M116A3 Build

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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby noseoil » Wed Dec 21, 2016 6:54 am

Seems like running the roof fan on low & blowing down would be the easiest solution. If the hatch is closed, it would probably stir the air enough to push it down & churn the interior air to break up the layering effect. That, or a small 12 volt wall fan placed higher up & blowing downward would be sufficient to move the air around.
Build log: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=60248
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby lfhoward » Wed Dec 21, 2016 12:22 pm

noseoil wrote:Seems like running the roof fan on low & blowing down would be the easiest solution. If the hatch is closed, it would probably stir the air enough to push it down & churn the interior air to break up the layering effect. That, or a small 12 volt wall fan placed higher up & blowing downward would be sufficient to move the air around.

HI Tim,
I've thought of that too, but my Fantastic Vent fan has a switch that makes it turn off when the hatch is closed, so that it can't be run in the way you describe. If the hatch were open, then it's such a strong fan that it would either be exhausting all the warm air or bringing in a ton of cold. I think the smaller fans are the way to go to move air around and break up the layering effect.
My off-road camper build on an M116A3 military chassis:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62581
Tow vehicle: 2008 Jeep Liberty with a 4 inch lift.
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby KCStudly » Wed Dec 21, 2016 12:37 pm

Some fans, such as the Maxxair Deluxe, have a "ceiling fan" mode so that they can be run in a down draft fashion even when the lid is closed. Tho adding a smaller dedicated down draft fan is probably more economical than upgrading. :roll:
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby noseoil » Thu Dec 22, 2016 8:11 am

Glad I went with the Maaxair fan. Didn't realize the Fantastic was wired that way. What about a ceiling fan from Home Delay? Merry Christmas!
Build log: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=60248
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby lfhoward » Sat Jan 14, 2017 9:12 am

Hello and happy new year, everyone!

This is my first post in the new year. Not a whole lot to report, except for this important fact: no leaks. We've had torrential rains, freezing rain, ice, and snow, and high winds too. But the trailer seems to be nice and weather proof. :D (knocking on wood as I write this!)

Weirdly, we went from 17°F a few days ago up to 65° and so I did have one day of unseaonably warm weather to get out and work on it. I made more progress removing the film of sticky goo from the roof. I think I am closing in on having it 1/2 way removed! It really is no fun scrubbing that stuff off, but it does look so much better in places where I've done it. One or two more nice days and I may finish that task.

We are forecasted to have an inch of snow this afternoon, so back to winter!
My off-road camper build on an M116A3 military chassis:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62581
Tow vehicle: 2008 Jeep Liberty with a 4 inch lift.
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby MadMango » Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:08 am

No leaks is the best way to start off the New Year!
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby lfhoward » Sun Jan 29, 2017 4:37 pm

Finally finished scrubbing off the sticky goo on the roof!!!!

Image

I also ordered a small electric baseboard heater and thermostat for when I'm connected to 120VAC shore power. It's 750 watts so it should keep things nice and toasty warm inside for a 4 day camping trip I'm doing at the end of February.

Image
Last edited by lfhoward on Sun May 13, 2018 3:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.
My off-road camper build on an M116A3 military chassis:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62581
Tow vehicle: 2008 Jeep Liberty with a 4 inch lift.
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby lfhoward » Sun Feb 05, 2017 2:01 pm

Today I have heat in my camper!

It's a Cadet 750 watt, 120 volt AC unit that I installed at the base of the back door.
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The heater and thermostat are made in USA. It's a high quality unit.
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The cord is a 14 gauge tool cord that plugs into an outlet inside the trailer. It matches the AWG of the heater wires and of the 120VAC of the trailer itself. There is a 15 amp fuse and GFCI upstream of the heater, where all the electrical enters into the trailer from shore power.
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There is still plenty of sitting room and space for safety between the heater and the foot of the bed.
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I'm hoping that the heat stratification issues I had with the space heater on the shelf will be less with this new heater. It heats by convection but it starts heating a lot lower in the cabin, near floor level. I think if the heat needed to move around more, I could always put a fan on this shelf to circulate the air around.
Image

Looking forward to trying a field test of the new heating system before my 4 day camping trip at the end of February. :D
Last edited by lfhoward on Tue Dec 18, 2018 4:28 pm, edited 3 times in total.
My off-road camper build on an M116A3 military chassis:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62581
Tow vehicle: 2008 Jeep Liberty with a 4 inch lift.
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby S. Heisley » Sun Feb 05, 2017 5:33 pm

It looks like you've found a good solution for your trailer! The only thing that I would caution about is to be certain the covers don't end up on the floor near or on the heater. We wouldn't want to see you become a toasted marshmallow.
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby lfhoward » Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:48 pm

That is a very good point, Sharon! :campfire:
My off-road camper build on an M116A3 military chassis:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62581
Tow vehicle: 2008 Jeep Liberty with a 4 inch lift.
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby lrrowe » Sun Feb 05, 2017 8:43 pm

I know heat rises and all that, but what about mounting this unit up high such as near the ceiling? Just using trial by error, one should be able to find the right setting to use to maintain acceptable temps in the lower parts. That could address the having anything flamable coming into contact with it issue.
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby lfhoward » Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:51 pm

I am testing it out as I write this. Doing some overnight camping in the driveway!

So far it's even better than I hoped. Nice and toasty warm and an even heat throughout the trailer. I have the windows cracked open 3/4 inch or so at the bottom, but the ceiling vent is closed. I put up black out curtains over the windows and that helps with insulation as well. Outdoors it will be going down to 31°F tonight. Not so inside. I think it must be about 65° inside the trailer and the thermostat isn't even set very high.
My off-road camper build on an M116A3 military chassis:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62581
Tow vehicle: 2008 Jeep Liberty with a 4 inch lift.
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby lfhoward » Sun Feb 05, 2017 10:13 pm

Bob, I think that would be absolutely true if this were a radiant heat unit instead of convective. Radiant units warm objects that they shine infrared light on, so they would be perfect as ceiling units. The convective heater I have needs to be down low since it is warming air that must rise up through the heater vents in order for it to work.
My off-road camper build on an M116A3 military chassis:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62581
Tow vehicle: 2008 Jeep Liberty with a 4 inch lift.
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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby noseoil » Mon Feb 06, 2017 8:39 am

Thermal siphon, similar to the "Model T" cooling system with no water pump! Cold goes in the bottom & displaces the heat at the top to push it down & turn the air. Looks like a winner, as long as there's shore power or a generator it will be warm & roasty-toasty inside, no matter what's happening outside! 750 watts would be a hefty load on your batteries (70 amps), so that's out, except for an emergency.

Glad we live here in Tucson (day time highs are back into the 70's again). ;)
Build log: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=60248
The time you spend planning is more important than the time you spend building.........

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Re: M116A3 Build

Postby lfhoward » Thu Feb 09, 2017 10:24 am

Image

I camped in the trailer last night, again to test it to make sure everything works before my 4 day trip at the end of the month. Last night was a good night for a field test because some weather blew in around midnight. First we had rain, which turned to sleet as the temperature dropped, and then later became snow. By the morning there were 3-4 inches of snow on top of the trailer!

In terms of outcomes:
1. I was nice and toasty warm all night. The new heater plus the curtains were a great combination.
2. The wall and ceiling insulation work well. The snow accumulated on top instead of melting off and forming icicles. It's about 65-70 degrees inside the trailer as I took this photo.
3. With the windows open about 1" on both sides, I didn't need to have the roof vent open all night long for fresh air. Opening it even a little sucks the heat out of the trailer quickly (and refreshes the air as new cold air is drawn in from the windows). I did that once in the night, but not sure I really had to.
4. Condensation on the ceiling and walls was not an issue, probably because of the insulation and having the windows open a bit for ventilation. The only place with minor condensation was on the front windows, right above where I was breathing humid air on them all night.
5. I need a bathroom solution for the trailer for nights like this! Here's what I ordered (the basic model): http://www.piddlepail.com Laugh if you must! But leaving the warm trailer in the middle of the night in a snowstorm is not my first choice! Lol.
Last edited by lfhoward on Sun May 13, 2018 3:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.
My off-road camper build on an M116A3 military chassis:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62581
Tow vehicle: 2008 Jeep Liberty with a 4 inch lift.
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