Tiny Trailer Build

[NevadaBlue]

Thanks guys. The door has probably been as much work as the rest of the rig so far. But, like said, it will be worth it. My wife is going to help me with a color scheme when the rig is finished. I want to take advantage of those two ‘stripes’ below the door window. I think the top will be bright white and I’ve purchased the cinnamon color for the bottom so those two will be the main colors. Design will be fun.
Cold and snowing today and I’m still fighting a cold, so I’ll probably just sit and read today. Supposed to be warmer tomorrow, so maybe I can get that door casing at least critter proof.

[NevadaBlue]

Well, I suppose that this is the only Tiny Trailer with a 1920 REO door. (My best guess is that it is a late teen, early 20s REO part, any help on that ID would be appreciated).
So, it works! The frame is complete structurally. The latch works. It is cat proof, although not bug proof yet. I’ll be working inside now to strengthen the side wall and build cabinets and fill the missing ‘window’ areas left from the door installation.

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And, a view from the inside with the door closed.

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Yes, I’m having fun. I can now just turn the handle, step on the little step below the door and enter the trailer. That will make continued interior work MUCH easier. When I went out to take pics, it was about 40 degrees outside and 70 inside the trailer. No extra heat, no insulation and lots of holes left. This should make a fine little mobile ‘home’.

Lots more goodies arrived today, including the battery charger. Batteries (two group 24 gel cells) should arrive next week I hope. One plan includes a large solar panel on the roof as a ‘desert shade roof’ type thing. I have panels from 85 to 200 watts available. I’ll have to pick something appropriate for this tiny house.

[edgeau]

Just go the most watts you can! You will find a use for them.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[rjgimp]

So, it works! The frame is complete structurally. The latch works. It is cat proof, although not bug proof yet.

Cat proof is indeed important, but bug proof is FAR more importanter!

[NevadaBlue]

It WILL be bug proof. I even found a tiny bug zapper light for use at the galley.

[RJ Howell]

Your creativity is an inspiration!

[NevadaBlue]

Thank you!
My batteries arrived today, these will be installed (probably in the back, in the galley).

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That’s two 74 AH gel cells. I’m looking at the list of ‘stuff’ necessary to make it all work right. I found a really neat switch that will allow connecting one, both, the other or no batteries. Like that. I also think there will be a dedicated, switched 110 volt outlet in the electrical box to allow the battery charger/maintainer to be disconnected too.

[swoody126]

hey NB

¿ you mean one of these ?

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had one on the boat and have one on the firetruck

jam handy when wired properly to isolate one from the other for reserve

you can also wire a charging feature thru the trailer light plug to top the batts off while running down the road just like on a REAL RV

sw

[NevadaBlue]

Yep, that’s it. Good to know someone has used them. Looked perfect for my setup.

[swoody126]

NB,

if the knob doesn't have some kind of brail bump or wrinkle for the pointer(red on my pic) put something there that you can feel in the dark

trust me on this YOU WILL KNEAD IT

sw

[MickinOz]

Not having finished my own effort, I feel a bit funny offering unsolicited advice, but I will anyway.
I've lost count of the number of 'drops I've seen, on-line and in real life, that have the battery sitting in a space that is used for other storage as well.
If you do that, put it in a battery box. Even a commercially built item I saw recently had unprotected terminals.
Imagine what happens when a frying pan or the BBQ tongs bounce around and land on those terminals.
75 AH at 13.6 volts = 1 kilowatt hour of electricity when released slowly. When released in a microsecond due to a full short across the terminals, it equals a bomb.

Just sayin'

[NevadaBlue]

Thanks! I appreciate any input.
My plan is to put each battery into a box (the kind you use on a boat or whatever) and those boxes will be inside a wooden box in the base of the galley. That will have it’s own ventilation and will contain the charger and all the other associated stuff like the fuse block. I do plan to have terminal blocks scattered around the interior of the trailer to make wiring switches and lights and fans and such... easier.
The charger ‘may’ be mounted to the exterior of the box to make it easier to use for other purposes. The cutoff switch will probably be mounted on a panel that, again, is accessible from outside the battery box itself.
I’ve build some pretty complex solar installations for my own use in the past and hope I can maintain safety with these two little batteries. I still need to disassemble and move the old systems. One is a 4KW at 220 volt system. Pretty hefty. I stumbled onto the main inverter unit at a garage sale. Not sure what will become of it. Batteries are just too expensive for a ‘backup’ unit.

[MickinOz]

I see I'm "preaching to the converted" as they say. That's my plan, too. One of those plastic boxes you drop the battery in, and strap down the lid. Same as my boat had until very recently.
(New battery wouldn't fit, gotta do something about that.)

[NevadaBlue]

I took advantage of a good sunny day to get the door casing glued in place. It was 80 degrees in the trailer when I finished and still 75 a couple of hours later. Glue is good to go. It is 40 something outside, with about 6” of snow on the ground. Figured I needed to get this bit done.

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And a view of the little shelf above the door.

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The space at the front of the trailer, next to the bed will become a cabinet (the part in the corner) and the open area where the little table is will hold my ‘campaign’ desk. I modified the legs to be vertical and the thing will be held in place with a bracket so it is still removable for use outside.

The campaign desk is made from a wooden battery box from long ago, the lid is made from pallet boards and the legs are military surplus tent poles. Making them vertical will make it work in the trailer.

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[tony.latham]

It was 80 degrees in the trailer when I finished and still 75 a couple of hours later.

Sounds like nap time to me.

T