Build 4.5 by 8' using trailtop fiberglass Components

[saywhatthat]

.This why this style of building cannot be mess up.even if you made one side longer /shorter the cross bars get squared to the trailtop rails then get trim .Their two cross bars top and lower .I see so many trailers with just one 45 cut on the front . When ask why . to hard to frame more then one This way it just glue.and go IF you look at the top you can see a resets lip you square that to the Trailtop railing .Then trim any out of square at the point where the red meets the white This is why you can make as wide as you want.We all want a square trailer when work with wood it's a pain if out of square .Well things happen. With this build . you keep the infill tab square . Then you let what ever is wrong goes to the over lapin joints on the outside corner . Then you trim . Your eye can not pick it up. This way your in fill is cut square. If doing a woody Home depot will cut the wood for you . any bad places will be hid in the seam

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[saywhatthat]

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Had a few inquires. About the Cross tie in. So pictures. You need only to square the lips for. in fill. The infill needs to have the corners cut near a 45. To save shoulder of tabs look at pictures

[saywhatthat]

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Did the front on the fiberglass trailtop trailer . Wanted to break up large front panel .all infill panel go on the same .Under 2 hr trailer on it side stared by drilling a hole in each corner .Any comments Questions? All 3 panels installed .Dose not need to be fiberglass .The fiberglass trailtop kits that are being done in 20 hr. are so are using alubond board for infill. store bought doors
I have been getting trolled that all my pictures are photos shopped no their real. This was NOT invented in 2012 Infill building has been around for over a 1000 years. Fiberglass over 75 years. You are better to get them from a glass shop near you shipping cost. The outfit I get mine from has many profiles and yes the 7’’ one that matches a jeep tub. When they have made an over order they put up on trailtop.net are trailtop.org. Around $10.00 a running foot When gone they take down the web site. For the flat crosser overs and spacer profile with 5/8 lip those I have extra 550 feet hand layer. Will share

[saywhatthat]

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For off road . I think these windows are the best one moving part, light there called wiley windows

Getting off my .Starting some low cost doors need to do the windows first there wiley windows cover with smart man bedliner

[saywhatthat]

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rust-oulom oil base and sand. Smart man bed liner

[saywhatthat]

Sorry about not posting .Working and life .Even had a few think I was part of the con men that posted that they invent trailtop components in 2011 .At first they where fishing for $30.00 -$35 a foot . Most fiberglass shop will make any shape you want. Where I get my parts use 3D printers to make the tooling Have never seen over $12.00 US a running foot Same profile

Back to the door Same as you build with wood but going on a 100 year trailer
.Part one of 100 year trailer door .Started my low cost no rot /warp wiley window & door blank .cost $30 US. First thing fiberglass polyester resin DOES NOT EAT THE RIGHT HOME DEPOT FOAM! Anyone telling you different is uninformed .Stay away from any resin are gel=coat that has wax only foolest use it. The first thing find anything hard wax #2 apply gel-coat are 2 part polyester primer. #3 apply 2 layers 1.5oz mat then 7oz woven covered 1.5 oz. mat.#4 let cure #5 Cut window opening .I like to keep low in the door .Cold night air to flow over your face. Cut the right foam .Trim to one inch of edge .Trim edge of foam to 45 rounding top. Ruff up top and bottom of foam. #6 glue to outer skin let cure. #7 cover with 1.5 oz mat 7oz woven 1.5 oz mat . Merci pour la lecture outer skin and window

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[tony.latham]

DOES NOT EAT THE RIGHT HOME DEPOT FOAM!

Mike: Which foam doesn't it like to eat? I didn't realize polyester resin was such a picky eater.

Tony

[saywhatthat]

Most foams it will eat like a pig. Rmax Thermasheath Do not let the name scare you. same foam as can foam Great crack . Is what we use very rigid .From home depot you have to pull the paper off weak glue. Pull paper up and slice with car spreader for bondo . Then you need to ruff up to get glass to bite I like holes more . All so when using lay up resin are gel-coat no wax .If it stays tacky after a day cover with cheap car wax Easy to wipe off with isopropyl alcohol. When gluing like PL 3X PREMIUM .Picture is inside back door and air hose .

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[saywhatthat]

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A few props on the lower costing 100 year trailer door

You can make any shape.

In the first picture the foam is glue in. You can use scrap pieces filling gap with can foam .If you make the foam to short fill in with can foam When building a trailtop trailer just no way to mess up

picture #2 this wrong .You need to keep the outer edge flat

[saywhatthat]

Added in side fiberglass. to the $30.00 US door blank.The best part of doors like this. When cold you ass hits a warm door. No meat head trying to rip-off Alum.As this can last easily last over a 100 years. So don't have to worry about window parts

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[saywhatthat]

With this free style door . By all the time you spend finding crap to seal a wood door you be done. Can use any window are not.

[saywhatthat]

This is the fastest easiest way to build .But work great as the slowest way No wood to rot ,swell .warp .

Less than 15 minutes every two weeks for the last four months install all the small panels in back and top and built 3 doors.

The last front panel is left out to help get inside if pod is on it side. glass over foam 100 year glue and go trailer. Going for a raised panel look on this trailer

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[saywhatthat]

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The last step be for the hardest part. Not to bulge the outer skins.With the backfill with a softer foam .That what make this far superior to any way of building for longevity. Turns the whole trailer in on big bumper. Think of a mattress with many layers of foam .Hard Fiberglass Skelton frame with a bit of flex. Many free floating Skins with a lot flexible. Softer foam pushing on outer skin. Behind that high dense foam. Then inter fiberglass skin All fiberglass molded hand laid Not a thing to rot are rust in the pod.
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[saywhatthat]

this is what make this a 100+ year trailer .On the fiberglass / foam trailer the hardest part .As can be seen in the pictures The skins are very flexible . Over a two foot span they will not hold their own weight. Have prebound foam .

The backfill with great crack. Can have a great amount of pressure . So need be careful not to have waves in outer skin.

What I perform is lay out foam sheet one layer of fiberglass . After curing .I drill 1/4 inch vent relief / holes all over . When you think your done .Go drill 25% more.. Then drill holes that you can apply can foam everywhere

Now comes the hard part .Adding the backfill .PUTTING a very very small amount in each holes. Then even harder .NOT TO KNOCK the foamy bubbles off for 24 hr.

Then clean off all the foamy bubbles off. Don't worry if the vent relief holes are not full of foam .That means you did the job right

Cover one layer of fiberglass mat over the foam. Doing it very wet so it it will fill most of the vent /relief holes
Want the two density of foam to work as a shock. With the skeleton frame there a small gap. You Don't need to do this .I just want it nearly indestructible

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[saywhatthat]

Last panel installed, foamed and glassed insided

Started my .Your a cheap ass bedliner. I have never used on wood but fiberglass steel, Filon siding,aluminum .. If to you need to remove have to grind off and use heat gun. Plan in my 3 coats of clear after the first layer . To fog some silver paint from 5 feet away then two more coats of clear. I needed it to be cheap easy to repair from things I could receive from walmart. Cost to do whole trailer under $60.00 US

Been working about 15 minutes a week for a long time on this trailer Rust-oulm oil base paint & sandblasting media

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