#4

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Re: #4

Postby Atomic77 » Wed May 22, 2019 5:35 pm

Looking good!

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Re: #4

Postby tony.latham » Wed May 22, 2019 6:36 pm

Tom&Shelly wrote:Nice! Do you put a coat of epoxy on the wood first before laying the glass?

Tom


There are two ways of doing it. Dry and wet.

I'm in the dry camp. And the problem with that method is that the wood sucks epoxy out of the glass so you need to make sure the cloth doesn't become starved.

The problem with the wet method is that the surface is so sticky it's a bugger to get the cloth flat.

You can tell if the glass is on the dry side by the feel of the squeegee vibrating over the weave and looking at the sheen. Once I had it all wetted out I went over it with another slather and made sure I didn't have any dry areas.

It's pretty simple. :thumbsup:

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Re: #4

Postby twisted lines » Thu May 23, 2019 4:22 pm

tony.latham wrote:
The removable coupler is more or less done.
Image

:thumbsup:


Tony


Found something I wish I had set mine up like your's so I could do this.
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Re: #4

Postby tony.latham » Thu May 23, 2019 7:02 pm

Found something I wish I had set mine up like your's so I could do this.


I like it. :thumbsup:

Tony
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Re: #4

Postby diefs_camp » Thu May 23, 2019 8:07 pm

Really nice looking build. With your 2” ceiling spar height on this one, are you still planning on gluing and butt screwing? I’m doing a similar build and was wondering if/how the spars could also be secured to the plywood skeleton walls.

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Re: #4

Postby Mr. Lahey » Thu May 23, 2019 9:26 pm

I have to ask.

Since this is serial #004 for you, what are you going to tweak or change in this one compared to past builds?
I know you've teardrop camped a plenty. So you must have a good system down pat.
Doing some things different this time in building it, or features it will have?

Looks great so far.
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Re: #4

Postby tony.latham » Thu May 23, 2019 9:30 pm

diefs_camp wrote:Really nice looking build. With your 2” ceiling spar height on this one, are you still planning on gluing and butt screwing? I’m doing a similar build and was wondering if/how the spars could also be secured to the plywood skeleton walls.

Aaron


Before the spars go on, I'll attach the pre-finished ceiling. The spars will go on top (pin nailed from below and glued) and will be screwed vertically into the skeleton. Blocking between the spars will help secure the spars.

Image

Image

On that second photo, I used 1/2" ply for the skeleton and had to butt screw the spars to the exterior skin. That was a little 4-wide. Obviously, I think 3/4" is the way to go.

:thumbsup: Capish?

Tony
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Re: #4

Postby diefs_camp » Thu May 23, 2019 10:12 pm

tony.latham wrote:
diefs_camp wrote:Really nice looking build. With your 2” ceiling spar height on this one, are you still planning on gluing and butt screwing? I’m doing a similar build and was wondering if/how the spars could also be secured to the plywood skeleton walls.

Aaron


Before the spars go on, I'll attach the pre-finished ceiling. The spars will go on top (pin nailed from below and glued) and will be screwed vertically into the skeleton. Blocking between the spars will help secure the spars.

Image

Image

On that second photo, I used 1/2" ply for the skeleton and had to butt screw the spars to the exterior skin. That was a little 4-wide. Obviously, I think 3/4" is the way to go.

:thumbsup: Capish?

Tony


Thanks. That's really helpful!
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Re: #4

Postby tony.latham » Sat May 25, 2019 3:25 pm

I've been working on the doors. Here's the layout:

Image

And the details for the door stop and seal:

Image

Image

That's Trim-Lok Trim Seal with Side Bulb. The bulb is 3/8". Trim-Lok says that it should be compressed between 25% and 50%. They say a fully compressed seal grossly shortens its life.

I was hoping to get away with a 1/4" spacer but need another 1/8" since the lip adds a 1/16" or so. But I think that gets me at about 30%.

:thinking:

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Re: #4

Postby KCStudly » Tue May 28, 2019 5:49 am

It's a good product, from what I can tell so far. Looks good. :thumbsup:
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Re: #4

Postby tony.latham » Wed May 29, 2019 8:52 am

I dithered on how to cut the hatch ends from the walls. I had two little crabby woodworkers sitting on my shoulders --each claiming they had the Holy Grail of Answers. One was urging me to use the jigsaw. The other little shat was yelling about a template and router. Sheeeeeesh.

Image

In the end, I used the jigsaw. I think one secret is making sure the scribed line is perfect. Keeping a jigsaw blade on a pencil line isn't hard if you don't get too rambunctious. Even in the curve, the cut stayed at nearly-90º. The trick --I think-- is to make sure you're not putting any side-pressure on the blade and going sloooooow. And of course, you need a good stiff blade.

Image

There was a little wobble or dip in the cut and I think it was mainly from my pencil line. I used a marking gauge that wanted to follow the grain, not the proper line where the scribe turned from going against the grain to parallel with the grain. I cleaned this up on the wall with the gentle touch from a belt sander. No need for that on the hatch end since the sheathing will smooth it out.

:thumbsup: :applause:

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Re: #4

Postby Atomic77 » Wed May 29, 2019 9:01 am

tony.latham wrote:I dithered on how to cut the hatch ends from the walls. I had two little crabby woodworkers sitting on my shoulders --each claiming they had the Holy Grail of Answers. One was urging me to use the jigsaw. The other little shat was yelling about a template and router. Sheeeeeesh.

Image

In the end, I used the jigsaw. I think one secret is making sure the scribed line is perfect. Keeping a jigsaw blade on a pencil line isn't hard if you don't get too rambunctious. Even in the curve, the cut stayed at nearly-90º. The trick --I think-- is to make sure you're not putting any side-pressure on the blade and going sloooooow. And of course, you need a good stiff blade.

Image

There was a little wobble or dip in the cut and I think it was mainly from my pencil line. I used a marking gauge that wanted to follow the grain, not the proper line where the scribe turned from going against the grain to parallel with the grain. I cleaned this up on the wall with the gentle touch from a belt sander. No need for that on the hatch end since the sheathing will smooth it out.

:applause:

Tony
Nice work Tony. I too considered the router/jig method a few times. But after considering the time and effort to set up the jig, I decided I could follow a line and be done.

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Re: #4

Postby Tom&Shelly » Wed May 29, 2019 9:54 am

tony.latham wrote:I dithered on how to cut the hatch ends from the walls. I had two little crabby woodworkers sitting on my shoulders --each claiming they had the Holy Grail of Answers. One was urging me to use the jigsaw. The other little shat was yelling about a template and router. Sheeeeeesh.

Tony


I think I know those demons! Glad it worked for you and you are happy with the results Tony!

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Re: #4

Postby Louisd75 » Sun Jun 02, 2019 10:15 pm

Hey Tony, I'm back on land. Are you done yet?

:R
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Re: #4

Postby tony.latham » Sun Jun 02, 2019 10:30 pm

Louisd75 wrote:Hey Tony, I'm back on land. Are you done yet?

:R


You know the answer. And I’m out of town for the week to boot.

When I get home I need to plumb in a sink and toilet in my wife’s studio.

Sound familiar?

T


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