope to use.



These are fiberglass replacements for a Morris Traveler and I will have to modify them to make them wider...Just hope I'll be able to finish the doors and hatch OK ...

Larry

[3nero]

Where did you find the morris arches? I looked around for some but didn't find any.
Liking the profile too.

Keep it up and you'll be camping soon.
We might bump into you in Tramore or somewhere similar one day

[McGuffin]

Where did you find the morris arches? I looked around for some but didn't find any.
Liking the profile too.

Keep it up and you'll be camping soon.
We might bump into you in Tramore or somewhere similar one day

Hi Nero,

I got the fenders from England - there are a couple of suppliers who specialise in the Morris stuff. I like the shape of them but they will need a lot of work to fatten them out to cover the wheels. I still have to figure how best to do this

I wish I was on the way to Tramore .... but I'm afraid it's Workmore for now

Larry

[3nero]

They are a really nice shape. I was looking for metal ones and i have friend who has a few travelers but he had no spare rust free arches that i could use. I wasn't aware that there was fibreglass ones available. It would have saved me so much time to just buy them. I think i spent 2 weeks making mine.

To widen them wouldn't be too hard.
I'd start by making deep saw cuts into the edge where you will be adding the extra material, around an inch deep with a jig saw. The less straight the better. It will give a good key and stop the new stuff cracking off later on. Then i would tape some stiff card (not corrugated) or plastic onto the outside edge using a good double sided tape and fibre glass from the inside filling the saw cuts in as you go. You could form the lip needed for screws/blots with the same card by cutting some small notches along the length and folding them inwards 90 degrees.

There are other ways to do it but that way would probably be the quickest.

Good luck with the build. I hope you have better weather than me

[McGuffin]

They are a really nice shape. I was looking for metal ones and i have friend who has a few travelers but he had no spare rust free arches that i could use. I wasn't aware that there was fibreglass ones available. It would have saved me so much time to just buy them. I think i spent 2 weeks making mine.

To widen them wouldn't be too hard.
I'd start by making deep saw cuts into the edge where you will be adding the extra material, around an inch deep with a jig saw. The less straight the better. It will give a good key and stop the new stuff cracking off later on. Then i would tape some stiff card (not corrugated) or plastic onto the outside edge using a good double sided tape and fibre glass from the inside filling the saw cuts in as you go. You could form the lip needed for screws/blots with the same card by cutting some small notches along the length and folding them inwards 90 degrees.

There are other ways to do it but that way would probably be the quickest.

Good luck with the build. I hope you have better weather than me

Hi Nero,

Thanks for all that great information -

I have a feeling I might just chicken out and get someone to do them for me. There is a guy locally who advertises who does motorcycle fairings etc to order so I was thinking he might sort them out. I used to have a Morris 1000 and I am happy to use some of the shapes off that old marque. Her is the arch with some chrome I got which will eventually go on the wheels:



Actually come to think about this set-up looks nicer without the wheels !

Thanks for the advise about strengthening though. Wouldn't it be desperate if I lost the two of them on my first trip out!

Did you get to Tramore?

Larry

[McGuffin]

Here are a few more progress shots:

I started by bolting and gluing two runners of solid ash to the chassis



Then gluing up the frame with sikaflex (black) and gorilla glue and dropping the 1/4" ply on to the frame, jointing with 2" x1" ply at the seaqms. I used self tapping screws straight onto the frame and squeezed out the glue as it all tightened up:





here she is with the first layer of insulation installed:



Here is what the tail end / hatch should look like in profile:



....always an optimist

Larry

[McGuffin]

It was my birthday last week and my son sent me this card it says it all. For DIY project read "Tear Drop Trailer Build" ...



Anyway after spending 73% of my time swearing today... here is an update of the floor. This is the second layer of 3/4" insulation installed and screwed and glued up ready for the floor....





and finally ... got the 1/2" plywood screwed on with stainless steel 1" screws. It went in in seven different sections partly because I made a mistake in cutting it and did not want to buy another sheet and partly because I thought if I install it in small panels I can lift them easier from the inside if I have to repair the floor. So the top panels are screwed and not glued.



Larry

[pchast]

Making good progress!