Foam Rimple "Greygoos"

[KCStudly]

Most people don't like to go any wider than their tow vehicle because doing so requires wider side view mirrors.

Beyond that, if you want to get specific, search for cantilevered beam formulas or on line calculators; they will require you to enter the correct data for your application, including 'live' and 'dead' loads and material specific properties. You will have to decide what factor to add for dynamic loading, as these calculators will assume a static structure, not one that is bouncing down the road. Remember: GIGO (garbage in = garbage out), so the more accurate your specs and assumptions, the more accurate the results will be.

... and now you know just enough to be dangerous!!!

[KCStudly]

Meant to add, if you stay inside the mirrors you should be okay with the standard building methods and materials used by everyone here. Remember, the trailer holds up the bulkheads, the bulkheads hold up the walls and the walls hold up the floor edge, so you will have a lot of structure there and just a short span from trailer rail to wall, so as long as your floor is of typical stiffness, you should be good. Most builders who build out over the fenders on a 4 wide trailer say that they have no problem extending up to a foot on either side without any special structural additions.

[greygoos]

Meant to add, if you stay inside the mirrors you should be okay with the standard building methods and materials used by everyone here. Remember, the trailer holds up the bulkheads, the bulkheads hold up the walls and the walls hold up the floor edge, so you will have a lot of structure there and just a short span from trailer rail to wall, so as long as your floor is of typical stiffness, you should be good. Most builders who build out over the fenders on a 4 wide trailer say that they have no problem extending up to a foot on either side without any special structural additions.

Thank you once again for your help. I am glad you chose to add the above post after your first answer, you had me stumped on the first one. I have built food service trailers and carts in the past but I gathered the customers needs and input and had a trailer frame built for them, then put it all where it was supposed to go.

[greygoos]

My original deck was 3/4 inch plywood form Home D. I used butt joints with a cleat, fiberglassed the seams and edges, mutiple coats of the mix and even used asphalt crack sealer on the bottom. I placed it back on the frame, all the holes had been drilled previously and started to fasten the bolts. On the first bolt I could hear the wood splitting as I cranked down on the nut. I wanted to see how far the bolt would be driven through the wood. Even with a washer it came right through the 3/4. After all the time and material I ripped it off and threw it out. Worst ply I have ever come across. I will stick to lumber yards from now on.

[KCStudly]

I don't think those bolts you showed are appropriate. The heads are relatively small and the countersunk head will only wedge the wood apart.

Elevator bolts or plain hex head with flat washers would be better.

Can you salvage the ply by laying in a Ducthman patch with half laps?

[greygoos]

[quote="KCStudly"]I don't think those bolts you showed are appropriate. The heads are relatively small and the countersunk head will only wedge the wood apart.

Elevator bolts or plain hex head with flat washers would be better.
As a matter of fact I used a torque washer with a carriage bolt and almost the same result. The deck is already cut and in the dumpster. New framed deck is halfway finished.

[greygoos]

Rimple is now a Simple. I have changed my plan. There will be no galley. A small cargo door in the rear will hold all of my electric. Battery box will be mounted to the side of the trailer adjacent to the fenders. An aluminum tongue box will hold a chuck box and miscellaneous etc. The walls will be glued to the sides of a wooden cabinet in the rear and a small foam cabinet in the front. Window and door are salvaged from an old RV.

[greygoos]

Here is a pic of the deck. It was made from 2x2 framing and 2 inch foam sandwiched with 1/2 ply on the bottom and 1/4 on top. I am a big guy and was leery about using 1/4 inch but with the foam in between it is strong. All of the edges were wrapped in fiberglass and epoxy. Crack filler was rolled on the edges and bottom. A PVC deck ledger was used as a frame.

[greygoos]

I decided to do a dry fit just to convince myself I was making some sort of progress. I am happy so far. Now I get to tear all it all down and do the filling, sanding and covering. I dont know why my pictures keep coming out sideways. I am open for suggestions.

[greygoos]

Trailer is finished and sold. It was purchased by a neighbor who wanted a mobile blind for hunting. I wound up adding another foot to the height and installing a 36 by 36 inch sliding window for viewing. The sides were originally covered in FRP. Lowes had a sale on clear corrugated (originally 24.50 a sheet marked down to 4.60 a sheet) so that was added as well to insure the seams were covered. Drip edge was installed on all the corners and the roof covered with metal pool wall that was installed and provided by the buyer. The entire trailer will be painted in flat camo. It will only travel 1 mile in either direction twice a year. My next build will not be a foamie. I am glad I tried it but it is not for me. I would like to thank Kenneth and KC for their help in answering questions and suggestions as well as the builders on here especially the Foamie builders.

[KCStudly]

You're quite welcome. Care to comment more about what you did and didn't like about the foamie technique?

[greygoos]

You're quite welcome. Care to comment more about what you did and didn't like about the foamie technique?

A Foamie has its advantages, ie weight, cost, correcting mistakes to name a few. The original plan was to skin the outside with FRP, which I did and then do the roof in canvas. I am not a big fan of the canvas over foam look, I prefer a more finished look. I also get more satisfaction putting a screw into something solid than using glue. I think it can be a great build for beginners and pros alike that are working on a budget. I started with a used trailer for 50.00 which I put new wheels and an axle on as well as lights. I bought the door with 2 windows from an old rv for 40.00. I probably spent less than 600.00 for the whole project. I sold the old axle (it was much too heavy for my needs) for 50.00 so the frame was free and my neighbor offered me 1200.00 without the canvas on the roof. He works for a pool company and they buy 58 inch wide replacement pool wall by the roll. He was going to buy a plastic blind with no insulation for 800.00 and then you have to move it. He was happy to pay me for the camper. The reason I built it in the first place was to keep my investment low and keep me busy. It came through on both counts.

[KCStudly]