Bear's Lair

[Nobes]

Welcome aboard! I used skeletonized plywood on mine, but ash would be good also. It's tougher & harder than plywood, but the weight would be an issue for me. Plywood is faster to build with, since it's a full size panel already. It can be hollowed out if you want some insulation in the walls.

You mentioned sealing the edges, but what will you be using for a covering? Is it going to be aluminum skins, paint, canvas & paint (PMF or poor man's fiberglass) or fiberglass & resin?

Since you're a wood worker, it should be fairly easy for you to make a good box, but I would still do a full scale mock-up of the build to get a handle on sizes (mattress, bulkheads, shelves, etc.) on some cardboard.

No covering--I might paint the top, but the sides will be stained and clear-coated. I might put some fiberglass, Steve Frederick style, on it. We'll see how exhausted I am by the end. I have also thought about some type of metal flashing for the wall-ceiling joint.

90 board feet of ash (both sides at 5x9) will weigh 360 pounds per the Lumber Weight Calculator. I think it will look amazing. A similar sized 3/4 plywood would weigh about 200 (70 pounds per 4x8 sheet). I really debated the skeletonized, stick, solid ply, solid lumber question. While this method will add a little weight, and I think an extra 160 pounds is acceptable, I think the main thing is I don't have to agonize about water penetration ruining my walls. I still want to keep the water out of course, but it's not a death sentence if it happens.

[Nobes]

Yes, as many have said before on the Forum.
"You will never regret going larger"
And, another regret you will have is if you scrimp on the wiring!
I thought there might not be a need for 110 power when I built Miss Piggy?? .... But, I didn't want to find that out after the fact.
Went ahead thinking I was over wiring MP .......just to find out that it was "Not" over wired, as we use every electrical outlet, switch, and light I put in.
And once we started camping with out new Teardrop, we found out how are camping style and needs had changed......we love shoreline power!
GO with both AC & DC......and as much as you can! Wire is cheap!
Good Roads
Brian & Sandi

Thanks--seriously considering a more robust electrical build. I have no experience with this, other than replacing light switches and electrical outlets at home. It's fairly intimidating at this point. I've read quite a few threads discussing the details and it makes my head swim. I know I have to make a decision on this eventually...

Excellent point about camping style changing once you have a TD! I hadn't thought of that.

All the current wiring in the trailer will be removed, it was just installed to get it registered. Turned out it was unnecessary, I just went to the county office and told them I had built a trailer from a kit, showed them my insurance, driver's license, and receipt for the kit, paid $74, and got a license plate. Took about 20 minutes, 15 of which was standing in line.

Love your TV and Miss Piggy. I've been driving a 2005 SSR the last few years. Incredible vehicle. Just sold it and got something cheaper so I can pay medical bills from my hand surgery...and build a teardrop. That classic look can't be beat! I'm hoping one day I can get another one.

[Nobes]

Well I got a little done today after all. I cut several pieces of ply for the top and bottom layers of the floor sandwich, glued and screwed the bottom layer to the 1x4 supports, cut out the portion around the tires, and cut a bunch of 1x4s in half and placed them as insulation separators and top ply supporters (not installed yet).

Plus I got a lot done to help get the house ready for company. My daughter gets here tomorrow at noon, so hopefully I have time in the morning to finish the sandwich, leaving sanding and waterproofing for Sunday.

Pics below. Yeah that old guy is me.

[Nobes]

Not much progress this weekend. I finished cutting the insulation for the floor sandwich, and cut the 3 pieces for the floor. The next step is sanding and waterproofing, and since applying finish is not my favorite thing to do, I decided to relax this evening instead of working. The best news of the weekend is the top is perfectly square, so that's a good thing.

I have two questions: do I need to sand and waterproof the inside of the floor sandwich?

I used OSB ply for the floor, and I know there are a number of forum members who think that is crazy. There are also others who say it's the way to go. Anyway, given that I've used OSB, should I waterproof with The Mix or step up to the black tar stuff?

I have a delay this week. My 2 brothers in law and I are meeting in Missouri to remodel my parents' bathroom. It's an older home and some updates are much needed. It will be great to see the folks but it means I only have Monday & Tuesday nights to work on the TD.

New pics:


The last one shows the 1x6 side I will install later.

[Nobes]

Wow it was gorgeous outside tonight. A great night to work.

I finished sanding the 3 pieces of the top, pulled out the foam panels and removed the film, scuffed them up with the palm sander (manually, no power), used PL premium to glue them down, using a trowel to spread out the PL before placing the foam panels, filled in gaps with Great Stuff, waited a while for the Great Stuff to rise then scraped off excess stuff, learning in the process to next time USE LESS, put more PL premium on the foam and wood to glue on the top, plus some titebond3 because I used up all 3 tubes of the PL premium, then screwed down the top, leaving clamps in some places and a bunch of weight in the center where I need some longer screws to finish up. That's one big run-on sentence but it was that or bullet points.

I load up for doing some work for my parents tomorrow night, then Wednesday after work I drive some 16+ hours to DeSoto, MO through the weekend, getting home Monday--so it will be a week before I do anything else on the TD. The next step is to put those longer screws in the middle, flip the sandwich, and waterproof the bottom. I was going to use The Mix but I have decided, since I used OSB for the ply, to use the black goo. After that dries I'll flip it again, screw it on the metal hangers, and waterproof the top with The Mix. Then it's on to the sides! Excited about that.

Pics to follow

[Nobes]

Pull out the foam, remove the plastic film

Scuff with the sander, no power just a lite scuff

Clean out the spot

Spread the PL premium

Spread with a trowel

Re-insert the foam, fill gaps with great stuff, oops it really foams up, scrape off the excess

Put the top on, screws, clamps, and weight...here it will sit for a week.

[plectrudis]

Just wanted to say Hi, Nobes--I've just started my first build, too, also in Texas (just E of Austin), also an English major, and I'm also making a Grumman and also using a trailer kit. I think you might be my teardrop doppelganger. My... tearpelganger?

Needless to say, I'm looking forward to following your build, especially with all those nice, detailed pictures you've been posting. You're really zipping along! I'm envious of your woodworking skills.

Like you, I'm torn on the subject of electricity, but leaning toward just 12v. We've never used much electricity in our tent-camping days, and I'm not sure that will change now that our tent will be made of wood. OTOH, I am toying with installing a reserved line of conduit with a string running through it that I could use for AC if we want to upgrade later. Not sure if this is silly or prudent.

I'm looking forward to seeing your profile--will you be cutting it out soon?

[Nobes]

If nothing else, these builds will keep us off the streets a few months. I am having a lot of fun, and I'm not even to the good parts yet. I look forward to comparing notes with you as well. I see you have already routed joints for your plywood. I've done lots of woodworking and have never done that, but I will in a few weeks. New things to try/learn are always good.

I'm more a plan as you go guy. I know what I want my side profile to look like, as well as galley, cabinets, etc. I enjoy the process of seeing those ideas turn into reality. When I do a lot of advance planning, the plans always adjust & change, so I haven't done the whole sketch up thing. I have, however, spent far too many hours reading this forum, seeing what works and what doesn't. I bought and have read, twice, the steve Frederick manual. I'll make mistakes--in fact I've made 2 big ones already--so I've already figured out 2 solutions. I think that's kind of fun.

I'm not trying to build a work of art. I want a good, solid, dependable, functional, attractive TD. That's my goal.

I am still very intimidated by the whole electrical thing, but I keep reading and I know it's a while before I have to face it.

Good luck! Can't wait to see how these things turn out!

[Nobes]

Mrs. Nobes and I sat down tonight for a long chat about the TD. I asked her to search for galley ideas and other features she would like to see. She had lots of great ideas. As we talked, I told her about what I said in the previous post, that I am not after a work of art but something that is practical, reliable, functional, and attractive. As we talked we saw a different profile, one that would give us more room. I've never been a huge fan of the benroy look, but we found one that slightly modified it and we both liked it.

So, the Grumman is out and thanks to Richard Flake we will build a version between his "Model 96 Stream" and the benroy. Basically, it's a benroy with a slight curve on the bottom of the front, and a very small curve under the galley. Well, here it is:
I know, radical, right??

That is the exact door style I want. We will put a Wiley window in each door. I'll add a screen to each window. We may install a stargazer window. I'll stretch the whole thing to 9'. AND, now I have my sketch up plans done. Woo hoo!


Hopefully I will have the deck waterproofed, bolted on*, etc by next weekend, so I can start on the walls on Saturday 3/19. *in another thread I was 'encoutraged' to do more to tie the deck to the trailer than use the metal support/hinge things. The posters were persuasive, so I need to figure out how exactly to get that done. Again, that's the fun part!

And one more thing: I know I have been all over the place on wall construction. I was afraid to even think about joining plywood to get to my 9' length. I had 2 concerns--A, can I make a good joint, and second, will it look good with a non-continuous run? I have decided not only can I do it, it will look great. So, for real this time, seriously, the walls will be sandwich style with ash 1/4 ply on both sides. We still may change species, depends on what Mrs. Nobes wants, but it's 1/4 ply on each side of the sandwich.

I can't wait to get back to work on this thing next week!

[Nobes]

Mars. Nobes has very good taste. She selected Alder for the interior & exterior side skins. The top will likely be birch.


Is that beautiful or what? Now I just have to get that extra foot added to the 4x8 sheet. Trivial details. 5 sheets cost us only $140. I still need to pick up the framing pieces (poplar) and insulation from the big blue store.

The bath renovation job in MO went great. My bro-in-law cut the 6x20 wood-look tiles and I laid them. Except for the 3x3.5 piece that is 60% under the toilet that I laid with the grain going the wrong way (!!), it went well. 2 long days to do the whole room, but we were pleased. We decided the little grain-wrong-way tile would be my new signature and I'll do that on every job from now on. And, we got to drive through a very serious hailstorm in Oklahoma. Fun all the way around.

So today I got all my tools squared away, did a little touch up on the deck, bought that beautiful alder, and now I am sitting at AT&T getting the lovely and gracious Mrs. Nobes a new phone. Hopefully I will get a few hours on the build tonight, then be able to wrap up the deck portion by Friday and start on the walls on Saturday. Keeping my fingers crossed.

[Nobes]

Well I FINALLY got this thing flipped over. Before the flip I added more bracing between the vertical crossmembers then with some help turned it over. I then caulked everything and routed and chiseled along my wheel wells so I can get the fender bolted to the underside of the top of the deck after I get it all waterproofed and reattached to the trailer. I had to leave the trailer outside so I took one tire off as a security measure, since I don't have a cable and lock yet.

Earlier today I bought the black goo at Tractor Supply so tomorrow that is the where I start. I think realistically I am probably just going to get the deck completed this weekend and start on the walls late Sunday or Monday. I wish I could start on the walls Saturday, but it's probably not happening. I having difficulty getting my pictures uploaded so hopefully they will be added soon.

Last I want to say thanks to KC. I've read some other threads that say my plan of using 10 hurricane ties to attach the camper to the trailer is insufficient. I was thinking that with the large number of ties I have plenty of attachment strength. KC confirmed that for me so I am sticking with my plan. Appreciate the help KC!

[Nobes]

Photos went through.


The deck is finally flipped. You can see how I used 1x4 crossmembers installed vertically to get a wider deck above the tires with no wheel wells in the cabin.


I caulked all the crossmembers. Note that I added supports that will directly ride the trailer sides. Probably overkill.


Black goo goes on the underside, fillers that will attach to the trailer crossmembers, and two wooden crossmembers I made with tenons. I needed these since I used the folding trailers' two metal c-channel center crossmembers to strengthen and lengthen the trailer.


Since I have to leave the trailer outside a few days, I used a security method I learned from the site: remove a tire. Not sure if that is visible in this pic, but that's what I was trying to show here.

[Nobes]

Well that was a really, really boring niight of work.

I took the electrical, hitch and the second wheel off the trailer and spray painted as much as I could. Then I went and begged a neighbor to help me flip it, we did so, and then I painted the rest. I just painted the parts that may be visible when I'm done--the tongue, the outside sides of the rails, the axle. Then I painted the white steel rims. I used up 1 can of black paint and some left over high heat paint from giving my fireplace cover a facelift last summer. I left it in the driveway, upside down on kitty litter buckets with no wheels and its unique paint job of some red and some black. Here in Midland, Texas I'm hoping some Texas Tech fan doesn't decide he can find tires. And a hitch. And electrical.

Then I blew all the debris off the bottom of the deck and slopped black goo all over it. What a mess. Fortunately I got very little on me. I also painted the wooden crossmembers I made and the wooden fillers for the top of the metal crossmembers. I threw away the brush and roller I used. I have just enough of the goo left to trim spots I may have messed up while painting the small parts. I may have to buy some more down the line when I figure out my lower side rails--right now I have pine 1x6s but I'm afraid they will look terrible next to my nice alder sides, so I will hold off on installing those as long as I can.

Tomorrow I will put it all back together, and hopefully waterproof the top of the deck with The Mix.

Pics...

[Nobes]

Milestone 1 the trailer is assembled
Milestone 2 the floor/deck is done!!

With some help I got the trailer back on the sawhorses and reassembled, and the deck back on the trailer. I attached the deck to the trailer via 10 hurricane ties. Then I put 3 coats of the mix on the top--75/24, 50/50, then 25/75.

It's on to milestone 3, the walls! Step 1 is creating the template so that's where I start tomorrow.

[KCStudly]

So are you happy with the attachment method? Does it seem rock solid to you?