How not to build a trailer

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

How not to build a trailer

Postby Thelgord » Sat Oct 22, 2016 5:32 pm

Is it possible to be OCD and impulsive at the same time? I think that's my issue, so I decided to catalog my build here.

First, some pictures of the trailer when I first got it.

http://i.imgur.com/NxNuw5G.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/WPEVK70.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zYEJEMe.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/S2sqE6g.jpg

That's how its sat when I paid for it. It cost me $500 from CL. It was built by a farmer who used it for, whatever a farmer would use such a trailer for. I am not a farmer. The thing was built like a tank, and very heavy.

My first step was to gut as much excess steel of the trailer as I could. This caused me endless headaches of chasing rust, it was very invasive. Fortunately it was all surface rust. I removed the rear bumper (sold for $100 on CL), the steel floor and decided redo the cargo rack into some sort of frame for a roof.

http://i.imgur.com/85sDgqb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rb7COgH.jpg

Then the Army decided it was time to move, just in time for Christmas no less. So I put in a temp plywood floor, threw in some stuff the movers didn't take and drove to GA. This was horrible actually. Apparently there was a winter super storm in Texas, so I figured I could around the storm by going across Kansas. The super high winds kept my speed down around 60 while pulling nearly 3000 RPM and getting around 10 MPG. It was like dragging a boat anchor, for a battleship. Once I hit Illinois the trip got much better. Then I got to Kentucky and had to do an emergency re-alignment of the leaf springs, but the trailer made it to Georgia just fine.

Once in Georgia I rented a temp house until I could buy one where I could work on the trailer some more. However, the trip taught me a lot, like this trailer was just to darn heavy for its own good.

My next steps was to remove what was left of the roof rack and the large utility boxes.

http://i.imgur.com/kB1QYAu.jpg

These things weighed far more than I thought they would. I would estimate somewhere in the ~4-500 pound range, each. If they fell over, like the first one did in the above pic, I could not stand it back up again on my own, and I am not exactly unfit. I ended up getting a bar under it and slowly raising it on blocks until I could use my high-lift jack under it. After two weekends of some serious labor, I finally got them to their final resting place in my shed. They do make amazing tool boxes.

After I got the first box off I notice a broken weld on one side just above the leaf springs.

http://i.imgur.com/1zkH2wr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bYFwLB5.jpg

Thanks to the super amount of knowledge here, I was informed that the wrong hardware had been used. Rounded bolts on a square axle. Based on the info from this forum I got the new hardware in the other day. Squared U-Bolts and plate side for my axle and leaf springs. $45.45 for both sides isn't bad I think.

This is how the trailer sits now.

http://i.imgur.com/HhawOjz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IKwAQsz.jpg

I have been able to confirm (my neighbor as it happens own a custom trailer shop in my new town, but unless you are buying from him he is not very friendly, so yes, I paid for the inspection) that the axle is (or was) rated for 2000 pounds. The boxes, the original steel floor, the steel bumper, and all of the rest of the steel I have taken off, I am certain weighed more than that when it was empty. However, he checked out the axle and couldn't find serious concerns. The wheel angles are all still correct and it doesn't look like it is bent anywhere. So that's good news at least.

Then I found this.

http://i.imgur.com/pTrb2k4.jpg

If you look at one of the earlier pictures you will notice there is a secondary 2x4 frame inside the main frame. The above pic shows why. Apparently the farmer who built the trailer didn't have a single length long enough, so he butt-jointed two pieces of the 2x4 steel tube together, then put in a third piece on the inside of the frame to support it. It is in the same spot on both sides, and at the same angle.

And while I could have saved money (maybe) or at least done it right the first time, by building from scratch, I would then be out 2 amazing tool boxes, so I don't feel bad even if I end up scrapping the entire frame and starting over. Between the tool boxes and the axle I still got a deal for $500. But this does change my design choices and/or options.

Each "section" of 2x4 tube is right about 5' 10" long. They each have an angled cut at one end so the length is a little different depending where you measure. The frame tubes actually go quite a ways under the steel mesh. However, the spring hangers are on a single piece of frame tube. I am considering chopping the frame just past the center weld to make the frame an even 6 feet or so, then rotating the axle so the tongue comes off the other end. I would then be able to use the inside 2x4 pieces for either a new tongue or run them across as cross-members.

Either way, my design is going to have to be changed (dramatically) to make this workout in any sort of way. Unfortunately I have to pull duty this weekend, so not a lot is going to get done. Next weekend however (or maybe throughout the week) there will be more cutting. I still have to remove the mesh off the tongue and inspect all of that as well as finish removing the rest of the vertical posts.

Anyway, that's my "build", as it were up to this point. The struggle continues....
Thelgord
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Re: How not to build a trailer

Postby Padilen » Sat Oct 22, 2016 8:44 pm

Sell it and get the correct size. It would be worth a couple hundred easily.


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Re: How not to build a trailer

Postby Thelgord » Sat Oct 22, 2016 8:59 pm

That would be the easy answer.

:D
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Re: How not to build a trailer

Postby Padilen » Sat Oct 22, 2016 9:42 pm

Oh I can suggest them I just don't do them.


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Re: How not to build a trailer

Postby Thelgord » Sat Oct 22, 2016 10:19 pm

My wife says I am a glutton for punishment, which is probably why I married her! LOL!
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Re: How not to build a trailer

Postby Thelgord » Fri Nov 11, 2016 9:54 pm

Update:

Almost got the frame stripped. Still need two more cuts to finish getting the tongue off. I ran out of cutting disks. Once I got all the extra bits off I was able to take some measurements. The deck is 4' 3/4" wide and 8' 9 3/4" long. The frame is also strait and square. So think I will keep it. I have a plan to remount the tongue so it is level, or nearly so, with the deck, but definitely not taking up almost two feet on top of the frame.

Once the tongue is off, I can get started on cleaning the frame and prep for putting it back on.
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Re: How not to build a trailer

Postby Thelgord » Sat Nov 12, 2016 4:35 pm

Another update:

Got the tongue off. What a nightmare of a weld job it was. Curb side, no problem, cut the welds, side comes loose. Road side, that was an adventure in frustration. At one point I thought I was going to forced to cut the frame to get it off. But I did win the fight, but only to loose another one.

A while back I ordered the new square u-bolts and plate for my axle. I figured now would be a good time to change it out. Of course, me being me, I figured as long as the leaf springs are on the ground, why not clean them up. So I pull out my trusty ginger and start working away. I found a guide on here on how to recondition them so I was following that. The first two leafs, no problem. Cleaned right up. A fresh coat of paint and set them to the side.

I started getting worried with the third one. It had some nasty pits rusted out of it, but I manage to smooth them out for the most part without taking too much metal off. Then I I started on leaf #4. There was pit that was nearly a hole. After grinding away on both side I could see just how deep the hole was, nearly all the way the through. After checking the rest of them, they were in even rougher shape.

I was hoping to salvage the leaf pack, but no dice. They are just too far gone. Fortunately e-trailer has a set that will fit. With new bolts it's just under $75. Not to bad really. I do have to wait a while before I buy though. The master of budgets (my lovely wife) says to wait. Oh well. There is still plenty of other items to take care of that don't require spending money. Putting a new tongue on for one. I may also move put a new tab on the axle to switch to spring over. Before I do I will wait and see the ride height of the new leaf pack.

At this point it would almost be easier to just scrap the frame I have and start from scratch. The battle continues....
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Re: How not to build a trailer

Postby Padilen » Sat Nov 12, 2016 7:33 pm

Do you have a Tractor Supply or Farm and Family nearby? They carry leafs.


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Re: How not to build a trailer

Postby tac422 » Sat Nov 12, 2016 7:55 pm

I doubt they would work... but I have a brand new set of Harbor Freight springs you can have for shipping costs.
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Re: How not to build a trailer

Postby Thelgord » Sat Nov 12, 2016 8:08 pm

tac422 wrote:I doubt they would work... but I have a brand new set of Harbor Freight springs you can have for shipping costs.


Thanks for the offer. My spring hangers are 27" eye to eye. I am not sure how long the HF ones are. They are also 1 3/4" springs. I am not sure if all that makes much difference. But if they are correct size I would be interested.
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Re: How not to build a trailer

Postby tac422 » Sat Nov 12, 2016 8:28 pm

I just checked, they are 2" wide and about 21" between hangers.
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Re: How not to build a trailer

Postby Thelgord » Sat Nov 12, 2016 8:34 pm

Well dang it. Thanks anyway! I really do appreciate the offer.
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