I'm starting this log on Day 37 as I wasn't aware of this neat little thread.
For those following for the first time here's a bit of a background:
We've been working on our build and are posting our progress on YouTube - Just for fun (not monetized). Our Goal - to build a lightweight low-voc mold resistant camper that's affordable. With my health issues hotels and regular campers are not an option - but just like everything else we've done - We'll build it ourselves. So we started the journey to build our little non-toxic camping pod that can slide on to a utility trailer, have a place to wash up (very important with health issues) and be light enough to be towed by our 4 cylinder CX5. Everything inside will need to run off solar as well.
For this trailer build we are challenged with finding materials that are lightweight, low voc and mold resistant here locally (Newfoundland). We initially wanted to purchase an aluminum trailer but budget didn't permit it - so we purchased a Stirling 5x10 galvanized trailer. The design we came up with will be similar to a truck camper in that the little camper pod will be able to be removed from the trailer - so we can upgrade in the future if needed.
We have to find low wattage appliances and have been researching unique solar solutions for appliances, hot water, toilets and the like. After much research and with limitations in material options living on an island, we decided that we would go with an exterior shell of ACM that can be bought locally at EM Plastics, ACM is Aluminum composite material with a polyethylene core layer and aluminum heat pressed on both or one sides, this product comes with a protective coating suitable for outdoor use, is flexible but strong enough that we can omit using plywood. We initially looked at fylon or coil stock aluminum but these option require a plywood base and we wanted to get away from using plywood if possible. They also require glues and the aluminum coil stock was unfinished so would require paint or a coating.
For the insulation we opted for SilveRboard is a rigid insulation board made from Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) covered with a layer of polypropylene reflective lamination on both sides - Foil backed EPS t's not prone to mold and will not hold moisture like batt insulation.
I'm leaning toward using the fiberglass reinforced polyester for the interior walls and ceilings but haven't tested it yet to see if I'm compatible, if not we will go with aluminum coilstock. For the cabinets we will use whatever leftover ACM we have unless we can find affordable Metal, PP or PE cabinetry.
The frame was constructed from standard spruce lumber.
For adhesives, sealants & caulks, I'm going with what I know works for me that is readily available, that's PL Premium Fast Grab which works as a great adhesive to almost any surface and meets LEED standards due to its low-VOC, toluene-free formula. In the past I've used Dap 100% pure silicone caulking without issue once it's fully cured but there are other caulking on the market now that may be better - so I'll have to try them out.
So that's the idea, things may evolve as we go but stay tuned we'll show you how it's coming along as we progress.
Day 37: VHB FAIL, Replacing Window Screws & Cabinet Rebuild - Building a Full Height Teardrop What a good hubby! He already built the cabinet - then re-built it - Then I had a better idea so he had to rebuild it again...
We hit a snag... Day 38: Troubles Begin With Aluminum Composite Curve - Building a Full Height Teardrop Camper Hubby starts something today that we thought would not be that complicated . . . We were wrong. This curve is going to cause a lot of grief.
Looks like you are trying to go from a flat to curved section, right? I asked a friend of mine with a sign shop who works with that type of material. When he needs a sharp bend, he uses a router with a "V" bit to cut through the aluminum on the just inside and most of the core. Then it will bend. Practice on some scraps first.
There is a limit to how much it can bend without the cuts. Have you tried to bend some scrap to see if it can make the front curve?
Pmullen503 wrote:Looks like you are trying to go from a flat to curved section, right? I asked a friend of mine with a sign shop who works with that type of material. When he needs a sharp bend, he uses a router with a "V" bit to cut through the aluminum on the just inside and most of the core. Then it will bend. Practice on some scraps first.
There is a limit to how much it can bend without the cuts. Have you tried to bend some scrap to see if it can make the front curve?
We're actually quite a bit ahead of the videos, We thought about kerf cuts it but I didn't want a visible bend to look like a squaredrop, if we took that route we would have needed to cut it at least every inch for the entire curve - in retrospect, we probably should have done this but being only 3mm thick it may have shown ridges rather than smooth. The other issue was we couldn't get larger material here on the island so we ended up with the two panels meeting on the curve...We rounded off the wood more to lessen the transition for the curve from flat to round, but boy was it a challenge getting the two panels to join with a waterproof and sturdy seal...Stay tuned - we managed it but if I were to do it again I would try to use material large enough for a seamless roof.
Last edited by Buddy-and-Missus on Tue Nov 07, 2023 8:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Day 40: Joining The Curve - Will It Work? - Building a Full Height Teardrop Camper
Busy busy busy. I do a show and tell of products that I picked up for the camper pod build . . . including the RV Roof Moulding . . . woo hoo. There is no substitute to talking to real people. We have a tentative plan to join the curved roof ACM . . . joining with 2” aluminum flat bar. But will it work?
Days 41-43: We Sure Screwed Things Up - Building a Full Height Teardrop Camper
More joining problems - Hubby bundled these three episodes as we try and figure out how to actually join the ACM. Lots of experimentation using different types of fasteners and lots of baby step successes. Some discouraging failures as well. However, we did finally figure out how to successfully join the ACM on the camper. He also went shopping and picked up some gear for the electrical, lots of various fasteners, a set of knee pads and the interior cladding for the camper.
Day 44: Bracing - Building a Full Height Teardrop Camper
After some success in securing the first row roof panels Hubby moves on to the third panel. He installs another roof truss in a creative way and picks up on something with the ACM that might cause him trouble later.
Day 45: Stress & Tight Spaces - Building a Full Height Teardrop Camper
In this video hubby shows one of his favorite tools in this project . . . it may surprise you. We get another sheet of ACM on the roof and I do some stress testing. And local corner stores may just have what you need.
Day 47: Roof Is Done! - Building a Full Height Teardrop Camper
We finally finish off the ACM for the roof. . . woo hoo. The finish line is getting closer for sheathing. Hubby also tackles the area around the front hatch and around the rear door. We're happy!!