Raven's Nest - Update 5/28/18

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby KCStudly » Mon Apr 30, 2018 2:29 pm

Be mindful that the wire color coding that comes with some 7-pin pigtails does not always jive with the color coding for trailer wires. I know this sounds stupid, and it is, but I have seen it where the card that came attached to the pigtail does not match published trailer convention. Make sure you went by end service of the wire pin by pin not the colors. (After writing this I went and looked at e-trailer, and it looks like the convention is different for utility/equipment/cargo trailers than RV/5th wheel, about half way down this page.)

Don't get confused by the diagram either; they may show it from the back shell of the connector vs. the male or female pin end, and from the vehicle side vs. the trailer side. the e-trailer link above shows it from all four different perspectives; you have to go by the numbered pin location regardless.
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby Staryder61 » Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:33 pm

Nobes wrote:Great work by your son. Very cool stuff!
Hate to hear about your back. I had similar issues during my build, eventually leading to back surgery. Hope you don't go there.
I hear you on losing motivation. I thought about changing the name of mine to the Frustration.
Wiring: I can't help much, I'm surprised I got mine done. Lots of things on here say the white ground wire just goes to the trailer chassis. When I did that, I had nothing. When I finally grounded each light, everything worked. Not sure that makes sense. It's also ok to find somebody who knows wiring to come to your shop & help! Good luck--
Good looking build, keep going!


Thanks Nobes, I'm really proud of the work my son did.. :thumbsup: For the back issue, it's passing finally, Thankfully..
They've talked about surgery in the past, but I'm just not ready for that.. :D
On the motivation track, was just so many things that kept getting in the way.. after venting, I had a long talk with myself and decided I'm doing this.. it's fun to build and we'll enjoy it so much.. GO ON, GET OVER IT, and get it done.. :roll: ;)
I too, initially tried the trailer ground, PiFFFF it didn't work to well, so wired everything with a designated ground.. things worked a lot better..


Thanks, KC and Working on it and lincolnlerner, I went to a friend here in town today that deals with autos.. he explained that some wiring harnesses are not the same also. (Doesn't figure, Make the darn things universal and go on) He did loaned me a top quality volt multi-meter to check everything out, and a quick tutorial on how to use it.. so now I can check everything out on the Suburban and then the trailer..

KC, I checked out the page, great diagrams.. that helps too

I still think the oddest thing about all this is, no fuses were blown.... :thinking: :roll:

Thank y'all, for checking out this post and trying to help with this problem... different views help a lot.. I appreciate it very much...
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby Staryder61 » Fri May 04, 2018 11:01 am

The 7pin to 4pin adapter was not wired the same as the 7pin on the back of the Suburban. :(
So I have bought a 7pin replacement for the 4pin on the trailer side. Will cut off the 4pin and wire the 7pin in it's place, making sure the wiring matches the Suburban wiring.. Hopefully that will take care of my problem..
Wiring this all right with the 7pin will also let me charge the tear battery from the Suburban, when I get it all wired right.. :thinking: :)
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby swoody126 » Fri May 04, 2018 11:54 am

there have been 2 different 7-pin configurations over the years

look at the wiring diagram on the back of the packages and then simply compare them to the 'burban's plug

HOWEVER 'taint a wrong idea to have TV charging capability ;-)

7-pin also provides back up light connections

sw
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby Staryder61 » Fri May 04, 2018 3:03 pm

swoody126 wrote:there have been 2 different 7-pin configurations over the years

look at the wiring diagram on the back of the packages and then simply compare them to the 'burban's plug

HOWEVER 'taint a wrong idea to have TV charging capability ;-)

7-pin also provides back up light connections

sw


Thanks sw,

We did figure out not all 7pin's are the same..

KC, posted a page https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx on here from etrailer that shows the diagrams.. it was the one I used to figure out my adapter was wrong..

Always did like the TV charging idea :) and was also thinking :thinking: of the back-up light capability.. as you mentioned..

Sure helps being on this forum, to get ideas and opinions from others..

Thanks, David
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby swoody126 » Fri May 04, 2018 3:24 pm

.......

Sure helps being on this forum, to get ideas and opinions from others..

Thanks, David[/quote]

OPINIONS are just like noses...

some smell better than others... ;-)

sw
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby KCStudly » Sat May 05, 2018 1:36 pm

You can check on the electrical forum for details, but be reminded that you want to either disconnect your harness when in camp, or have a turn off relay, so that your camper can't discharge your start battery when the alternator isn't turning.
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby Staryder61 » Sat May 05, 2018 2:20 pm

KCStudly wrote:You can check on the electrical forum for details, but be reminded that you want to either disconnect your harness when in camp, or have a turn off relay, so that your camper can't discharge your start battery when the alternator isn't turning.


KC, good point.

Disconnecting the harness, will work in camp..

Though, at a roadside park, was thinking of two different alternatives,
1. Running the power from a keyed circuit ( power windows or locks ). Which will disconnect the second battery when key is turned off.
2. Adding a solenoid to the circuit..

I'll check out the electrical forum and see what others have done..
Thanks, David
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby swoody126 » Sat May 05, 2018 8:16 pm

my Ford's TV > trailer charging system is managed by the ignition switch

when the engine isn't running the circuit is open and therefore doesn't discharge the TV starting batteries

i do have the factory towing pkg

you might check w/ your dealer's service tech about this

sw
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby working on it » Sat May 05, 2018 9:45 pm

Staryder61 wrote:
KCStudly wrote:You can check on the electrical forum for details, but be reminded that you want to either disconnect your harness when in camp, or have a turn off relay, so that your camper can't discharge your start battery when the alternator isn't turning.


KC, good point.

Disconnecting the harness, will work in camp..

Though, at a roadside park, was thinking of two different alternatives,
1. Running the power from a keyed circuit ( power windows or locks ). Which will disconnect the second battery when key is turned off.
2. Adding a solenoid to the circuit..

I'll check out the electrical forum and see what others have done..
Thanks, David
  • When I changed my trailer wiring from a 4-pin to 7-pin, after adding brakes, I decided not to utilize the charging circuit, to keep my AGM battery up to snuff. Instead, I use a battery maintainer at home, and at camp, as well. My electrical draws are so low, using LED lighting (both 115vac and 12vdc), and computer case fans for venting, that I figured that it wasn't worth hooking it up to the tow vehicle.
  • So far, I've only camped at water/electric sites, where my needs were fulfilled by the 115vac park power supply, and if I needed to, I also have the 2500 watt generator onboard to supplant it. During cooler camping weather, even my 6.5 year-old Optima Yellowtop can handle all my electrical needs for a three-day trip, without help. Why should I need to hook up the TV's alternator to charge the trailer battery, on the usually 3-hour max trip to camp, and possibly incur other problems.
  • I've had more than my share of electrical problems with my trucks, over the years, whether using home-made battery isolator systems or factory-built for my vehicle, And failed diodes on just about every alternator series I've used; makes me leery to use any system that might discharge my starting battery, if away from ready help. My bad luck with automotive electrical spans 52 years, when my first '56 Chevy's generator (not alternator) caught fire, for reasons unknown to me. I also carried back-up voltage regulators until I switched to one-wire alternators.
  • The reason I'm chiming in on this electrical discussion is : unless it's absolutely necessary to wire your TV to your trailer, why take a chance on possible problems, especially while on the road? If you want to power a fridge (12vdc or 115vac w/inverter) while enroute, is it really necessary to do so during a most-likely short hop (3-8 hours)? If you prepare ahead, frozen blocks/jugs/bottles can be placed inside the fridge to maintain the cold, until you could plug back in. Frozen foods wouldn't defrost much during that time period, either. Longer hops might cause you a problem, but how many of us want to drive 12 hours, then set up camp after dark? Not me, I've got old eyes!
  • It may just be my paranoia over a history of bad diodes, mostly, causing my battery to go dead when on long trips (3 times!), but I won't take that chance, anymore, even though I'm now very confident in my wiring (but, I didn't manufacture those darn diodes, did I?). I'm about to put a dorm fridge in my TTT, prior to my next trip, just to keep some items cool, others partially frozen, onboard the trailer, without hassling with ice, ice, ice. My refreshments will be kept in std. coolers...they can even be consumed at "just barely cool" temperatures, but eggs, meats, cheese need a little more dependable help. So, I'll cool off the dorm fridge for 3 days prior to the trip, only unplugging it as I leave, then plug it back in upon arrival at camp. Nothing will spoil, and the 115vac fridge will be cooled back down in a matter of a few hours. Maybe, if I could justify using a 12vdc Engel, regularly, then I might take the risk of TV-Trailer 12vdc wiring, but in my case, just temporarily using my office fridge (not bought yet, but already in my Amazon cart!) in the trailer, I'll not need that type of circuit.
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  • A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby Staryder61 » Sat May 05, 2018 11:04 pm

swoody126 wrote:my Ford's TV > trailer charging system is managed by the ignition switch

when the engine isn't running the circuit is open and therefore doesn't discharge the TV starting batteries

i do have the factory towing pkg

you might check w/ your dealer's service tech about this

sw


sw,,
Suburban has a factory tow package on it..
I was told today it should have a camper isolator already on it..
like the one on this page:https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2729/lighting---electrical-16777/relays-16479/miscellaneous-relays-16567/auxiliary-battery-relay-11574/6a812f292961/acdelco-relay/12135194/5744568/2003/chevrolet/suburban-1500?q=Auxiliary+Battery+Relay&pos=0

working on it,,
Very good points too...
Stranded one night around midnight, in Springfield Missouri, with a bad alternator.
Have a battery charger on the tear, can maintain it..

Or add a converter. run power to the converter, charger plugged into converter, connect to battery.. Think I saw this wiring run on here somewhere,, have to check on that.. think it was capn telescope..

If not, just make sure battery is charged and maintained before leaving for camping, hook up to shore power while at the campsite..

It works, David
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby lincolnlerner » Sun May 06, 2018 6:18 pm

Unfortunately some cars will not start if the alternator goes bad. Despite fresh batteries, professional chargers and jumps. I'm looking at you escrapalade.

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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby Staryder61 » Wed May 09, 2018 1:07 am

Small update,, for all our friends..

Raven is on hold again,, GHEEEESH :(
I started this in November 2017 and thought (OH WOW) can have it done by April 2018..
Did really good for the first few months,, then life and health got in the way. Continues to do so... :NC not certain what will happen next..

Last month was my back, had also found out I had plumbing problems with the veins in my legs :roll: .. well left leg was worked on yesterday (Monday).. at Austin Heart and Vein Center.. Let me tell you, they are amazing people there.. everyone was very upbeat yet professional. They did their best to help me stay calm through it all.. because I wasn't when I arrived..
Any way, one leg down :) .. recovery will not be real long, nothing for 2 days then couple weeks light duty.. then decide when to do the next leg.. :thinking:

As for the Raven,, she's waiting patiently.. Received the fenders yesterday evening for her.. unfortunately when my son opened the box for me to show me.. Both were damaged, dented and scratched pretty bad.. no packaging of any kind inside the box to protect them. so was metal to metal for shipping, contacted etrailer to see what they will do to fix it.. waiting to hear back from them..

Y'all keep pushing a long, and I will be back at it before we know it.. Camp on,, David
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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby clamlamp » Wed May 09, 2018 8:16 am

Staryder61 wrote:Small update,, for all our friends..

Raven is on hold again,, GHEEEESH :(
I started this in November 2017 and thought (OH WOW) can have it done by April 2018..
Did really good for the first few months,, then life and health got in the way. Continues to do so... :NC not certain what will happen next..

Last month was my back, had also found out I had plumbing problems with the veins in my legs :roll: .. well left leg was worked on yesterday (Monday).. at Austin Heart and Vein Center.. Let me tell you, they are amazing people there.. everyone was very upbeat yet professional. They did their best to help me stay calm through it all.. because I wasn't when I arrived..
Any way, one leg down :) .. recovery will not be real long, nothing for 2 days then couple weeks light duty.. then decide when to do the next leg.. :thinking:

As for the Raven,, she's waiting patiently.. Received the fenders yesterday evening for her.. unfortunately when my son opened the box for me to show me.. Both were damaged, dented and scratched pretty bad.. no packaging of any kind inside the box to protect them. so was metal to metal for shipping, contacted etrailer to see what they will do to fix it.. waiting to hear back from them..

Y'all keep pushing a long, and I will be back at it before we know it.. Camp on,, David
Take care of yourself first, I'm sure your family would prefer that. We will all be awaiting your updates

I had the same issue with my fenders from e trailer but they were good with the return. They should really fix their packaging though. Business wise, it's a major waste of money to ship and reship fenders.



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Re: Raven's Nest - Update 3/20/18

Postby Staryder61 » Tue May 15, 2018 7:03 am

Received the replacements for the damaged fenders from ET, they were packaged right this time for shipping, and came in great shape yesterday.. :D
So, couple more days for the leg to feel better, then back to work on the Raven..

Want to flare out the back end of the fenders,, :roll: 16ga metal,, thinking of trying heat to make it eaisier.. then a form and clamps to help with the bending..
Any opinions on doing so?? can it be done or not? :thinking:
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