Big Woody Build - St. Pete, FL

[toconnor602]

October 12th, 2016 - Ceiling

I installed additional spars so each joint of the tongue and groove ceiling would land on the middle of a spar. I worked all the way back and placed a larger spar where my rear cabinet face would be set. I then began to install the ceiling. Almost able to finish...but ended up I was about 1.5 boards too short.

[toconnor602]

October 13th, 2016 - Front Cabinet & Shelf

I installed my front shelf twice basically. I originally had a measuring block I was using to place the location of the shelf on the uprights, when I measured out the shelf I had the blocks cut to where the shelf would sit on the block. Well when I attached the shelf supports I placed the supports on the line where the shelf should be sitting. I also first set the uprights wrong as well. instead of sitting them outside my marked lines I set them inside. Thankfully I caught this before the glue fully set, I was able to pry the pieces off attach new scabs and get everything set correct. A lot of expletives were thrown out there...not my proudest moment. I then placed the back board for the shelf in...no issues there since it is just a rectangular piece.

[toconnor602]

Oct 15th - 19th, 2016 - Rear Cabinet Prep Work.

Unfortunately I did not take too many pictures during this stage.

I previously had a rear shelf built so I just needed to plan out my cabinet space. Also since I was installing a radio / dvd player I needed to mock that up as well. Before building the cabinet face i took out all the components and walked through how each would be installed and the space requirements, where the wiring would need to go, what areas would be closed and what areas I would need access to.

I was finally able to use my new butt joiner putting the cabinet face together. Note to self...make sure you are using a FLAT LEVEL SURFACE. I found out that the plywood I was using for my workstation was warped.... thus making my joints offset. Once I figured that out I was able to move each piece to a level surface re-do the joints and then secure together. I used my ratchet straps to compress everything, let sit over night. I then scraped off the excess glue and sanded down.

[toconnor602]

October 20, 2016 - Cabinet / Electrical Work

Some days everything goes wrong, but days like this one make up for it. I installed the front lights and ran the electrical through the ceiling down to the rear galley area where the control panel will be located, tested and everything worked. I installed the uprights for my rear cabinets, right on the money. Fit the cabinet into place and it was perfect...then installed the dvd and speakers and everything worked perfect as well.

[toconnor602]

October 20th, 2016 - Continued.

I was also able to finish the ceiling, install both exterior lights and interior cabin lights and switch in the main cabin. Since the middle of the rear cabinet will remain open (no door going on) i continued the beadboard in here as well.

[toconnor602]

October 21st, 2016 - Rear & Front Cabinet

Let the good times roll!!

I finished the rear cabinets by completing the roof ( I used 1/4" maple veneer plywood stained to match). For the backboard I was planning on using 1 solid piece but there would have been a bunch of wasted space so I cut the board to leave the bottom open for now (I will address this later when doing galley cabinets).

I then measured and cut all the pieces for my front cabinet face and strapped them down to set the glue (i left them strapped down for 6 hours before I moved them to set the rest of the night. I made sure my butt joints were all completed on a level surface and everything fit together perfectly.

[toconnor602]

October 22nd, 2016 - Front & Galley Cabinet


I scraped, sanded, stained, sealed and installed the front cabinet face. Fit like a glove. I then placed and marked the location of my last spar. Once temporarily in place I measured, cut, glued and strapped the rear galley cabinet face.

the ends toward the galley bowed out a bit so I used some claps and ratchet straps to draw them in a little. I did not try to get them perfect as I was worried about springback and stripping screws once fully installed.

[toconnor602]

October 23rd, 2016 - Galley Cabinet

the glue is all set, it took a little planer work on the sides and top to fit it in snug under my rear spar. I cut the hole for the 2 gang box and 12v outlet. I then cut the the uprights and top. Sanded everything down, stained, sealed and installed.

I cut the bottom of the rear panel on each side. I then have a knob holding them in place. this way I can remove the back panels and access the wiring for the radio if needed as well as use this area for extra storage if needed. I plan on having a little "survival" kit stored in there with all the supplies I would need to make on the go repairs...hopefully not needed.

[toconnor602]

October 24th, 2016 - Electrical

Getting ready to put the roof on so I need to ensure all the electrical works before enclose it all in. I was not happy with the 1/4" push on terminal connectors I got from Amazon (used these on my 12v outlet in the main cabin & light switch in main cabin). The connections kept coming apart, so I replaced all these connectors. I found that I really like the Ace Hardware connectors of all types. They hold really firm.

I ran all my dc wires to a terminal in the rear galley, I cut the hole for my 30 amp inlet, Made my 120 to 30 amp cable. made a ground bar in the galley.

One thing that saved me was labeling every cable from the beginning. after running wires 10 separate connections the wires became a jumbled mess in the back. I was easily able to find my label, untangle the wire and put it in the correct location.

I hooked up the main power cable first then identified and labeled the connections coming out of the back of the PD4045. I did this by placing only 1 fuse at a time and using my multimeter to find the correct cable. This is the easiest way as the cables are packed in tight on the dc side of this unit.

I used ring terminals for each of the 12v connections.

Hooked up the 120 lines to the corresponding circuit breakers. I had 12 gauge solid copper wire so that was a PITA trying to work in such a tight spot (I changed this later).

Now time to test it.........

Everything worked....holy crap!!!!! I left it on for an hour to make sure I did not see anything burning or fuses popping. Quite proud of myself at this moment. definitely appreciate everyone who took time out to answer my questions on the electrical.

I also started laying some of the flooring in the cabin. This was a late night. I think i finally packed everything up around 1:30am

[toconnor602]

One last post before I start enjoying my Turkey Day. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone who has taken the time to follow my build!

October 26th, 2016 - Roof Insulating and Hardboard

I set my rear spar in place and secured it to the walls. I then laid down 3/4" insulation through every space in the roof. This was then followed up with some recycled insulation. I used this because I hate the fiberglass insulation and I figure I have already killed enough trees to build this camper, so why not give back a little. I tucked this into every crevice.

I then laid glue on every spar and worked my way from the back toward the front. It is going to be placed on in 3 separate sections as I am building a 5' wide and this seemed the easiest. I then ran ratchet straps over top and slowly worked it into place. Once it was exactly where I wanted it i stapled it down with 1/5" staples. I probably went overboard on the staples......but I can assure you this hardboard is not coming off. I left the straps on overnight and let the glue set.

[Philip]

I like the bead board ceiling. Its a lot different to what most people use.

[ELM]

Great work your doing there it's looking great. It is a nice feeling when your electrical work works like it's suppose to.

[toconnor602]

I like the bead board ceiling. Its a lot different to what most people use.

Thanks Phillip!

[toconnor602]

Great work your doing there it's looking great. It is a nice feeling when your electrical work works like it's suppose to.

Yup I felt like Clark Griswold in A Christmas Vacation plugging it in....thankfully it worked the first time though haha

[toconnor602]

October 27th - 31st, 2016 - Party/Doors

I took a few days off to celebrate Halloween with some friends. We were throwing a little get together at our house for Halloween, which also ended up being our going away party as well.

I ordered the sheet Metal and while waiting for that to be delivered I worked on both doors. Once I put on the aluminum trim for the door opening, the doors required a little more sanding to fit correct. A lot of patience and sanding a little at a time and I have a pretty good fit on both sides. the left definitely fits a lot better.

I commented to my wife that I wish I had a "practice trailer" that I could go through each process on because I always learn something that I would have done different once finished...examples so far at this stage:

- Sand the corners last when working on the spacing for the doors...do the straight edges first as you are bound to take off more material on the corners when working on the flat edges
- Move the exterior lights back 6 inches so the wires are hidden behind the cabinet face
- Use stranded instead of solid wire...makes for easier hookups in the electrical panel
- If using ratchet straps to compress the cabinet facing make sure to weigh down the joints as well so they don't bow in
- Make sure you have the valve stem facing out when putting your tire on the trailer...if it is facing in you have it on backward
- Cut your holes for the electrical before installing the cabinet shelves or spars...jigsaws dont work well in small spaces....also buy a multitool from harbor freight...this works great for cutting the square holes.

Those are just a few off the top of my head....many many more!