Lifting roof XPStream - Almost Finished!

[dales133]

Looks good mate that cabinetry is lovely

[OP827]

Thanks Dale, appreciate the support, I need it. Now I am thinking what material to use above propane fridge back grill. The yet uncovered area would be on the picture right from the cooktop compartment glueup. I am studying installation instructions for the answer - http://www.nationalserroscotty.org/resources/DometicRM211.pdf
Is thin aluminum flashing ok, or I better get a piece of ganvanized steel? How hot will it get, anyone knows?

[KCStudly]

Great work on the cabinets.

I wouldn't use galvy in any food environment; it's essentially poisonous/toxic/not good to ingest. I realize that you probably don't plan to eat or cook directly on it, but you have to keep in mind transfer from handling and cleanup.

Stainless steel would be best because it is fairly inactive, aluminum would be my next choice. In ether case, if you are trying to insulate the wall from heat (not just splatter or incidental flame/flair up contact) then maybe consider mounting it with spacers to leave an air gap. Of course you wouldn't want any way for any potential flair up to get behind it, but having an air gap between the heat shield and the protected area is the best way to create a thermal break.

[OP827]

Thanks KC. I think my question description was not clear. What I am trying to finalize is the fireproofing of the propane fridge compartment area, upper part in particular, not the cooktop(which has its own heat screen/cover).
Here is the picture of the fridge compartment area. The fridge's propane torch fumes and electric heater will heat the upper vent area surface and therefore it needs some fireproofing in that area top and sides:



I could not find good info online for what are good materials would be, the fridge installation instruction calls for "fireproofing" material or cover, but then too many pictures of failure and propane fridge fires or lack of fireproofing in the fridge upper vent areas. There will be no contact with food from that hood, since it is hidden under the countertop. Hope it is more or less clear now. Like with any fireproofing, "it depends" what are we proofing from and for how long. I want to be reasonable with fireproofing and still be safe.

[KCStudly]

Ah, I missed that. Not sure that I can help with any std's or RV codes, but maybe you can find something useful here: https://www.zoro.com/fire-barrier-products/c/6420/.

[OP827]

Thanks KC.
Found recommendations online, so I think I'll follow the intent of such design. The document calls for metal baffle towards the upper vent, on page 8 -
http://www.thetford.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/1236/635473-Installation-Manual.pdf

Aluminum, stainless, or galvanised sheet should work then.

[OP827]

Today's update. Working on dinette area today, here is dry fit, ready for glueup, still need to build some panels across the seating for reinforcement, will do that tomorrow. Those little details and good fit do take time. I actualy like how hardwood (western yellow birch) made corners look together with baltic birch ply. I hope they'll play well together when they get a finish coat. I plan no dark wood stain, just plain epoxy and then polyurethane.

[noseoil]

Nice job on the cabinets, they look first rate. The corners look really good!

I had the same decision to make on finish, a small space will look like a cave if it's too dark in the finish (no walnut, no mahogany!). I went with a light stain (a very light maple, not orange) to tone the grain just a bit & make some contrast prior to finishing. It keeps the light look but shows off the BB a little better. Without the stain, it just looks pure white, with the stain there's a bit more depth to it when the urethane went on.

[OP827]

Thank you noseoil, I already covered some BB plywood with epoxy so I guess I do not have a choice now. I can always paint though.

[OP827]

Made some progress with the interior. Finished making and framing fridge and furnace vents, made kitchen table top (no picture yet, sorry) and almost done with dinette. Dinette table top is a sandwich panel of 1/8" bb ply with foam inside and some reinforcement plus 3/4" bb ply edge, so it looks like it is made of 1" thick bb ply, I think I'll leave the bb plywood edge look.

As I mentioned in my previous post some time ago I wanted to make a non-standard table bracket. Today I worked out the design and made it, and here is the result in pictures. This table mount tightly locks the table top under the window sill front trim. Table top is then the same level as bay window sill. When turned down about 15 degrees, it can be lifted off the bracket and installed back by lifting it to the horizontal level.

Table leg is just a temporary prop. I am waiting for hardware to arrive in mail before I finish the folding leg.

[KCStudly]

Your hard work is showing! It is looking more and more refined with each installment.

So often during the construction phase it is difficult to see the quality being built in due to the unfinished nature of things. Your build, however, quite well shows the quality and attention to detail that you are putting in.

Great job!

[Atomic77]

I agree with KC... great work I'm very impressed. Hope mine turns out half as good!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

[OP827]

Thank you guys for such kind words. Now Michael, you must be joking or may be underestimating the fine work you can and will do with your trailer build cabinets. One thing I stopped using when marking for precise cuts is a pencil. I am using a boxcutter/utility knife, it gives much finer line thus a better fit. A homebuilt tablesaw crosscut sled does help with good precise cuts. Table saw with a good blade that does not vibrate. A 10" Combo 50T Freud blade does good clean cuts, just uncomparable to cheaper blades used before. I've built box joint, tenon and some other minor jigs, a small router table on a table saw side.

[dales133]

Couldnt agree more with KC and Micheal.
This is going to be an outstanding camper and super unique.
Love your work man

[OP827]

Thank you very much Dale. I got a new question now, I also asked it in CTC forum here, but did not get any answer yet. Where is a good place to ask here? Ideally a professional plumber would be the right person to address this, but I do not have any one around right now. So here it is again:

I have a question on how to properly seal propane lines penetration between propane fridge area and interior. Or there is a better way? Please see the picture below for more explanation. Thank you for help.



EDIT: I have consulted with professional plumber and confirmed that using rubber grommets for sealing between the interior and the lower vent area is OK. So I am going to shop for some 3/8" rubber grommets now.