Raven's Nest - Update 5/28/18

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby Staryder61 » Fri Nov 10, 2017 2:26 am

KC, aggie
Thanks for all the suggestions. That was the first drawing. :lol: I did say first, right? :? Since then have re-positioned the door lower, changed the width... let's just say it went through some major changes... :NC Took a break from doing any more changes. Checked out a lot more designs I have seen on here. tnttt has been a huge help to me.
I look forward to comments and suggestions. positive or negative.. I'm new to this.. That's why I'm here.
Asked myself days ago, WHAT AM I DOING? :roll: I'm a cabinet maker not a camper builder..
But it's something we want. And I'll get it. Just have to work through the things I don't know, and go on.
Thanks for all the help
David

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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby KCStudly » Fri Nov 10, 2017 11:06 am

No worries. We all were a newb at TD's when we started, too. Never trying to poke holes in anyone's design; always trying to share the wealth of knowledge that has all been learned by the great collective of great builders here. :thumbsup:

Staryder61 wrote:I'm a cabinet maker not a camper builder.

Same thing, really, isn't it? I mean, build a box, make it sturdy, make it look presentable, add some hardware, load it up and use it. :lol:
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Re: Raven's Nest- Build Journal update 11/10/17

Postby Staryder61 » Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:04 pm

Finally.....

getting started on the tear drop. After several delays for one reason or another..

The making of my Reusable Tear drop profile template: 11/6/17

Template for my project will need to be 4”-6” high X 11'-0'' long.

Now, how to get that? I wanted to share this as I make this one. Maybe it will help someone else. I have used this process before in several different applications. It works great.
Remember if you are making one of these like I am for future use. It doesn't have to be pretty. It has to be durable to use over and over if needed. When finished drill a couple holes in it and hang it on a wall out of the way somewhere. Always ready for the next teardrop.
Start with 2 sheets of 1/4” inch sande plywood. Can be luan, pine, sande. What ever fits your wallet.

Materials and tools used. Wood glue, box of wax paper. Utility knife. 1 ea roll of 1-7/8” x 150' white mesh joint tape with adhesive (found in sheetrock area of local box store), Plastic putty knives. The knives I chose came in a combo kit including 1 ea, 1.5”, 3” 5”. 2 ea wood clamps or C-clamps. I use a porter cable trim router with a 1/4” straight bit (no bearing).

Not having the use of a garage or workshop big enough to work. I set everything up on my carport. Using my teardrop trailer as a workbench. I laid a couple 3/4” sheets of plywood on the trailer for a work platform.

The first cut will be a 6”wide x 8' long strip off the edge of 1/4” sheet of ply. So I measured back from the edge 6” then added the measure ment from my router base to the out edge of the router bit. This measurement will very depending on your router and bit used.

Laying the other sheet of 1/4” ply on top of the one to be cut. I align the edge of it with the measurement marks. This is now my 8' straight edge. Clamp it down on both ends. Run the router base against the edge and make the cut. (Don't worry about the edge not being perfect for this process. It will help the glue hold better. (this is not a finished part to stain and finish).

6" strip next to panel where it will be glued..

151644

Unrolled approximate 8” length of wax paper and cut it. Raised up the edge of plywood to be glued and slid the wax paper under the edge halfway. (this keeps excess glue from going through the joint and gluing to board underneath).

Run a bead of glue on the edge of the 6” strip and lay the 6” strip on the wax paper, gluing edges together. Using the mesh tape, I gently apply pressure to the side of 6” strip with my leg to hold it against the other sheet (Caution: do not slide leg against edge, Can we say “Splinter”?). :shock:

I apply the tape sticky side down over the seam (note seam is centered under the tape) apply tape the full length. After I applied the tape, I used the 1-1/2” putty knife to smooth out the tape.

I run a healthy bead of glue on the visible wood seam. (as in picture).


151646151647

Spreading the glue with the 3” putty knife. Working the glue into the seam and mesh tape.


Careful not to apply too much pressure as to pull the tape loose. Just smooth it out good. I let glue sit till it ways longer). (clamp and let dry. Humidity in my area makes glue drying time always longer When it was tacky, applied two more lengths of mesh tape. Starting one with the edge of it in the center of the first strip. Then the other with the edge matching the strip before. Now I have one strip applied, with two more strips side beside over the first. Then apply glue as I did the first strip and smooth out with the 5” putty knife.
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Satisfied with the gluing I now cover with wax paper.

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Lay a 2” x 4” over the seam and weight down with a gallon of glue and water and 12 packs of cokes (They were handy) as in picture. I write the time next to the glue joint so I know when I finished the process. Had something else to do while it was drying. Can't rush the drying.

151650151651

Next morning 11/7/17

Up and ready to go, first cup of coffee gone and working on second.

Stepped out on carport. Wow, great news to start the morning with. All 12 packs of cokes still where I left them. Amazing.. with all the kids in this neighborhood. :lol:

Removed all weights and wax paper. Checked to see it was dry. :thumbsup: Looks good. :applause: (Knew the wax paper also delays drying time, takes longer for the air to get to the glue). Worth the time though. Remembering, this will last a long time for future use. Gently flipped over the panel and repeated the same process to this side.

Note: If you are joining two pieces of 1/4” ply together for a finished skin, you can use this same porcess to join the seams together. Just use the process on the back side not the front. You can sand it lightly after drying).
I use titebond II premium glue, for panels I plan on using outside. It's water resistant, interior or exterior glue, and it's water clean-up.

Coming next:

Adding the 1/4” x 3'-0" x 54” panel the the end of my template.

Good ole Texas weather hit us. Rain, wind and cold weather. So just when i thought everything would come to a halt. Not able to work on the carport. A friend came to my rescue and offered up his pole building behind his house. So this project has moved inside. Thankfully :thumbsup: :applause: :wine:
Last edited by Staryder61 on Sat Nov 11, 2017 12:31 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby Staryder61 » Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:14 pm

KC,
:lol: looking at it that way.. YES
The designing, laying it out and building it is what I enjoy. Have always been intrigued by tear drops and their compact design, and the fact, no 2 are alike.
It's the building it to travel down the highway at 60 plus mph, that had me concerned too..

So it's started. No more paper drawings.
Template comes first....

Time to do as y'all say "Make some saw dust and a mess".
Thanks for those watching out for me.... it's appreciated.... :thumbsup:
David

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Raven's Nest- Build Journal update 11/11/17

Postby Staryder61 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 1:35 am

Update: Reusable Tear drop profile template: 11/10/17

Thursday:

Now set-up in a friends building and able to work on tear out of the weather. Chilly!!
Fired the heater up. Everything ready.

Following the gluing instructions above...
Adding the 3' -0” x 54” is the same process as adding the 6” strip on the edge.

151641 151636 151637

For me I didn't have the trusty 12 pack cokes available this time for weight. So had to come up with a different way to hold everything together after gluing.

Texas inginuity kicked in after looking around the shop.

So I used what I found. 2 heavy duty extendable paint roller poles. Extended them to the beam across the ceiling and wedged them down against the board on the glue joint, Works for me....
:duh:

151635

After gluing and clamping the second side I left it to dry over night.
David

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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby tony.latham » Sat Nov 11, 2017 11:29 am

I'm intrigued by your use of drywall fiberglass tape to extend your plywood for your pattern. I'm going to have to play with that.

Obviously less labor than a scarf joint. :thumbsup:

Tony
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby Staryder61 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 1:37 pm

Tony,

Glad to see someone might get some use out of the post. :D I have used it for several different applications over the years.
From 1/4" display walls in jewelry stores. Just the back side, where you have a finished stained side showing.

To using it on 3/4" ply wood decks on pontoon boats. Seals the joints and makes it stronger. Only difference in the application is, I used water proof glue when applying on the wood decks.

Anywhere, I want a strong joint to last. :thumbsup:

And when it comes to water. To be sure to keep water from penetrating through the seam. Specially when working with plywood.
David

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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby tony.latham » Sat Nov 11, 2017 3:06 pm

Staryder61 wrote:Tony,

Glad to see someone might get some use out of the post. :D I have used it for several different applications over the years.
From 1/4" display walls in jewelry stores. Just the back side, where you have a finished stained side showing.

To using it on 3/4" ply wood decks on pontoon boats. Seals the joints and makes it stronger. Only difference in the application is, I used water proof glue when applying on the wood decks.

Anywhere, I want a strong joint to last. :thumbsup:

And when it comes to water. To be sure to keep water from penetrating through the seam. Specially when working with plywood.


I've got my test piece gluing near the fire. Quarter-inch ply. I'll be anxious to test it to failure tomorrow. :frightened:

Quick, fer sure.

Tony
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Raven's Nest- Build Journal update 11/11/17

Postby Staryder61 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 11:51 pm

Happy Veterans Day to all Brothers and Sisters....

Great day today, my youngest son (17) had some running around to do today. So we did his things. Then he decided to hang with me the rest of the day. :thumbsup: His first day off from school and work. He wanted to help with the tear drop... :applause:

He was a big help, we moved plywood. Went to HD, and HF. Toy stores as he calls them. :lol:

Then back to get things done. (Make a mess and some man glitter) -> Son's words.. :roll:

First he wanted to see the final template for the sides. So we stood them up. He said "Wow, that looks small".

151681 No it's not mobby dick 151680
It won't look like a whale when it's finished, it won't look like a whale when it's finished...... :shock: I'll just keep telling myself that....

Then on to cutting the 6" add on strips of 3/4" ply for the tear sides. Along with the 3' extensions for the ends.

151683 151684

Deciding the joints will be splined. So we routed the edges to be splined and glued.

151685

Who knew that yard sticks from HD would be just the right thickness for the splines?

151686

Having my son's help today was great. Mainly for the time we spent together and also the extra hands with all the plywood.
David

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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby tony.latham » Sun Nov 12, 2017 12:12 pm

tony.latham wrote:
Staryder61 wrote:Tony,

Glad to see someone might get some use out of the post. :D I have used it for several different applications over the years.
From 1/4" display walls in jewelry stores. Just the back side, where you have a finished stained side showing.

To using it on 3/4" ply wood decks on pontoon boats. Seals the joints and makes it stronger. Only difference in the application is, I used water proof glue when applying on the wood decks.

Anywhere, I want a strong joint to last. :thumbsup:

And when it comes to water. To be sure to keep water from penetrating through the seam. Specially when working with plywood.


I've got my test piece gluing near the fire. Quarter-inch ply. I'll be anxious to test it to failure tomorrow. :frightened:

Quick, fer sure.

Tony


The test piece was 4" x 8" and glued up with your method. In order to get it to fail, I had to put it in my vice and reef the heck out it.

Remarkable. No doubt this is the way to join plywood for a pattern. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the tip!

Tony
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby Staryder61 » Sun Nov 12, 2017 5:23 pm

The test piece was 4" x 8" and glued up with your method. In order to get it to fail, I had to put it in my vice and reef the heck out it.

Remarkable. No doubt this is the way to join plywood for a pattern. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the tip!

Tony



Tony.. Glad I could help... :D and that it worked for you. It can save you time with some joints... :thumbsup:

I've used it a lot over the years. Only had it fail one time. I do believe it was the glue I used. Think it had frozen in the garage, tossed it. Bought more, did joint same day and no problem.
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Build Journal Update 11/15/17

Postby Staryder61 » Wed Nov 15, 2017 4:39 pm

Back on the tear, :) the 1/4" template worked great. The first 3/4" side glued up and routed.

151717

Set up on trailer frame to visualize it better.

After some checking on the old boat trailer, found the old axle to be less than acceptable.

151721 151720

Only rated for about 900 lbs and the leaf springs weak on right side...

So now let's just redo the frame from ground up.. :roll:

Bought new axle, and hub assembly. To go with the new springs and hangers I bought before...

151722 151718 151719

Axle placed on frame to work out new measurements for placement.

If you are looking into buying or using an old frame. Check it out more than I did. And what modifications it might need. I believe I could have had one built for what it cost me to change this one

A lesson learned......... ;)
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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby KCStudly » Thu Nov 16, 2017 8:07 am

It might just be the perspective that your pictures were taken from, but to me it looks like your new axle's hub face is a fair bit away from the spring mounting point. One thing to look into is the axle manufacture's limitation on overhang (how far away the hub face can be from the spring centerline). There are limitations to this and it would be good to know what they are before going much further, just to be safe. If the maker's info is not available online it is probably worth a phone call. :thumbsup:

Looking at the comparison pics again it does look like the two axles are similar, so maybe less of a concern, just throwing it out there as a consideration. :D
KC
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Re: Raven's Nest- Build Journal Update 11/16/17

Postby Staryder61 » Thu Nov 16, 2017 5:15 pm

Looking at the comparison pics again it does look like the two axles are similar, so maybe less of a concern, just throwing it out there as a consideration. :D


KC.

throw those considerations at me.. :) I check here everyday to see if there is any information (Replys) that would be helpful to me. And keep me from making mistakes that someone else has learned from ;)

New axle is 2" shorter than the old one. So, I think we'll be good there..

New springs, hangers, and axle all bolted on and double checked all measurements. Wanted to take the time to bolt all together before welding anything.

6 1/2 hours later, I put the tape measure away and called it done for the night. Too tired to weld tonight. So will get an early start in the morning..

151729 151730

The hitch, will work great also..

Ready for this trailer to be done, so I can get back to wood... :twisted:
David

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Re: Raven's Nest- Tear Drop Build Journal

Postby Staryder61 » Wed Nov 22, 2017 12:29 pm

Everyone's been very helpful here.. Thank you.. :)

I have scrapped the boat trailer and having a frame fabricated for exactly what I need for this build.. Using everything I purchased to redo the boat trailer. :thumbsup: Lesson learned..
David

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