Pop-up to vintage standy (bead board trim 2-12-19)

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Re: Convert pop-up to vintage standy (more framing 1-26-19)

Postby Kim Armstrong » Mon Jan 28, 2019 9:00 am

Following your build. Are you building it at a height you can store it in the garage or will it be kept outdoors when finished? Nice build!!!
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Re: Convert pop-up to vintage standy (more framing 1-26-19)

Postby les45 » Mon Jan 28, 2019 9:56 am

Kim Armstrong wrote:Following your build. Are you building it at a height you can store it in the garage or will it be kept outdoors when finished? Nice build!!!


No, I'll have to store it outside. I removed the axle and dropped it down on car dollies and dropped the ceiling and floor by 5" in order to keep it in the garage during construction. I may have to wait til I get it outside to install the ceiling fan it is so close.
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Re: Convert pop-up to vintage standy (more framing 1-26-19)

Postby swoody126 » Mon Jan 28, 2019 2:13 pm

would dropping it down on the bare hubs clear ?

no further than you woud have to move it is shouldn't damage anything

sw
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Re: Convert pop-up to vintage standy (more framing 1-26-19)

Postby les45 » Mon Jan 28, 2019 3:53 pm

swoody126 wrote:would dropping it down on the bare hubs clear ?

no further than you woud have to move it is shouldn't damage anything

sw


No, the bare hub would make it taller than it is now on the dollies. That's why I removed the axle. I'll be pulling it out of the garage in the spring or early summer (hopefully) so the weather should be good for doing some outside work if I have to install the fan outside.
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Re: Convert pop-up to vintage standy (running lights 1-30-19

Postby les45 » Wed Jan 30, 2019 6:57 pm

Completed wiring up the running lights today. When I built the previous project, I ran the running light harness through terminal blocks front and rear to facilitate the initial wiring and to make it easy to make future changes. This concept proved useful in my new project since I only had to take off of the terminal blocks with the new wiring. The old wiring front and rear was so different that I simply rewired both ends. All the clearance lights front and rear were raised up high as they were down low in the bottom shell in the previous project. The running lights at the rear were re-installed in essentially the same locations down low. Surprisingly, the 30 year old original lights are all still working so I decided to keep them for the vintage look.

I have lights!! Front clearance lights were moved up to just below the curved transition from the roof to the front wall.
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Rear clearance lights were also moved up high while the running lights and license plate light remained in essentially the same location down low.
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The wiring harness comes up through the floor from the tongue and into the terminal block on the right. The harness then exits the terminal block on the left and goes through a 10' conduit down the side wall to the rear terminal block. The front clearance light wiring is then piggybacked off the appropriate lugs on the terminal block.
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The main wiring harness from the conduit comes into the rear terminal block on the right and the rear clearance and running light connections are made on the left lugs. Both terminal blocks are easily accessible by removing a screwed in wall panel in the front and a lift out floor panel in the rear under the bed.
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Next steps are the rough in of the DC and AC wiring inside the cabin. The old AC and DC power systems are still in place so this work will be primarily running new DC wiring for lights and fan in the roof and relocating the outside AC receptacle. The existing AC receptacles inside remain essentially unchanged.
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Re: Pop-up to vintage standy (cabin lights 2-3-19)

Postby les45 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 3:37 pm

Today I finished up the rough in for the cabin lights and fan. The AC and DC electrical system was built for the previous project and remains the same with just some new DC wiring running to the interior lights and fan and the porch light. The cabin AC system consists of four inside receptacles and one outside receptacle which also remain the same. This work consisted mainly of running a two wire system from the panel board on the floor up to the ceiling and then drilling through the ends of the spars to run the two wires. I chose to splice each of the branches (forward light and fan) rather than run separate pairs. All the splices were soldered connections. For the porch light, I used an old 14 ga extension cord and ran it half way around the perimeter from the panel board to the light near the door. I only have one light in the side walls since they are only 3/4" thick and I didn't want to mess with hiding them. The one light is a reading light over the bed.

The existing AC/DC power panel consists of a small breaker box with four 15 amp AC mini breakers and a computer power supply making 14 amps of 12 volt DC. This is located under the left dinette seat. Note the temporary external AC wiring connection (wire nuts) used to power the system and to test the circuits.
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The overhead DC (two lights and fan) was a simple two wire run with 1/4" holes drilled through the ends of the doubled roof joists on one side. The branches to the front light and fan were spliced and soldered. I chose to run one pair like this to avoid drilling additional holes for three separate runs for each circuit.
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I need to point out this very handy tool that I found for drilling in tight quarters. My old right angle drill that I'd had for 20 years finally died and I had a hard time finding another one. I found this Dewalt right angle attachment that really works great. I drilled all the spars using this gadget.
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The overhead circuit terminated at the rear light. In this pic you can see the terminus and the branch running to the fan.
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I ran a separate circuit down the left wall for the reading light over the bed. I tried to stay consistent with a red and black (hot /ground) pairing on all my runs but I ran out of red and used black and white instead. This is just backward from the running lights which use white for ground but polarity is not an issue with a light bulb.
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I had my porch light down low on my previous project because of the pop-up nature and I really like that better than having it overhead so I decided to leave it in the same location for the new project. I used an old 14 ga extension cord for the circuit to this light. It just made for an easier and neater installation over running two separate wires over half way around the perimeter.
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Next up is the finishing woodwork on the inside. I plan to panel the upper portion of the interior with plain 5 mm primed plywood. I will re-use the existing bead board in the lower cabin areas and add a few pieces of bead board trim on each end near the top. I will build removable shelves on each end and possibly make some storage under the shelves in the area where the running light wiring is located. Also on the larger front shelf will be the bracket that holds the back end of the dinette table. Stay tuned................................
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Re: Pop-up to vintage standy (cabin lights 2-3-19)

Postby redbicycle » Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:55 pm

I have done that before. I had 7 bundles of wire from running trailer lights so I needed to use red and black electric take on the ends of my runs of rainbow wiring.


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Re: Pop-up to vintage standy (cabin lights 2-3-19)

Postby Projector » Tue Feb 05, 2019 1:53 pm

Great thread and build. Thx for sharing.
Make it so.
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Re: Pop-up to vintage standy (bead board trim 2-12-19)

Postby les45 » Tue Feb 12, 2019 2:10 pm

I decided to keep the bead board trim that I installed in the bottom shell of my previous project. However, I had removed nearly all of it to rebuild the bottom shell for the new retro shape including a complete rebuild of the rear framing and relocation of the door. This required some minor modification of about half of the bead board trim boards and I finally finished that today. I plan to keep the same color scheme also with the walls a light green and the ceiling white. I'll have some natural wood color in the dinette seats and the galley cabinet when they are re-installed later.

This is a view of the rear of the cabin with the queen bed platform. This work included re-wiring and re-installing the AC electrical outlet on the rear wall.
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A view of the forward half of the cabin. The hole on the left wall will be covered by the galley cabinet and the two holes in the front corners will be covered with the dinette seats. Note that I rebuilt the bottom of the door when I shortened it by 3" and installed bead board on the interior lower panel. It will get the same green paint when I paint the rest of the interior later.
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I made a lumber run to Lowes last week and bought the 5mm Revolution Plywood for trimming out the rest of the interior and exterior. I also plan to use this material for the exterior base for the metal skins and EPDM roof. I used it to make the portable wall panels on my previous project and it is some good stuff.
Next step is trimming out the upper half of the interior with the 5mm ply..........................
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Re: Pop-up to vintage standy (bead board trim 2-12-19)

Postby Nodrog » Tue Feb 12, 2019 5:17 pm

Hey Les! That's looking really good, the headroom looks good too. Esp. with the foot well. Should feel spacious inside. Will be great to see the trailer with the upper walls skinned! Keep it up, will be nice when done! Later, Nodrog
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