Jeremy from Janesville, WI Build Journal

[5speedsoffury]

I'm thinking it was this one, but I got it last year so I don't have to box it came in to read the model number. It's the 4500K, white, self closing, thermostat, remote, rain sensor & 10 speeds. I bought from Amazon, but I think there are better deals out there. Here's one.

https://www.rvsupplyparts.com/catalog/m ... fgod7IYB5A

I like having 10 speeds since one of the complaints about vented fans is about the noise & slowing them down.

Sorry for the delay on the Thanks, Noseoil! I looked into that fan and it has made my wish list!

I have currently got the sides and template both cut and smoothed out/ identical outline. I am debating wall attachment right now. I have seen the methods and am really thinking of going with the top mounted method with wall mounted on top of floor surface using a full length angle brace of sorts to add good fastener power. I just hope this is strong enough for basically a five foot tall wall.I have a little bit of hump in the center portion of the floor (little too much asphalt caulk on that area of the frame) I may be able to add some heat to the area and get it to level down with weight. I guess a test fit of the walls is in order.

First question: what would make for a good angle brace for the large sidewalls? With that brace what fastener/ adhesive would you recommend?

Second question: Doors?! I'm not thrilled about premade door prices but prices come second to ease and functionality. How about taller doors say 45-48" tall or so. anybody know of a manufacturer(s) of such doors. Insulated is the preference.


Thank you!
Jeremy

[5speedsoffury]

Hello all!
Here is my proposed skelton cut out marked in black.

I have decided to build my doors. I like the shape I have going.

In the font I have a small ledge planned with a closed in cubby underneath.

The rear cabinets are split for partial gallery and partial cabin storage. I plan on using a cabinet area in the galley for the power convertor box. Most likey the common one I see being used (pd4045).

I have been using Steve's manual as a guide. I do plan to use most all of his design techniques!

I am also planning on making a slide out shelf for a TF41 fridge/freezer. As far as a cooktop I may just be using a simple camp stove I already have.

[5speedsoffury]

Hi all!

Just like to wish everyone a HAPPY NEW YEAR! I hope to get in lots of teardrop time in the new year! Best wishes to all and be safe!

Jeremy

[5speedsoffury]

Hi all!

Template is cut out. Jigsaw and trim router were tools of choice. Now to sanding.

[KCStudly]

Looking good!

[5speedsoffury]

Looking good!

Thank you! I am excited and nervous all at the same time! I can't wait to cut into the plywood and get the insulation cut. I just hope cutting the ACX goes smoothly!

I am still debating what to use for the exterior sides. My dad is currently putting up some cedar on their chalet style ceiling. The cedar is from giant telephone poles and looks beautiful. It would make an awesome looking natural siding! I also like the idea of a nice paint job. The roof I would really like to do in aluminum.

Well that's just the tip of my thoughts for now!

Happy New Year all!

Jeremy

[noseoil]

I cut the insulation last year, then installed it this year during the wall build. Just a magic marker & a knife works well. I labelled each piece (with numbers) since the shapes are odd & they tend to look alike after a while of sitting around. That's the easiest way to do it. Once the walls are skinned on one side, it's impossible to trace the pattern to get the shapes easily.

The outside walls will be determined by your version of weather, storage & durability. Aluminum is pretty much bullet proof for a durable finish. Any type of wood outside will need to be protected & or "stored" for protection. I opted out of wood exterior walls here in Arizona (even though I really like to look), because the sun eats everything here. Paint, oil finish, etc. will all begin to flake & go away after a few years & I wanted something which would last with "zero" maintenance. For me that ended up being aluminum. YMMV!

[5speedsoffury]

I cut the insulation last year, then installed it this year during the wall build. Just a magic marker & a knife works well. I labelled each piece (with numbers) since the shapes are odd & they tend to look alike after a while of sitting around. That's the easiest way to do it. Once the walls are skinned on one side, it's impossible to trace the pattern to get the shapes easily.

The outside walls will be determined by your version of weather, storage & durability. Aluminum is pretty much bullet proof for a durable finish. Any type of wood outside will need to be protected & or "stored" for protection. I opted out of wood exterior walls here in Arizona (even though I really like to look), because the sun eats everything here. Paint, oil finish, etc. will all begin to flake & go away after a few years & I wanted something which would last with "zero" maintenance. For me that ended up being aluminum. YMMV!

Thank you for your tip Noseoil! I used that technique for the floor and it worked great! The only hard part was to cut deep enough I had to remove the razor from the knife and I had some sore fingers after getting all of the floor insulation cut out! I thought about using a handheld jigsaw to rough cut out the pieces and then borrowing a friends tabletop jigsaw to cut out the final shapes. I thought this may work better with the rounded corners.

I definitely plan to store the teardrop camper inside a garage when not in use. I keep on leaning on the lumber side of things because I have an awesome dad who is more than willing to donate to the build. I am also am OCD as all heck and do not like the idea of seams in aluminum. I know it is possible to find 5' x 10'+ aluminum but that seems pricey

Jeremy

[KCStudly]

Go to your local Goodwill or similar repurpose store and buy a nice stiff steak knife (I prefer straight edged because it doesn't make any dust and I can resharpen it easily). You will pay less than a dollar.

Use this to cut your foam. You can use a straight edge clamped on to guide longer straight cuts. I like to use a long flat drawing action, rather than an up and down sawing motion. 3/4 only takes a couple or three long even strokes and you are through. For the radius corners you can revert back to a more vertical up and down motion. It only takes a little practice and you will be making nice plumb square cuts.

Fast, easy, cheap, and very little dust.

[lrrowe]

Go to your local Goodwill or similar repurpose store and buy a nice stiff steak knife (I prefer straight edged because it doesn't make any dust and I can resharpen it easily). You will pay less than a dollar.

Use this to cut your foam. You can use a straight edge clamped on to guide longer straight cuts. I like to use a long flat drawing action, rather than an up and down sawing motion. 3/4 only takes a couple or three long even strokes and you are through. For the radius corners you can revert back to a more vertical up and down motion. It only takes a little practice and you will be making nice plumb square cuts.

Fast, easy, cheap, and very little dust.

I must have a gazillion fishing fillet knives and I have used my old ones just for this purpose.

[5speedsoffury]

Thanks guys! Being a knife guy I should have thought of this! I have a multitude of knifes I will try out a thin blade one and give it a whirl! The lady also just got a crappy knife set white elephant gift. I'll scrounge and find a candidate!

I hope to make decent progress tomorrow on the cutting of the sides! Then foam cutting will commence!

Thanks again!
Jeremy

[noseoil]

I use a Japanese blue steel knife. They're used in carving & veneer work for clean cuts. One side is flat, so they run well off of a straight edge, the other is the beveled or sharpened side.

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/ ... fgodwLUAUQ

[5speedsoffury]

I use a Japanese blue steel knife. Snip

I'll keep that in the wish list!

[skinnedknuckles]

Jeremy,
You' re getting closer that does look good When I cut my foam I used one of those cheapy break off blade knives from Menards . They worked good with the straight cuts but I can see where the curves would be difficult. How about rigging up some kind of hot wire cutter. They slice through foam like a hot knife through b....... you get the idea. I used one back in the day to cut foam wing blanks for radio control model airplanes. Soon you will be putting up sides
Paul from across the river and the land fill

[5speedsoffury]

Thanks Paul! Good idea on the hot foam knife. I thought about picking one of those up when I contemplated the Foamie style build. I did raid the crummy knifes from the kitchen and will give them a shot first. If that fails I'll give the hot knife idea a go!

Jeremy