Raven's Nest - Update 5/28/18

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Raven's Nest - Update 5/28/18

Postby Staryder61 » Wed Nov 01, 2017 7:59 pm

Planning on the Tear to be 5' w x 10'-6" l x 54" h. This our first build. Starting out with an old 17' tri-hull boat trailer, with 13" wheels. Started working on trailer 10/29/2017
Last edited by Staryder61 on Mon May 28, 2018 2:14 pm, edited 11 times in total.
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby Staryder61 » Wed Nov 01, 2017 8:09 pm

Started with grinding off all extra metal, roller brackets.
Last edited by Staryder61 on Thu Dec 07, 2017 12:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby Staryder61 » Wed Nov 01, 2017 8:20 pm

Took enough time to read up on some forums and comments from my earlier posts under newbies. Some great information about axle placement. Made a trip to a local small trailer maker. After talking awhile came home with the new springs, shackle hangers, u-bolts and new hitch.

Tomorrow morning will start grinding off old springs and hangers, cut the tongue off. Using the 60/40 rule, the tongue is about 2 feet too long. :thinking:

Want to have everything hopefully ready by Saturday when a friend brings a welder over.

Will keep everyone updated..... :pictures:
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby pchast » Wed Nov 01, 2017 9:00 pm

Welcome...... :D
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby Staryder61 » Thu Nov 02, 2017 1:28 am

Rough scale drawing for trailer modifications and axle placement.
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby swoody126 » Thu Nov 02, 2017 7:18 am

Staryder61 wrote:......

Tomorrow morning will start grinding off old springs and hangers, cut the tongue off. Using the 60/40 rule, the tongue is about 2 feet too long. :thinking:

......


might suggest doing some serious measuring before cutting the tongue

my personal rules of thumb on tongue length include:

long enough so the tow vehicle bumper can't reach the trailer body when fully jacknifed

tongue jack AND trailer body far enough back so tailgate will open EASILY while hitched to tow vehicle

make sure the coupler you purchase can be padlocked while hitched to the tow vehicle(not just pinned)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oo7Wz ... 78-h640-no

and while you're at it lock the hitch pin

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mtsoA ... 78-h640-no

no need to ask why i make these suggestions :)

sw
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby Staryder61 » Thu Nov 02, 2017 8:43 am

swoody126

Thanks, will be double checking all measurements again today. I believe in the old saying
measure twice, cut once
. a hard lesson to learn from experience. :oops:

I lost a 16' utility trailer (no lock) in a parking lot several years ago. It's amazing how quick something can be taken.
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby pchast » Thu Nov 02, 2017 8:40 pm

I understand your calculations. Personally, I would not cut the tongue
until the unit is finished and you can park your Tow Vehicle next to it.

:thinking:
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal - update 11/3/2017

Postby Staryder61 » Fri Nov 03, 2017 9:13 am

Well, as I have read on here. Think about what you want. Put it on paper. Check it, change it. Then think about it again and make more changes.. :FNP
As of today I have, all roller brackets off. and every other metal part that is not needed.
Luckily, I have not cut off tongue, springs yet. :roll:
The axle placement in above sketch can not possibly be right. The 5' center from the back of the trailer would put all of the galley weight behind the axle center.
Back to the calculator to try and figure out the weight, and the axle placement again..
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Raven's Nest- Tear Build Journal - profile sketch 11/4/17

Postby Staryder61 » Sat Nov 04, 2017 1:43 am

The first sketch of profile and working out cabinets, shelves, mattress placement..

Any feed back would be appreciated..
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Tear profile - first sketch.jpg
Tear profile - first sketch.jpg (14.68 KiB) Viewed 2171 times
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby dogpound101 » Sat Nov 04, 2017 5:39 am

Bottom left corner of door looks like it might hit where tire should be. Might move door forward a little. Just thinking


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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby Staryder61 » Sat Nov 04, 2017 11:20 am

Thanks.. Good point.. working on weight distribution right now to be able to figure out axle placement. Then can adjust door if needed..
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Re: Raven's Nest- Build update 11/5/17

Postby Staryder61 » Sun Nov 05, 2017 4:51 pm

Frustrated: fell behind waiting on the welding to be done on the modified boat trailer. Decided to work my frustration out on something I know and enjoy. (Working with wood). Heading to HD, to pick up a 1/4" or 3/8" sheet of plywood to work out my profile template. Will use it to draw and cut everything to size. Then as a template, can set-up my router and get both sides identical.
Going with the 3 layer sides to include 3/4" skeleton, cut-out for foam and skinned both sides with 1/4" . Inside skin will be red oak.
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby KCStudly » Thu Nov 09, 2017 9:42 am

Also on the door, the rule of thumb typically used is that you want the door sill to be no higher than about half the mattress thickness. That way the sill doesn't dig into the backs of your legs when sitting in the doorway.

The method for setting door position is commonly referred to as "sit and spin". You can use your regular (home) bed to get an initial measurement, but it also helps to have a mock-up of your door frame. Basically you sit where your bottom will be when you are laying down, roll back to pull your legs in, and spin to where your head lands on the pillow. Having the door frame mocked up helps you decide on how wide to make the door so you aren't whacking your knees or having trouble swinging your feet through. Once you get an idea of where you like the door/mattress relationship to be, double/triple check that the door opening, with all of its trim, will clear where the fender needs to be.
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby aggie79 » Thu Nov 09, 2017 10:31 am

KCStudly wrote:Also on the door, the rule of thumb typically used is that you want the door sill to be no higher than about half the mattress thickness. That way the sill doesn't dig into the backs of your legs when sitting in the doorway.

The method for setting door position is commonly referred to as "sit and spin". You can use your regular (home) bed to get an initial measurement, but it also helps to have a mock-up of your door frame. Basically you sit where your bottom will be when you are laying down, roll back to pull your legs in, and spin to where your head lands on the pillow. Having the door frame mocked up helps you decide on how wide to make the door so you aren't whacking your knees or having trouble swinging your feet through. Once you get an idea of where you like the door/mattress relationship to be, double/triple check that the door opening, with all of its trim, will clear where the fender needs to be.


:thumbsup:

Your 3' wide door is generously wide. If tire clearance is a problem, you could scale back the width to 30". With the extra height of your teardrop you may want to consider extending the door height to gain extra clearance. It won't hurt your structure. For reference, our teardrop door is 30" wide by 36" tall at the peak on a 4' overall tall teardrop body. We don't have any issues entering and exiting the teardrop, but we're less than 6' tall. If you're 6' or taller, the extra door height would be beneficial.
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