First build 5x10 Rimple design

[mariannf]

If you plan to stand the wall ply up next to the 1x4 and screw them together, it will probably pull everything together and true again... or at least an approximation. I would use PL Premium construction adhesive for this joint, as it is more forgiving of minor gaps and rough surfaces than regular wood glue.

Thanks KC! I was thinking that might be the case.

3/4" plywood is almost strong enough to stand alone. In fact, some people use it, cut out, to build the sandwich framework for their teardrops. Therefore, depending upon how uneven it is, you could sand a wee bit off that 1x4 without hurting anything, if you feel you need to. But, don't get carried away. As KC stated, PL Premium construction adhesive is a really good and forgiving glue. From what you've said, the wood is still pliable and may simply follow the "suggestion" of the plywood, as KC said.

Thanks again Sharon, yes I think I am going to sand it down to be less pronounced and then when I dry fit the wall see how it acts.
Happy holidays!

[S. Heisley]

By the way, if you don't have one yet, be sure to purchase a Kreg jig. You won't be sorry.
I've been meaning to mention that and a post reminded me today. I have two different brands and find that Kreg jigs are the easiest to use.
You don't need a big, fancy kit. A "one-holer", Kreg dill bit and a couple clamps will work just fine. That's what I used....Love it.

[mariannf]

By the way, if you don't have one yet, be sure to purchase a Kreg jig. You won't be sorry.
I've been meaning to mention that and a post reminded me today. I have two different brands and find that Kreg jigs are the easiest to use.
You don't need a big, fancy kit. A "one-holer", Kreg dill bit and a couple clamps will work just fine. That's what I used....Love it.

Thanks Sharon I have looked into a Kreg jig. What part of construction would it be used for and how? Like joining wall to floor or joining parts of frame to each other?

[S. Heisley]

By the way, if you don't have one yet, be sure to purchase a Kreg jig. You won't be sorry.
I've been meaning to mention that and a post reminded me today. I have two different brands and find that Kreg jigs are the easiest to use.
You don't need a big, fancy kit. A "one-holer", Kreg dill bit and a couple clamps will work just fine. That's what I used....Love it.

Thanks Sharon I have looked into a Kreg jig. What part of construction would it be used for and how? Like joining wall to floor or joining parts of frame to each other?

...All of what you mentioned and more. It's great for trailer framework, cabinet framework, attaching cabinets, etc. It's especially nice when making a right angle joining. You will find it easier and more accurate. Also, if you make right angle joints with a screw pinned through, there are times, later, when you will want to kick yourself for having done that, especially around places (door frames?) where you want to put a hinge and then find that there is already a screw right where you need to put another. Yes, you could toe-nail in your screw but toe-nailing is rarely as accurate or as strong as the Kreg system is. ** I forgot to mention that the Kreg jig works best with its own Kreg screws; so, you'll want to buy a box of those, too. ** They have wooden pegs that you can purchase to fill and glue over the hole; but, sometimes, I used a little Titebond III mixed with some of my saved sawdust. Yes, save the best of your sawdust in a closed box. You can use a bit of it mixed with the Titebond III to fill in those little, uneven cracks and other such spots. The less wiggle in your frame, the better. An added bonus is that, once dry, Titebond III is waterproof and can be tougher than the wood it has bonded with.

Another tip: On raw wood, Titebond III is the best. Extra tip: Keep a sponge handy to dampen the raw wood a wee bit before you apply the Titebond glue. It seems to help the glue bond with the wood better/deeper. Also, dampening the wood gives you more gluing time in warm weather.

On already sealed wood and when seating the walls to the deck, PL Premium construction adhesive is almost always best.

[mariannf]

By the way, if you don't have one yet, be sure to purchase a Kreg jig. You won't be sorry.
I've been meaning to mention that and a post reminded me today. I have two different brands and find that Kreg jigs are the easiest to use.
You don't need a big, fancy kit. A "one-holer", Kreg dill bit and a couple clamps will work just fine. That's what I used....Love it.

Thanks Sharon I have looked into a Kreg jig. What part of construction would it be used for and how? Like joining wall to floor or joining parts of frame to each other?

...All of what you mentioned and more. It's great for trailer framework, cabinet framework, attaching cabinets, etc. It's especially nice when making a right angle joining. You will find it easier and more accurate. Also, if you make right angle joints with a screw pinned through, there are times, later, when you will want to kick yourself for having done that, especially around places (door frames?) where you want to put a hinge and then find that there is already a screw right where you need to put another. Yes, you could toe-nail in your screw but toe-nailing is rarely as accurate or as strong as the Kreg system is. ** I forgot to mention that the Kreg jig works best with its own Kreg screws; so, you'll want to buy a box of those, too. ** They have wooden pegs that you can purchase to fill and glue over the hole; but, sometimes, I used a little Titebond III mixed with some of my saved sawdust. Yes, save the best of your sawdust in a closed box. You can use a bit of it mixed with the Titebond III to fill in those little, uneven cracks and other such spots. The less wiggle in your frame, the better. An added bonus is that, once dry, Titebond III is waterproof and can be tougher than the wood it has bonded with.

Another tip: On raw wood, Titebond III is the best. Extra tip: Keep a sponge handy to dampen the raw wood a wee bit before you apply the Titebond glue. It seems to help the glue bond with the wood better/deeper. Also, dampening the wood gives you more gluing time in warm weather.

On already sealed wood and when seating the walls to the deck, PL Premium construction adhesive is almost always best.

Thanks again Sharon!

[mariannf]

5x10x5 driver side profile axle location corrected.png (191.19 KiB) Viewed 12105 times

here is the sketched plan for this build; driver's side profile with the axle location corrected.
Notes: No galley instead have bunk beds. Will have tongue box with deep cycle battery and fuse box and ground block for 12v system. Wiring will run behind vertical cabinets. Considering the "super simple" 110v AC electrical, with external port accessed through bottom of vertical cabinets http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=37732&start=15

[S. Heisley]

I didn't realize that you were going to build bunks!

Just a thought....You might consider adding a tad extra framing on one side wall at the foot end of the bunks. That way, if you want the length of your bunks to "grow" longer, later, you'll be able to add a pull-out foot well because the needed bracing will already be there. Or, you can purchase small, pre-made, locking cargo doors and install them now. Then, you'll just need to add the fold-out foot platform when you need it.

[mariannf]

:o I didn't realize that you were going to build bunks!

Just a thought....You might consider adding a tad extra framing on one side wall at the foot end of the bunks. That way, if you want the length of your bunks to "grow" longer, later, you'll be able to add a pull-out foot well because the needed bracing will already be there. Or, you can purchase small, pre-made, locking cargo doors and install them now. Then, you'll just need to add the fold-out foot platform when you need it.

Hi Sharon, great idea! I was thinking about what would happen when my girls outgrow the 60" wide bunk. I will probably go with the extra framing at the foot end.

I plan to do a window at the head and foot end of the bunks so the girls have a cross breeze, and the fairly small bunk space will feel a bit more open.

both the driver and passenger will have the same profile for the most part. Windows and two doors coming from Vintage Technologies.

[noseoil]

I'm curious about the 16" cabinet at the foot of your mattress area. How does it open & close, & or, how does it divide the space between the bunks & main sleeping quarters? Interesting design & layout!

[KCStudly]

I assumed that this was akin to a closet or garment hanging locker, and would not extend the full width of the camper; maybe just standing against one wall and coming out about 18 inches where their feet would be. Still plenty of room for a child to tuck into. A lot of commercial campers have kids bunks that aren't fully open like this.

[S. Heisley]

I assumed that this was akin to a closet or garment hanging locker, and would not extend the full width of the camper; maybe just standing against one wall and coming out about 18 inches where their feet would be. Still plenty of room for a child to tuck into. A lot of commercial campers have kids bunks that aren't fully open like this.

Okay, now, KC and noseoil have got me thinking.... I didn't notice any lights by the bunks...? Rather than putting the cabinet at the foot, if you put it at the head, the girls will be shaded from the overhead light and from your reading light, should you want to have it on while they are trying to sleep. Then, if you mount a small bunk light on the bunk side of the cabinet for each bunk, the girls can turn on their lights without bothering anybody else, too! (The cord to these lights can be encased in a protective shield that just snaps on.) Each child could even have a small shelf under her light, to hold a paperback, phone,glasses, etc. I find that a little 3" deep shelf is sufficient for that task. Of course, for all I know, you may have a cabinet on each side. Are you are going cook at a picnic table or build a grub box?

[S. Heisley]

I see them now, after I've posted. You do have reading lights for the girls' bunks; but, you have them in two different places. However, if you put both on the side of the cabinet, it would simplify your wiring somewhat.

[S. Heisley]

Something about the door placement bothered me; and, at first, I couldn't figure it out.
Then the light bulb went on. For the kids to get to their bunks, they will have to crawl over two thirds of your bed area.
Are you okay with that?

The other thing making me scratch my head is whether your axle placement is going to be correct. The reason that people move their axle further back from its original position is to achieve a proper 60/40 balance, with around 60% of the weight in front. If you haven't already done it, you can calculate your trailer's balance using Andrew's software program, here: http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear81.htm Because you won't have a galley in the back, you may not need to move your axle back. If you need or want to change your axle placement, it should probably be done now, before you attach the cabin sides.

Further food for thought is that you might be able to turn your floor plan around, putting the bunks in the front and the door in front of the axle. (I haven't tried it as I don't know where your axle is or should be....It's just a thought.) This might mean that the kids would climb in at the foot of your bed instead of the middle, which could be an advantage for everybody.

All of the above may be unimportant to you as you may already be totally secure in your design; but, one never knows when a thought or idea may hit that has merit.

[mariannf]

I'm curious about the 16" cabinet at the foot of your mattress area. How does it open & close, & or, how does it divide the space between the bunks & main sleeping quarters? Interesting design & layout!

Hi KC and Noseoil,
I am thinking of using this cabinet on both sides: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/produ ... VgFNR6NDtR
You will see that it is open face and insert drawers are available. I don't have any real woodwork experience so the short cut of buying the cabinets is appealing. you will see it is approx 16x57x16. the overall interior length of the TTT will be 117 inches.
I am looking at this fold up bed/sofa http://www.thefutonshop.com/Folding-Foa ... ull-Double
You will see it is 54x75.

I'd like to make the bunks 32 inches. so my simple math (75+16+32= 123) means it won't all fit down the length. I am thinking of "cutting out" some of the foam at each of the bottom corners of the bed. that would mean a cut of about 6x14 to each of the bottom corners. i saw in some of the build threads that folks did cuts to their mattress to go around or over wheel wells.
What do you think, any alternative ideas?

When the bed is folded up we will have a good amount of room to sit/play if need be, and when the bed is folded down there will about 10 inches of floor space between the bed and the bunks.
I would like to keep the bunks as big as possible so that my girls will use them for as long as possible, they are 1 and 4 now so I should get several years until they really don't fit.

[mariannf]

:thinking: I see them now, after I've posted. You do have reading lights for the girls' bunks; but, you have them in two different places. However, if you put both on the side of the cabinet, it would simplify your wiring somewhat.

Thanks Sharon, another great idea about mounting the bunk bed reading lights to the closet at the head (I am planning one for the head and the foot). it will make running the electrical easier!