Albuquerque teardrop

[Sheddie]

Mistakes to date:

• Cut interior galley wall little short leaving side walls 1/4" to 1/2" closer than planned.
• Floor panel bolt holes didn't line up so well leaving 1/8" gap in middle of floor to be sealed.
• Roof panel overhangs sidewall slightly. Needs to be trimmed.
• Front curves had some very small flat spots in a few places. Nails and glue fixed this.
• First design, vented Kammback, looked too difficult so changed to generic Benroy
• First wall panels based on Kammback profile were 1/2" thick. New wall panels are 3/4" which provide better attachment to roof with only a little extra weight.
• Mismeasured some screw holes which will be patched.

Well that's not much
As I said somewhere else, the sign of a good tradesman is how well he hides his mistakes.

[pchast]

We don't do NO mistakes!

They are opportunities for customization.

[KCStudly]

Not mistakes, "design development"!

[ChasCABQ]

Thank you for the good humor relating to my "design developments"...

Perfection is an unrealizable goal. Accepting mistakes leads to improvement. In my former career as an engineer we reviewed projects after completion with an eye towards "lessons learned."

I'm learning SOOO many lessons. Would have been more if I hadn't found this great forum with all you experienced builders. Thanks for the encouragement!

[ChasCABQ]

I installed a simple rear shelf made of 1/2" birch plywood secured with pocket screws into galley divider and side walls. This keeps with my basic style of camping not to mention I'm no cabinet maker.

Next I need some more 1x2s so I can finish roofing the sleeper and then start on the hatch.

[KCStudly]

Nothing wrong with keeping things basic and sticking to that plan. If I ever do a 2nd build that will be my mindset, too. Feature creep I do not want.

On the other hand, for your shelf, the very simple addition of a 1x1 (3/4 x 3/4 actual) cleat screwed and glued along the top "front" edge would help keep things from sliding off and would also help to stiffen the edge quite a bit; so that it is less likely to sag once you have your gear on it.

If you wanted to have a little more retention and even more stiffening, you could space the cleat up off of the shelf every 8 inches or so with some little blocks of wood and longer screws coming up from the bottom, making more of a raised rail effect. Again, very simple to do, just a few straight cuts and some more screws, not ornate at all but adding function and strength.

Anyway you go, build on!

[ChasCABQ]

I've been gardening more than working on my trailer but finally got back to it the last few days. I added a rail to my shelf (had planned to do this and also thanks to KCStudly for suggesting) then finished roof spars over sleeper. I was running short on 1x2s and my nearby lumber yard was out so I got some nice poplar 1x2s from local cabinet supply company. They are true 2", not 1-1/2" like previous, and straight and true. I installed them with pocket screws, flat along the straight section of roof for headroom and on edge over shelf along curved section of wall. Next I will install 1x2 bracing over galley for hurricane hinge and lay in next roof panel.

[ChasCABQ]

My daughter and I glued and nailed the second roof panel, 1/8" birch, to the roof spars and sidewalls. I left the last 20" unattached so I could accurately locate the last spar. I glued and attached the spar using pocket screws then glued and nailed (brass boat nails) the final edge at the galley. I will start building the hatch next.

[ChasCABQ]

Over the last two mornings, I cut and attached six curved spars to top and bottom edges of hatch frame using TB3 and pocket screws. Next I'll install cross-bracing and 1/8" birch plywood to finish. Temperatures here have been in the 90s during the afternoon which is also when the sun comes in my garage.

[pchast]

I notice you have the end panels spring clamped to the sides of your trailer.
Have you added shims to allow any clearance for opening and closing the
hatch?

[Sheddie]

I notice you have the end panels spring clamped to the sides of your trailer.
Have you added shims to allow any clearance for opening and closing the
hatch?

Well spotted Pete I was wondering that too.

[ChasCABQ]

I notice you have the end panels spring clamped to the sides of your trailer.
Have you added shims to allow any clearance for opening and closing the
hatch?

Yes, I cut top and bottom spars narrower than the opening to allow for paint, etc. Clamps are just to hold in place for now. After I finish the hatch, I'll patch and paint everything then install hurricane hinge over the painted surfaces.

[KCStudly]

I used 5 mm (3/16) shims between first rib and side wall and would have been better off using 3/8.

[GeneralChingon]

Very nice, I also live in Albuquerque, and will be starting working on one as well.

[ChasCABQ]

I finished all the bracing and installed the hatch lock with room for exterior 1/8" plywood skin. Everything was assembled with pocket screws, tee nuts and bolts for easy maintenance. I will begin installing gas struts next.