5 x 8 benroy

[Simple_Abound]

The build has begun. I managed to cut everything correct so far. My goal is to make the galley as small as possible. The countertop will be 18" deep and 18" off the floor and 38" off the ground. There is a small lumber yard 45 minutes away that has baltic birch. I also didn't realize 3/4" foam board was going to be difficult to get, I'm considering just cutting 1 1/2 in half. I'm finding out being short is going to have it's advantages.

[edgeau]

One of the joys of building is you can make it suit your needs. Good luck and sing out if you need advice, there are lots of friendly and knowledgeable folk on the forum.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

[Simple_Abound]

After sleeping on how to seal the galley floor, I've come up with my solution. Instead of having the galley door meet the bottom of the floor, I'm going to extend the hatch 2 1/4" to extend beyond the galley door. It will require more work but I think it will be a better solution to keep the water and weather out. It will also make the galley 2 1/4" deeper. There is so much information on this site, it sure makes it easier to build with all of it.

[tony.latham]

nstead of having the galley door meet the bottom of the floor, I'm going to extend the hatch 2 1/4" to extend beyond the galley door.

The original Fredrick's style hatch–-as you may know--mated with the top of the floor and that's how I did it back in 2009. In cold, wet weather, the bottom of the hatch would sometimes freeze to the floor--it was a problem. Silicone spray "fixed" the freezing issue.



It works much better if the hatch seals to the end of the floor. The floor stays dry. (I still believe in sealing the floor with epoxy.)



Tony

[Tom&Shelly]

Tony had mentioned this about the time we were getting ready for our wall build. Quick redesign so the wall met the floor; later a hatch design that met the floor at the back, and no regrets after 3 years of camping in rain (and shine)!

Tom

[Simple_Abound]

Thank you for the picture . I think the hatches will work better, they seam to be a more constant fit to keep the weather out of the galley.

[tony.latham]

I think the hatches will work better...

Dust and waterproof with no spring-back if done correctly.



Tony

[Simple_Abound]

I'm taking advantage of the nice weather in Minnesota while I can. I wasn't lifting another full sheet of 3/4" plywood on the saw horses. I managed to get the outside walls and skeleton walls cut. The 3/4" plywood now weights about 20 pounds and plenty strong , there were listed at 66 pounds. They are plenty strong, definitely easier than using 1 x 4's. The doors are 32" x 26" and set back about 16" and 3" off the floor. I will be making my own doors. If I can get the side walls glued together this week I will be happy with the progress. Still need to get more plywood and insulation.

[Simple_Abound]

I've discovered that 3/4" foam board insulation is unobtainable in my area, unless I want to order 60 sheets. I have some leftover 1 1/2 from a previous build that I'm going to try to cut to size. It's going to be a mess but I don't like the idea of using polystyrene that's used for packaging.

[Tom&Shelly]

I've discovered that 3/4" foam board insulation is unobtainable in my area, unless I want to order 60 sheets. I have some leftover 1 1/2 from a previous build that I'm going to try to cut to size. It's going to be a mess but I don't like the idea of using polystyrene that's used for packaging.

We solved that problem by making a hot wire cutter with a 6 foot wand. https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=70278&start=15

Lots of Youtubes and other stuff on the web about making those, if you're interested. No foam dust!

Tom

[Simple_Abound]

I've discovered that 3/4" foam board insulation is unobtainable in my area, unless I want to order 60 sheets. I have some leftover 1 1/2 from a previous build that I'm going to try to cut to size. It's going to be a mess but I don't like the idea of using polystyrene that's used for packaging.

We solved that problem by making a hot wire cutter with a 6 foot wand. https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=70278&start=15

Lots of Youtubes and other stuff on the web about making those, if you're interested. No foam dust!

Tom

That looks like a fun project and definitely safer than the torch idea that went through my mind.

[Simple_Abound]

A little bit of progress at a time. The skeleton is now glued to the exterior walls, I don't skimp on glued. The walls now weigh 40 pounds a piece. I have not decided if I'm going use 1/4" or 1/8" for the interior walls. I will not be using luan, my first build has it and one wrong move and you have a nice conversation piece. Tomorrow I'm hoping to start on the floor.

[Simple_Abound]

More progress the last couple of days. The floor is complete, 1 x4's length sides 1 x 3's width sides. There's 1/4" bcx plywood on both the top and bottom. The inside 1/8" plywood has been cut with the holes pre drilled for screws and decorative washers. The template I made to show the skeleton came in handy for marking the holes. I'm hoping to get the 3rd coat of stain on the interior walls and then I can complete the skeleton walls.

[Simple_Abound]

The walls are put together. All that work putting those screws in to remove most for the door frame and cabinets.

[tony.latham]

The walls are put together.

What did you end up using for foam board?

Tony