Off-road Teardrop Design/Build

[kokomoto]

....the hatch spar is already epoxied with RAKA. I presume sanding the spar a bit and using something like PL Premium will work for getting a good bond between the shim and spar.

Yes to scuffing it up, but Why not just use more epoxy?

Do the screws go thru the face of the spar or in from the top? If through the face, the shim will be clamped by the screws in the end anyway, so I guess it isn't that critical.

I hadn't used the RAKA as an adhesive before, but you're right, that would work fine. The hinge is the HT06 from http://www.teardroptrailerparts.com/, and it appears that the screws go in from the top. However, I don't see a problem with putting a few screws through the face.

Thanks again!

[kokomoto]

I've had trouble finding a supplier for .040 x 60" x 144" aluminum sheet. I've tried the trailer repair/manufacturers and such.

SAF in Atlanta has it in .063. Some folks on this forum have used it without too much trouble. I don't have any tight radii on my TD, so I don't think it will be too much trouble to fit it. The downside is the additional weight. The upside is it is probably less prone to dents and such. It's probably overkill, but ... it is available, and better than having a seam in the roof.

BTW, total price for roof, hatch, and 2 sides $466.96 shipped.

Back to the doors and fitting windows and latches.

[kokomoto]

Built a jig to figure out the door latch mounting before I try to mount it in the door. Very glad I did.

Latch mockup 3

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Latch mockup 1

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Latch mockup 2

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Clearly I have to design this better before installing in the door

[kokomoto]

I've learned the hard way that lots of weights on a glue up is not a bad thing. No more gaps!

Door 1

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Also made some progress on the tongue box.

Tongue box 1

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Tongue box 2

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[KCStudly]

I was able to fit my door latches w/o cutting everything away in way of the bolt. Had to file a couple of small spots for it to slip in, but they all still got covered up by the flange, so I figure it is that much more sturdy.

I can dig back through my build and post links/pics if you like.

[kokomoto]

I was able to fit my door latches w/o cutting everything away in way of the bolt. Had to file a couple of small spots for it to slip in, but they all still got covered up by the flange, so I figure it is that much more sturdy.

I can dig back through my build and post links/pics if you like.

I think I understand what your're describing. A pic/link would be helpful if it's not too much trouble. Thanks!

[aggie79]

I used a similar lockset. It was easier for me to cut away all of the material on one side of the lockset so that I could fit the backset portion into the recess. I used a piece of 1/8" aluminum strap to bridge the gap and capture the backset.

I made a jig similar to yours. If you look closely at the jig with the lockset "mocked-up" you can see the recess for the strap.



This is the finished installation.



The strap doesn't look too bad - at least I don't think it looks bad - and really strengthens the lock.

[KCStudly]

A pic/link would be helpful if it's not too much trouble. Thanks!

After seeing Tom's pics it occurs to me that my doors may be thicker than most traditional builds; 1-1/2 foam, 5mm inner skin, 2 plies 6oz FG cloth outer, so a bit over 1-11/16 thk.
Linky to recessing the custom SS bolt plates where you can see the bolt hole.

[kokomoto]

I used a similar lockset. It was easier for me to cut away all of the material on one side of the lockset so that I could fit the backset portion into the recess. I used a piece of 1/8" aluminum strap to bridge the gap and capture the backset.

I made a jig similar to yours. If you look closely at the jig with the lockset "mocked-up" you can see the recess for the strap.



This is the finished installation.



The strap doesn't look too bad - at least I don't think it looks bad - and really strengthens the lock.

I like that idea. It looks good, and makes the whole assembly easier. Thanks!

[kokomoto]

A pic/link would be helpful if it's not too much trouble. Thanks!

After seeing Tom's pics it occurs to me that my doors may be thicker than most traditional builds; 1-1/2 foam, 5mm inner skin, 2 plies 6oz FG cloth outer, so a bit over 1-11/16 thk.
Linky to recessing the custom SS bolt plates where you can see the bolt hole.

That's some fine woodwork. I hope mine looks half that good. This project has been my first use of a router, and I find I'm a little clumsy with it. It's a steep learning curve.

The core of my door(s) is 3/4" birch ply skinned with 1/4" (about 3/16" actual) plywood on both sides with an additional 1/4" piece at the latch as a filler. I think that comes out to about 1 3/8" total thickness at the latch. I was considering covering the gap on the inside with a piece of 1/8" ply trim piece, but now I'm reconsidering....

I'm not skilled enough to be OCD on this, but I do want these latches to work as smooth as possible.

[kokomoto]

Almost finished with the first door. Starting on the second, which should go a lot faster using some jigs created on the first one.

Latch cut-out 1

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Also made some progress on the tongue box. It should be ready for epoxy tomorrow.

Tongue box 1

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Tongue box 2

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[kokomoto]

Got a start on the 2nd door tonight after checking the fit of the first door, installing the fenders, and putting the tongue box on.

Door check - port side

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Tongue box 1

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Tongue box 2

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[KCStudly]

Good work. Nice door shape.

[dirtsailor2003]

Nice build! Looking forward to seeing it all ready to go.

[kokomoto]

Good work. Nice door shape.

Thanks! I chose DIY doors because I wanted to use a specific window, but it's a ton of work.